Oiled or dry air filter

[Terminator2]

In our testing on a Intake/tuned coyote, the dry filters are worth a consistent 1% (3-4whp on a 400whp car) over the oiled when they are brand new out of the box.

Downside of the dry is you can't really "clean" them, you can blow them out but really they need replaced about every 15-20k miles.

We tested on a employees 2014 Auto GT.

That's odd because often times oiled filters flow a bit more than dry filters. Also they tend to hold more dirt than dry filters. AFE oiled vs dry and S&B oiled vs dry.

Sponsored

 

[Vinny@JLTPerformance]

Here's another video with us testing where we swapped to a dry filter mid runs, truck was shut off long enough to swap the filter. 2015 F150 5.0.

Both filters were brand new.

No tune required intake (They have no MAF sensor)

[ame]

 

[BlownStang15]

My MAFs (911 turbo) oiled up with a brand new filter after a couple of hundred miles. Fouled three sets of plugs running lean before we found out what was wrong. I won't go there again.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

What about them letting dirt into your cylinders? That was kind of the reason I started this thread. Curious if people with sports cars and Ford V8s are as concerned as the truck guys with Cummins engines?

Finally someone who's asking the right question. Everyone obsesses over oiled vs dry and MAF sensors getting fouled, but no one seems to be concerned at how well drop in filters actually filter. If you do some research you'll find K&N filters just aren't good at filtering. One study I read showed they're actually the worst performing aftermarket filter on the market in terms of stopping dirt.

Bottom line is that the OEM filter is going to do the best job of filtering. But if you want something that performs a little better go with a quality dry filter like AEM.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/debunking-the-k-n-myth-why-oem-is-better-t180100.html

Sponsored