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Opinion - CAM-C :15-17 or 18+ for base

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Like the title states, just trying to get others opinions, and reasons behind thier thoughts, on what year(s) you would feel would be a better platform to start with ?

Thanks all for any input
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EFI

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Not sure about the rules for that class, but if you're allowed to mod extensively then obviously a cheaper 15-17 EB with a ton of suspension mods will do better than almost anything else.

If you have to keep it close to stock and/or use OEM-like components, then you're going to do much better with a 2018 PP2 than anything else.
 

NightmareMoon

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18+ V8s have a little more power (and RPM limit is higher), but the gearing from the 18+ 6MT is slightly tall overall. (its like 15% taller, but your power only increased 6%). RPM increase from 7000 to 7500 too, which impacts your top speed in 2nd gear.

15-17 are still pretty strong, but the top speed in 2nd is right at 60mph or a couple mph lower if you're running short tires. So the torque from a 2015 is greater in 1st and 2nd gears. For a 2015, you really will need to get a tune to bump the RPM limit up to 7500 or 7800 or something. 60mph is tough, and with short tires, its less than that. The RPM limit is kind of mandatory IMHO.

So it depends if you need the ~74mph limit in 2nd gear or not to avoid shifting. Autox is supposed to be ~65 or less, so most of the time the '15 should have a torque advantage, but if you get a fast course, the '18 driver probably won't have to shift.

Then there is the ecoboost, which is ~100+ lbs lighter on the front end, which is another story entirely.
 

kz

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For CAM-C don't think that really matters that much - I'd say depending how much you're planning on investing on modifying it.

Nightmare above already discussed gearing - '18+ GT with 305/30R18 tires (which are really short compared to stock - almost 2" shorter) has just about the right gearing for any course.

Other things to consider - you can run E85 on '18+ GT on a stock fuel system, I think on 15-17 you need to replace injectors for that.

Magride cars (18+) come with some drive mode/suspension mode dependency and unless you replace the VDM and know what you're doing (or know someone that does), suspension isn't really adjustable other than swapping springs and bars.

Everything else is kind of the same (bushings, IRS, alignment adjustability) so it requires same parts to deal with.

If you plan on running close to stock size tires, 15-17 is a better choice as 18 has too tall 2nd gear, especially for local courses that slow you down significantly.
 

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'18+ GT with 305/30R18 tires
Can you deviate that much from stock in terms of wheel/tire width if he gets a base with 235 tires? I thought some of the rules stated that you can only go up +1" or so over stock?

Or is based on what's available for the overall car, since Mustangs can come stock with 305 tires even his base car can go to 305 also.
 

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kz

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Can you deviate that much from stock in terms of wheel/tire width if he gets a base with 235 tires? I thought some of the rules stated that you can only go up +1" or so over stock?

Or is based on what's available for the overall car, since Mustangs can come stock with 305 tires even his base car can go to 305 also.
Think of CAM-C rules as "everything unrestricted, 200TW tire". If it fits, it ships (runs). You can whatever wheel / tire you want if you can fit it.

in FS (street classes in general) you can go diameter +/- 1 inch, have to maintain stock width and be within +/-7mm of stock offset.
 

WItoTX

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For CAM-C don't think that really matters that much - I'd say depending how much you're planning on investing on modifying it.

Nightmare above already discussed gearing - '18+ GT with 305/30R18 tires (which are really short compared to stock - almost 2" shorter) has just about the right gearing for any course.

Other things to consider - you can run E85 on '18+ GT on a stock fuel system, I think on 15-17 you need to replace injectors for that.

Magride cars (18+) come with some drive mode/suspension mode dependency and unless you replace the VDM and know what you're doing (or know someone that does), suspension isn't really adjustable other than swapping springs and bars.

Everything else is kind of the same (bushings, IRS, alignment adjustability) so it requires same parts to deal with.

If you plan on running close to stock size tires, 15-17 is a better choice as 18 has too tall 2nd gear, especially for local courses that slow you down significantly.
And if you swap springs/change ride height, it requires a trip to the dealership to zero out ride height sensors. Or, a DSC, which like you said, and tons of free time and energy and good test roads nearby to learn suspension tuning, or know someone really good at it.
 
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Appreciate the feedback WitoTx
I'm planning on staying away from the magneride anyway......as you can get an 18 with a PP1 without it (as its optional and not standard) if I go that route.
I will say though that I was not aware that a flash/re-program was needed for that system, until you and NightmareMoon mentioned it.......makes sense, but since I'm avoiding that option, I hadn't researched that any further

Thanks again !
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