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Opg install, Whats all required?

jabrax

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Does anyone know the size ( length) of the mMR balancer install bolt? - I need to get a bolt, but california is at least 3 days away, hoping to pick up something local - The Procharger bolt is M12-1.5 X120, assume I need something a little longer
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jabrax

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The oil tube is cake. You just slip it down into the valve cover and I think there are tabs and notches you line up and then you turn it like a quarter turn and the little plastic tab will pop out into one of the notches and that is what keeps it in there. To release it take a small screw driver and pull that little plastic tab back and turn it back the other direction. Easy peasy.
I don't care what you say, it aint locking in :lol:. - goes in smooth facing down, turns easily then stops just about where it should be ready to click in.
 

db252

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Does anyone know the size ( length) of the mMR balancer install bolt? - I need to get a bolt, but california is at least 3 days away, hoping to pick up something local - The Procharger bolt is M12-1.5 X120, assume I need something a little longer
End to end it's 5.5 inches. The bolt that is.
 

jabrax

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dsp4848

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Have my MMR bolt sitting in the garage and took a picture. Looks to be about 137 mm long in total and 130 mm long minus the bolt head.
MMR Bolt.jpg
MMR Bolt 2.jpg
 

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Jakebiscamp

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Just finished all of this up. Gotta say, like everyone else, the oil pickup tube was a b! But instead of the shop rags underneath. Stuck a gallon size baggy under there in case the bolt dropped. Which worked well haha. But none the less, got it done! Thread was very helpful as was a couple member from our local group. Houston S550!
 

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So, I'm not sure if it was answered already, but is replacing the OPGS and crank gear just a "band-aid"? Should the harmonic balancer be replaced as well as that is the root cause of the failures of the OPGs and crank sprocket?
(I was always under the impression that revving the car to 7k or more is what causes the OPGs to break?)
Thanks! :)
 

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So, I'm not sure if it was answered already, but is replacing the OPGS and crank gear just a "band-aid"? Should the harmonic balancer be replaced as well as that is the root cause of the failures of the OPGs and crank sprocket?
(I was always under the impression that revving the car to 7k or more is what causes the OPGs to break?)
Thanks! :)
the ultimate protection is all 3

some do the balancer

if i had to guess #s

opg / sprocket only - 65%
balancer only - 10%
balancer / opg / sprocket - 25%
 

dsp4848

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So, I'm not sure if it was answered already, but is replacing the OPGS and crank gear just a "band-aid"? Should the harmonic balancer be replaced as well as that is the root cause of the failures of the OPGs and crank sprocket?
(I was always under the impression that revving the car to 7k or more is what causes the OPGs to break?)
Thanks! :)
I'm not aware of any complete answer as to what is the exact root cause, but it seems it's harmful harmonics and jerking of the crankshaft under higher RPM and/or higher HP applications than stock is what causes them to break. One could argue that the harmonic balancer is the true solution, but having seen at least one person on here with an aftermarket balancer break their stock OPGs says otherwise.

In my opinion, I think that replacing the OPGs and timing sprocket solves the problem. Using billet steel instead of powdered steel gets you to where you need to be for these cars regardless of the balancer used, whether stock or aftermarket. Sure the balancer won't hurt, but I'd say the balancer is more of the band aid than the gears/sprocket. Just my opinion, but I'm sure others will chime in as well.

It would be cool to see an extensive experiment done with all of this to determine what works better and to get to the bottom of all of it, but unfortunately that would take a lot of money and time to do.
 

CeleronXXX

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I decided to do all 3 just for peace of mind. I feel a lot better having the ATI on there on top of the billet gears
 

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Stage_3

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the ultimate protection is all 3
some do the balancer
if i had to guess #s
opg / sprocket only - 65%
balancer only - 10%
balancer / opg / sprocket - 25%
I'm not aware of any complete answer as to what is the exact root cause, but it seems it's harmful harmonics and jerking of the crankshaft under higher RPM and/or higher HP applications than stock is what causes them to break. One could argue that the harmonic balancer is the true solution, but having seen at least one person on here with an aftermarket balancer break their stock OPGs says otherwise.
In my opinion, I think that replacing the OPGs and timing sprocket solves the problem. Using billet steel instead of powdered steel gets you to where you need to be for these cars regardless of the balancer used, whether stock or aftermarket. Sure the balancer won't hurt, but I'd say the balancer is more of the band aid than the gears/sprocket. Just my opinion, but I'm sure others will chime in as well.
It would be cool to see an extensive experiment done with all of this to determine what works better and to get to the bottom of all of it, but unfortunately that would take a lot of money and time to do.
I decided to do all 3 just for peace of mind. I feel a lot better having the ATI on there on top of the billet gears
Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. :thumbsup:
I would do all three as well for that peace of mind.
 

Roh92cp

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I'm not aware of any complete answer as to what is the exact root cause, but it seems it's harmful harmonics and jerking of the crankshaft under higher RPM and/or higher HP applications than stock is what causes them to break. One could argue that the harmonic balancer is the true solution, but having seen at least one person on here with an aftermarket balancer break their stock OPGs says otherwise.

In my opinion, I think that replacing the OPGs and timing sprocket solves the problem. Using billet steel instead of powdered steel gets you to where you need to be for these cars regardless of the balancer used, whether stock or aftermarket. Sure the balancer won't hurt, but I'd say the balancer is more of the band aid than the gears/sprocket. Just my opinion, but I'm sure others will chime in as well.

It would be cool to see an extensive experiment done with all of this to determine what works better and to get to the bottom of all of it, but unfortunately that would take a lot of money and time to do.
Well said:thumbsup:
 

BrazukaV8

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I think opg and cg are the main ones that need to be replaced. I haven't heard of anyone breaking the aftermarket ones.
 

Jakebiscamp

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well, i only get to work on my car every now and then. so last night i was putting the AC belt on, got it on and was just turning the crank. When i realized a click noise about every two- four turns of the crank. Doesn't sound like a a valve or anything so after talking to a buddy of mine who has done this. I'm gonna take the front cover off tonight to see what this mysterious click noise is. Anyone have that happen to them yet? :frusty:
 

Jakebiscamp

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Here is the video of the click I was hearing. The top chain guide hit the tensioner when it compresses. Driver side of car. Any ideas why?
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