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OPG FAILED last night, street car.

Reds197

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This gets small metal filings everywhere. They are in every bearing in the block and sometimes they make it to the cams. Hopefully your filter did its job!! To start drain the oil and look extremely close for metal filings in the oil. If you have even one that you find it most likely means its throughout the entire engine. If it were me I would have the entire thing torn down. A stock block is $2100ish with exchange. The billet gears are $500. Good Luck!! Hopefully the heads are ok because there is not a cam bearing.
 
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Roh92cp

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Def. pull the pan and check the bearings, will make pulling the oil pump off easier. If the bottom end is fine, chances are the top is as well.
Thanks it's what I was thinking should be done. What's the best at to check the rod and crank bearings, disasembling I imagine.
 
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Roh92cp

Roh92cp

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This gets small metal filings everywhere. They are in every bearing in the block and sometimes they make it to the cams. Hopefully your filter did its job!! To start drain the oil and look extremely close for metal filings in the oil. If you have even one that you find it most likely means its throughout the entire engine. If it were me I would have the entire thing torn down. A stock block is $2100ish with exchange. The billet gears are $500. Good Luck!! Hopefully the heads are ok because there is not a cam bearing.
Ok thanks for the advice, but how do the metal parts travel to all parts of the motor if the oil pump breaks? As soon as it breaks there is no pressure and no oil moving or being pumped out of the oil pump gear case right.
 

Reds197

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Depends on how it breaks. If you ran the bearings dry, they will usually drain oil into the pan along with the filings.
 

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i never try to oversell customers. i always leave it to them when ordering a power adder.

i always say "you don't have to, but if you have the $$ and means, it's not a bad idea"

i pushed our stock engine to the low 9s and never did break anything, actually cracked a cylinder wall due to block strenght, and never hurt a piston, rod, or opgs.

i tell guys i've had customers live years, and i've had customers live a month.
 

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This guy lost his motor not sure how long after he shut the car down after the oil pump gears let go.

[ame]
 

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Ok thanks for the advice, but how do the metal parts travel to all parts of the motor if the oil pump breaks? As soon as it breaks there is no pressure and no oil moving or being pumped out of the oil pump gear case right.
Depends on how it breaks. If you ran the bearings dry, they will usually drain oil into the pan along with the filings.
Brings back memories of that "cash for clunkers" thing that went down several years ago. Where they took a ton of the old cars and killed them all by draining the engine oil and running them till they seized up. Some of them ran for quite a long time with no oil. Course they weren't red lining them, but they had them revved up way past idle.

To the OP, I wish you the best.
 

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Tow it back home and save yourself some money. Shop might tell you motors trash when you just need to do the OPG.

If you got it turned off you are possibly OK. Just pull it into the garage and do the OPG and timing gear. Maybe timing chains too while open.
If the starter can crank the engine over its worth trying.

After the install, run it for a bit and then change the filter and cut the filter open and look for sparkles or flakes of case hardening in a bright light. grab a magnet yanked out of an old hard drive too. Post up pics.

Did this once with an NSX I tracked. Broke the OPG on the street at the top of 2nd gear when the engine was 'mostly' warmed up. Changed pump and was all good.

Everyone's crossing fingers for you.
 

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Sorry to hear this man. I am curious to hear what actually failed. I drive my car a few times a week and am not always going past 7k when I do, but I have a fair amount of redline pulls in the car myself. Curious what [MENTION=13288]Whipple SC[/MENTION] thinks here. My next mod is the ATI balancer. Good luck to you bud.
 

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Thanks it's what I was thinking should be done. What's the best at to check the rod and crank bearings, disasembling I imagine.
Pulling it apart is the only way. If there is any discoloration or material transfer it would be smart to pull it all the way down.

I have a car that i race in a class that limits the outward appearance to stock, including oil pan size and shape. When testing a new motor combo it was losing oil pressure at the top end of the track, turns out it was sucking the pan dry. Anyways it took a few tries to get the oiling controlled, and i checked the bearings often and it never hurt a bearing. I hope you get that lucky!
 

F1scamp

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Brings back memories of that "cash for clunkers" thing that went down several years ago. Where they took a ton of the old cars and killed them all by draining the engine oil and running them till they seized up. Some of them ran for quite a long time with no oil. Course they weren't red lining them, but they had them revved up way past idle.

To the OP, I wish you the best.

That was a ton of fun. There were quite a few really good cars that died for no good reason. Initially we were told they were going to be crushed, so we were basically demo derbying them before putting the liquid glass and seizing them... Junkyard was not too happy with us.
 
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Roh92cp

Roh92cp

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Pulling it apart is the only way. If there is any discoloration or material transfer it would be smart to pull it all the way down.

I have a car that i race in a class that limits the outward appearance to stock, including oil pan size and shape. When testing a new motor combo it was losing oil pressure at the top end of the track, turns out it was sucking the pan dry. Anyways it took a few tries to get the oiling controlled, and i checked the bearings often and it never hurt a bearing. I hope you get that lucky!
Do you mean discoloration and material transfer to the oil or the bearing surfaces?
 
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Roh92cp

Roh92cp

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Tow it back home and save yourself some money. Shop might tell you motors trash when you just need to do the OPG.

If you got it turned off you are possibly OK. Just pull it into the garage and do the OPG and timing gear. Maybe timing chains too while open.
If the starter can crank the engine over its worth trying.

After the install, run it for a bit and then change the filter and cut the filter open and look for sparkles or flakes of case hardening in a bright light. grab a magnet yanked out of an old hard drive too. Post up pics.

Did this once with an NSX I tracked. Broke the OPG on the street at the top of 2nd gear when the engine was 'mostly' warmed up. Changed pump and was all good.

Everyone's crossing fingers for you.
This sounds so hopeful and likely would be a miracle if it worked, but I was hoping this may be an option.
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