G RUSH
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Bernborough
Well-Known Member
Hey G Rush! I'm not sure about the check valve that you are referring to. The only valve that I am aware of in the PCV circuit is the PCV Valve located in the top of the r/h rocker box (the outlet from the engine). The PCV valve generally only regulates flow - the only time it should close is if air tries to travel back into the engine crankcase from the inlet manifold (backfire). The catch can should not need an additional check valve. I'm not sure about the UPR catch can - I have the Ford Performance one. It definitely does not have any check valves. Is the UPR product different?
steerage250
Well-Known Member
This is probably heresy for this thread - but is the catch-can a solution looking for a problem? My internet research from un-biased sources (ie not those selling catch-cans), suggests that there isn't a problem with multi-port injected engines. It suggested that they are worthwhile for direct injection engines because the oil vapours can build-up on the back of the inlet valves. However, the fuel washing past the valves on multi-port injected engines washes any oil off.
Engines have been re-burning crankcase fumes for decades - why is it a problem for this engine ?
Engines have been re-burning crankcase fumes for decades - why is it a problem for this engine ?
jank
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Engineering Explained did a vid on oil catch cans today, worth a watch: [ame]
FPV GT
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Too true.
However, as todays engines are being run leaner, their is a greater potential for a change in the stoichiometric mix.
Pre dentonation is real danger with the increased carbon build up on the piston tops.
In the ole days a lot of modders ran pcv straight to air, and these issues did not present.
I can only go on my experience and what I have seen. The modular motors are very oily breathers.
I cant remember the post number but I posted a picture that speaks a thousand words. It shows the plenum removed with the visble runners. There is a sunstantial amount of oil sitting around the base.
At the very least, this oil will with hold some amount of heat, contributing to increased iat. Tho this may be only minor, if you add up the benefits that a catch can / oil seperator provides......it is all positive
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BroncosXR8
Well-Known Member
Ok so checked it again this morning and after a run up Putty road and back... not a drop.
I blew through it today and there doesnt seem to be any valve opening or closing.
There are two pipes/taps, let's call them A and B, because for some completely unfathomable reason UPR don't mark them.
Tap A is the one that goes through to the middle of the device and drains into the can.
Tap B is the one that collects air from the inside perimeter of the can, drags it up through the mesh/gauze, hopefully trapping the oil in the bottom of the can and out through the tap.
At least this is the way I think it works.
I have Tap A connected to the head, and Tap B connected to the manifold.
No obvious leaks or loss if pressure that I can detect.
Tap B has the end of the pipe marked with some kind of paint/marker, which I originally thought meant it should go in the 'dirty' side, ie the head.
Can someone please tell me if I've got this all wrong? :frusty:
After 12,000km my engines probably coated in oil by now anyway.
I blew through it today and there doesnt seem to be any valve opening or closing.
There are two pipes/taps, let's call them A and B, because for some completely unfathomable reason UPR don't mark them.
Tap A is the one that goes through to the middle of the device and drains into the can.
Tap B is the one that collects air from the inside perimeter of the can, drags it up through the mesh/gauze, hopefully trapping the oil in the bottom of the can and out through the tap.
At least this is the way I think it works.
I have Tap A connected to the head, and Tap B connected to the manifold.
No obvious leaks or loss if pressure that I can detect.
Tap B has the end of the pipe marked with some kind of paint/marker, which I originally thought meant it should go in the 'dirty' side, ie the head.
Can someone please tell me if I've got this all wrong? :frusty:
After 12,000km my engines probably coated in oil by now anyway.
Kaps
Mustang maniac
Standing at the front of the car, the hose coming out from the left side of Manifold cover, is the one with oil.
Did you notice any oil in that hose?
If you blow in this hose with other end connected to CAN, there should be air coming out of other end of the CAN and there is no valve.
The hose coming out of the CAN and connecting under the Manifold cover in the middle/top should carry the clean air.
Was that clean?
If you blow in this hose from the end that goes in manifold it should be blocked. But if you blow in this hose from the end that connects to the CAN, it should open.
My UPR CAN is the one that mounts near the radiator so the connection are different otherwise I would have confirmed the connection too.
Did you notice any oil in that hose?
If you blow in this hose with other end connected to CAN, there should be air coming out of other end of the CAN and there is no valve.
The hose coming out of the CAN and connecting under the Manifold cover in the middle/top should carry the clean air.
Was that clean?
If you blow in this hose from the end that goes in manifold it should be blocked. But if you blow in this hose from the end that connects to the CAN, it should open.
My UPR CAN is the one that mounts near the radiator so the connection are different otherwise I would have confirmed the connection too.
BroncosXR8
Well-Known Member
I can only imagine you mean at the top of the can between the taps if looking into it, the C you mention is the 'empty' space.
This issue is seriously driving me batty, I consider myself pretty confident with mechanicals and technical issues and this just keeps stumping me.
I've done a very quick paint drawing to show how I have it installed, it sounds the opposite to what your saying G RUSH.
Can you guys please let me knwo where I'm going wrong. 5,000km and not a drop of oil collected:frusty:
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G RUSH
Well-Known Member
Just noticed your filter body section is different to the ones a number of us have ordered. I'd be going back to UPR...
When did you purchase yours?
This is what I have (pic courtesy of tantash):
When did you purchase yours?
This is what I have (pic courtesy of tantash):
Mustang-GT
Well-Known Member
Just received mine and it looks like this too. It should be just a matter of connecting those two ends as is while facing the engine bay right?Just noticed your filter body section is different to the ones a number of us have ordered. I'd be going back to UPR...
When did you purchase yours?
This is what I have (pic courtesy of tantash):
tantash
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Attaches like this . . .
MM Pony GT
MM Pony GT
Collected around 18-19mls of dark brown oil after 2,500km.
To clarify, installed it with 2,500km on the car and emptied it at 5,000.
Wish I had it on the car sooner.
On a related note, the car is now telling me that I need to change oil soon, at just 5,000km.!!!
To clarify, installed it with 2,500km on the car and emptied it at 5,000.
Wish I had it on the car sooner.
On a related note, the car is now telling me that I need to change oil soon, at just 5,000km.!!!
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