OPG FAILED last night, street car.

[F1scamp]

Bearings and surfaces of crank and rods. Any blueing is bad, any bearing transfer is bad. I doubt it ran long enough to make too much into the oil.

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[proj_vulpix]

jesus man.

 

[sigintel]

Consider TG along with OPG as the TG and OPG both get beaten on by torsional shock loading and if one received a beat down the other might not be in fantastic shape.

Relax, you got this. You might even have fun and if it works out you'll be so freakn psyched.
Everything drains back to the pan.
Buy a case of filters and lots of oil.
The idea is to get anything shaken loose to get caught in the filter media so that you can see what you got and to keep anything from circulating to where it might block oil passages. Small flakes in a journal may eventually get worn down to nothing and pass.

Keep in mind that by design most metal filings will end up back in the pan before they could be circulated anywhere else.

Get it back together and fire it back up to low rpm and let it run till warm.

Do not rev. You do NOT want to cause the built in spring bypass of the oil filter to open up as it might at higher RPM. This allows oil to bypass the filter media.

Shut back down and change oil and filter. Cut open filter.

Repeat until no flakes or sparkly sparkles or stripper glitter.

On second firing after up to temp, blip to 4k and immediately let idle for 5 minutes to filter out anything shook loose. Do a dozen brief blips followed by idling to collect crap in filter.

Change oil n filter and cut filter again.

Now repeat process where you are starting to load the engine on the road. Load engine briefly, not even a full pull thru a gear, and drive it easy for a minute to cycle crap into the filter.

Just work your way back up to ragging on it like you used to.

Worst case this doesnt work and you have to pull motor.
Best case you waste 2-6 $7 filters and some oil.

 

[samcrac]

Really not trying to start any crap here but I bet that Whipple blames it on the Romac. I really want to hear what Whipple does have to say though being that they always say that they've never seen/heard of a stock OPG breaking on their setups (to be fair, I'm referencing their setup using 100% their parts including tune).

OP it looks like you were using Whipple's Tune since I see flightcontrol in your signature; could you tell us what sort of pulley/boost you are using and what sort of power you were making? Thanks!

 

[smokinzx14r]

I have always used ATI dampers ..One way you can tell a damper is doing its job is when you remove it you will see spots on the crank shaft like it's trying to weld itself the crank shaft ..The reason it looks that way is because it is transferring Vibration and Heat from the crank into the balancer ..In other words it's doing its job .. ATI fit real tight for a reason .. You must use a good bolt also , ARP is the only bolt I would use ...Make damn sure you TQ it to spec ..

 

[Burnin4]

Sorry for your loss, I know how your feel, I took out a ringland in a split second with a bc mistake. I wouldn't waste much time trying to figure out what happened, get those heads pulled off and shipped to whoever is building your bottom end, have them clean disassembled//springs/surfaced/multi-angle valve job. A simple pistons/rods/bearings in a stock block/crank will handle big power, I went with a sleeved setup from MPR.

 

[whatsup62]

WOW....sorry to hear...i was on the fence but you have pushed me to get it done. Curious as to what wieght and brand oil you were running? Good luck on getting it back up and going.

 

[GSLSE20B]

WOW....sorry to hear...i was on the fence but you have pushed me to get it done. Curious as to what wieght and brand oil you were running? Good luck on getting it back up and going.

X2 on your oil spec

 

[Jay-rod427]

Spinning that hard rev limiter will shock the system and shatter opg's. Especially manual trans boosted. Prob gave out in first or second, but took till 4th for pressure to drop and idiot light to come on.

 

[Dennisn]

Sorry for your loss dude. Hope you get back on the road sooner than later.

 

[Roh92cp]

Sorry for your loss, I know how your feel, I took out a ringland in a split second with a bc mistake. I wouldn't waste much time trying to figure out what happened, get those heads pulled off and shipped to whoever is building your bottom end, have them clean disassembled//springs/surfaced/multi-angle valve job. A simple pistons/rods/bearings in a stock block/crank will handle big power, I went with a sleeved setup from MPR.

Bc mistake?

 

[Burnin4]

Bc mistake?

Boost controller. I thought I was on wastegate pressure but hit 17psi for a split second and took out a ring land.

 

[RockStang]

Sorry to hear man. I hope it works out Ok for you. I have a Whipple coming and after reading this I'll be ordering OPG and CG and doing the install with the Whipple. Sucks because part of the reason I went Whipple is there seemed to not be any of these stories.

 

[Roh92cp]

Sorry to hear man. I hope it works out Ok for you. I have a Whipple coming and after reading this I'll be ordering OPG and CG and doing the install with the Whipple. Sucks because part of the reason I went Whipple is there seemed to not be any of these stories.

Nothing like being number one right. I should get a gold medal for this:first:

 

[Will@Whipple]

So sorry to hear this, Seeing the No/Low Oil pressure light come on is one of the worst feeling's in the world. Knowing the RPM and Load you where at when you seen the light come on the damage is done, I hate to say. Even if only a little metal got into the oil the bearings them self heat up so incredibly fast with no oil flow at that RPM that the Bearing Tolerances are now way to tight if not already starting metal to metal contact.

To pinpoint the exact cause of the failure is going to be difficult but seeing the broken gears and how they broke can be a telling sign, can give us a idea if it's from a First Order or Second Order engine vibration or a just a Isolated case. Also knowing the Type and Weight of oil is very important.

The ATI vs Romac Damper is a whole different topic in itself but is also a huge Factor in this. Just for informational sake all of our Testing was done with a Stock Damper on the 6 Rib configuration and when Selecting a Damper for the 10 Rib kit we needed a Damper that exceeded the Stock Torsional dampening which the ATI did and did so very well compared to other's out there.

Bolt Torque is also Insanely Critical when talking about Damper's. If over tightened or under tightened can cause this exact failure. Now in no way shape or form am I trying to put blame on any one thing, just wanting to get some more information out there.

Again so sorry to hear this, I have been in your shoes before back in the 4.6L 2V and 4V days and hate even thinking about it. If you need help with anything please let us know.

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