Roh92cp
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2015
- Threads
- 79
- Messages
- 2,896
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- Location
- Fort Kent Maine
- First Name
- Shawn
- Vehicle(s)
- OW GTPP Whipple
Nice pics db252. I also found that dam pass valve cover a pain.
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Thanks Shawn as well as for your wisdom. Taking out the battery and heat shielding made that side easier but as you know, it can be done without removing all that. If anyone else is so inclined, removing the k-brace can simplify some things as well but also not necessary and I ultimately didn't.Nice pics db252. I also found that dam pass valve cover a pain.
The rubber gaskets only need to be inspected for damage which there shouldn't be any. Seat the gaskets back in to the valve covers and wipe with a rag, no need to use a cleaner except in the spot where the gasket will contact the silicone sealant. Same goes for the timing cover. Acetone or brake clean will be fine to clean the block and head surface where the gaskets will seat. No problem if the gaskets have a light layer of oil on them either except again where the silicone will bond. Keep it simpleOkay, so here's another one.. so I take it instead of using the Ford cleaner and surface prep (I think that was suggested in the FSM) I can clean all the underside of the valve covers and head surface with some acetone or brake clean? Also seems like everyone is re using their gaskets, do you clean them off, if so what with?

Just put a rag under the connection off the fuel rail. Let the car sit for about an hour prior to disconnecting it.Okay how about a this one. Sorry nickel and diming the questions here. For releasing the fuel pressure did you pull a relay under the hood or disconnect the module under the rear seat? Thanks for all the info, much appreciated.
I never disconnected my fuel line therefore never released the fuel pressure. Never saw the need to before or after the process.
I never disconnected my fuel line therefore never released the fuel pressure. Never saw the need to before or after the process.
Yeah, I have to keep making sure I'm in the right thread, sorry about that. I'm doing the OPG/CG and a ProCharger install so I have to disconnect the fuel stuff.This is true if you are not doing anything other than opg/tg and all that jazz on the front of the motor, no need to do anything with the fuel system.
How long do you figure it took you to complete the process? It doesn't seem overly difficult, just very tedious in what has to come off.Ahhh, then yes you do. As long as you haven't started, disconnecting the electrical on the fuel pump and then starting the car till it stalls is an easy way to depressure.
My Whipple job took me 2 1/2 days if that's what your asking and that was not doing the opg/cg the first time.How long do you figure it took you to complete the process? It doesn't seem overly difficult, just very tedious in what has to come off.
I think I found it. so T30 bolts are 90 inch/lbs or 7.5 ft/lbs.What did you guys torque the T30 bolts on the back of oil pump to?