db252
Equinsu Ocha
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2016
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- Bay Area, CA
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- 16 GT Premium/PP/Nav
Good job. Pretty easy fix but nice if it can be avoided.
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Worst case scenario, I would have followed the engine re-assembly section. it details out how to position cams, etc. Now that I feel more comfortable with all this timing stuff, I think I'll go ahead and install the MMR tensioner mod. I have it, but after almost screwing up removing the timing chains in the right order, I was going to skip it. lol. Now it seems easy. Thanks for everybody's suggestions!Good job. Pretty easy fix but nice if it can be avoided.
Do yĂ´u have the instructions for removing the cam phasers? The short of it is, if you keep the cam gears and chain together when you slide them off you can just slide them back on in the same position. I marked the back of the phasers and cam before sliding them off to make it easy to line up when installing. Also make sure you hold the cams with a wrench when you go to loosen the bolts as not to move anything.Worst case scenario, I would have followed the engine re-assembly section. it details out how to position cams, etc. Now that I feel more comfortable with all this timing stuff, I think I'll go ahead and install the MMR tensioner mod. I have it, but after almost screwing up removing the timing chains in the right order, I was going to skip it. lol. Now it seems easy. Thanks for everybody's suggestions!
yeah, I have the full service manual. I was thinking same thing, just slide off assembly as whole and slide it right back on. Going to do it this evening.Do yĂ´u have the instructions for removing the cam phasers? The short of it is, if you keep the cam gears and chain together when you slide them off you can just slide them back on in the same position. I marked the back of the phasers and cam before sliding them off to make it easy to line up when installing. Also make sure you hold the cams with a wrench when you go to loosen the bolts as not to move anything.
Make some referrance marks on the cams and phasers for piece of mind. Good luck.yeah, I have the full service manual. I was thinking same thing, just slide off assembly as whole and slide it right back on. Going to do it this evening.
You can't torque the oil pickup tube bolts, just have to snug them up nicely. It can't be that critical other than you don't want them loose, lol, there is an o-ring that seals it. I curved my wrench just slightly and was able to get the drivers side bolt tightened. It took about 15 minutes maybe to tighten it though. You can't move it much so it's slow going. I stuffed a plastic bag down into the oil pan a little to catch it if I dropped it. I used a magnet pickup to hold onto the washer and got it started with my fingers then put the wrench under it.It's been a few days, I might as well ask a couple more questions.
How hard is it to torque the bolts holding the oil pickup tube? Seeing Rob's curved wrench makes me guess that getting a torque wrench in there is probably impossible. Once the bolts are started and most the way tightened, can you get a normal wrench on them for the final torque?
Secondly, my car is going to be down for a few days while I do it this, is there much of a concern or need/way to prime the pump and get oil throughout the engine prior to startup? Guessing I would take quite a few turns of the crank to really accomplish that, not even sure i could spin it fast enough. Is this worth doing?
Thanks again for all the help on this his topic!
I agree with you, it felt like wat too much pressure on aluminum threads. I did it anyway and nothing seemed to strip.What do you guys think about these torque to yield values on the front cover? Seems like overkill to torque to 18 ft/lbs then 60 degrees? It's a cover! When I turn them 60 degrees after torqueing, it seems like too much torque?? Especially since they are in aluminum. What do you guys think?