Ok… Question on bbk shorty headers

[Kingofhearts]

A Dyno graph of unknown origins doesn't prove anything. You yourself said a Dyno could be made to say anything.

The graph even showed you there's some trickery going on. The key at the bottom shows a date and time for the green graph and a red graph, yet there is no red graph.

only because I’ve seen that graph before I’ll chime in,

the graph posted is from that vmp mani shoot out. At that point in time of the screenshot they we’re just comparing the two.



I’ve been told this
“though they dismissed the mani, the numbers for ppl who never rev to 7k are appealing.”

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[Red65]

Even the dude who does the y tube vids from Lund likes the 17 gt manifold on a street car better than the 18 manifold. At least on a gen 2.

For street if you're just wanting the redlight-to-redlight acceleration, yea the Gen 2 intake is pretty good because it's very very close to the truck manifold. Gobs of torque. And there is something to be said for it's use in drag racing, especially 1/8th mile. However, if you decide to touch any type of large circuit tracks, the 2018/ported 2018/cobra jet will always have the upper hand. Personally, I feel like those intakes are a better match for what the coyote is: a relatively small ci engine with big heads and high rpm. For what it's worth, the cobra jet team designed the respective intake manifold specifically for drag racing. Granted, the N/A cobra jet drag car is actually built specifically for that type of racing (high stall converter, weight reduction, etc), so I think it's less of the truck/15-17 intake being better for drag racing period, and more of they can compensate for the rest of the car not being optimized for drag racing.

Quite honestly, if acceleration from a dig / low end torque is more of your thing, the 6.2l from chevy is a better option imo.

 

[K4fxd]

Quite honestly, if acceleration from a dig / low end torque is more of your thing, the 6.2l from chevy is a better option imo.

Yea, but you will never see me wearing a bow tie.

I had my first coyote in a truck so I know what kind of torque it is capable of.

I need my mustang to last, so I don't want to spin it past 6900 or so.

The MY 18 and newer truck manifold fits the bill for me. On the 1/4 mile it equals the 17 GT manifold and feels better around town with the shite 3.15 gear.

When I strip tested the truck manifold I first let the car shift at 6700 and it slowed down from the 17 mani. I then retuned for a 7000 RPM shift and it equaled the 17 in trap speed and ET. I was hoping the added torque would give a better ET but I had some trouble with the trans taking almost 1 second on the 1>2 shift.

 

[Kingofhearts]

Yea, but you will never see me wearing a bow tie.

I had my first coyote in a truck so I know what kind of torque it is capable of.

I need my mustang to last, so I don't want to spin it past 6900 or so.

The MY 18 and newer truck manifold fits the bill for me. On the 1/4 mile it equals the 17 GT manifold and feels better around town with the shite 3.15 gear.

When I strip tested the truck manifold I first let the car shift at 6700 and it slowed down from the 17 mani. I then retuned for a 7000 RPM shift and it equaled the 17 in trap speed and ET. I was hoping the added torque would give a better ET but I had some trouble with the trans taking almost 1 second on the 1>2 shift.

I think I followed one of your threads. So the benefits of the 18 truck mani just adds mor to down low. But ultimately just as fast as the 17 gt

 

[K4fxd]

Yes, it adds torque so makes driving on the freeway in 6th and cruising around town in 5th much more enjoyable.

Gives up nothing on top compared to a 17 gt manifold.

Roll from 60 to 120 the truck beats the GT manifold.


If I can find an 18 GT manifold I'll put it through the same tests.

 

[GT 550]

I wish it could be me to help out in this area, I’m not close to any dynos.

If you're in doubt it might be worth a drive to one if it saves you from spending coin on an exhaust for very little gain. If nothing else get them to run it, drop the exhaust from headers back (one cat will still be attached) and run it again. Then run it without rear mufflers. You'll soon see where and what the real restrictions are. I wager they're a lot less than you think particularly at the revs you generally operate at ie under 6.5k.

What diff ratio are you running? I'm wondering if the F150 18 manifold might be the best option and then if you want noise just replace the rear cans.

 

[Kingofhearts]

If you're in doubt it might be worth a drive to one if it saves you from spending coin on an exhaust for very little gain. If nothing else get them to run it, drop the exhaust from headers back (one cat will still be attached) and run it again. Then run it without rear mufflers. You'll soon see where and what the real restrictions are. I wager they're a lot less than you think particularly at the revs you generally operate at ie under 6.5k.

What diff ratio are you running? I'm wondering if the F150 18 manifold might be the best option and then if you want noise just replace the rear cans.

Dreaded 3.15s. And I hate it currently have the res magnaflow x pipe. Looking at the magnaflow competition series as from what I’m seeing they are not loud but definitely more deep bass tone.
And yeah I’ve probably never seen 7k rpm in the 6 years I’ve owned the vehicle. Maybe 6k on a highway pull to get on the highway.

 

[Basspro302]

If i had an auto 3:15 gear 6r80 and wanted to keep in NA first thing would be converter, e85, 355 or 373. The manifold would be last thing i change. Not running a coyote past 6500rpm is stupid, if you want “low end” buy a pd blower or another car.

 

[Kingofhearts]

If i had an auto 3:15 gear 6r80 and wanted to keep in NA first thing would be converter, e85, 355 or 373. The manifold would be last thing i change. Not running a coyote past 6500rpm is stupid, if you want “low end” buy a pd blower or another car.

Or or…. Keep the car I spent my money on and drive it how I see fit and mod it to what works for me. That option definitely seems less troublesome for you and me both. But definitely I appreciate your input.

the gear swap is definitely something I’ve looked into as well. 355s would be perfect, not sure how the 373s would do.

 

[K4fxd]

Not running a coyote past 6500rpm is stupid, if you want “low end” buy a pd blower or another car.

I tried the gt350 manifold and shifted at 7800 RPM. Yes it was faster but shifting at 7800 RPM is stupid on an engine I want to last 180K.

I've been hesitant to post these results but the truck manifold beat the GT350 manifold on a roll from 60 to 120 as long as I didn't down shift 1 gear lower for the 350 manifold.

I love it when people tell me how to use my stuff. I don't tell them how to use theirs.

 

[Kingofhearts]

I love it when people tell me how to use my stuff. I don't tell them how to use theirs.

it kinda comes with the forums, different personalities, different walks of life, of course egos and figuring oneopinion is better than the other. Man it’s life lol, I just maneuver around it and keep going.

 

[K4fxd]

it kinda comes with the forums,

I think outside the box so I get flamed pretty often.

 

[Kingofhearts]

I think outside the box so I get flamed pretty often.

now that’s definitely life!

 

[WildHorse]

Well all I can say:
Last year 3.31 gears & 17 GT intake manifold with IMRC
This year 3.73 gears & 18+ GT intake manifold without IMRC
The latter absolutely destroys the former everywhere in the RPM range.

 

[Kingofhearts]

Well all I can say:
Last year 3.31 gears & 17 GT intake manifold with IMRC
This year 3.73 gears & 18+ GT intake manifold without IMRC
The latter absolutely destroys the former everywhere in the RPM range.

Ive heard 373s are so much fun. But I hear they are not as good on the highway?

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