Oil pan replacement, tips or suggestions

[SVO MkII]

I damaged my oil pan and need to replace it (2018, 6spd man). The factory shop manual describes dropping the entire K member out of the car first. I saw a post on another forum describing a process where the engine/tranny is jacked up a bit (1/2-3/4"), and the K member is lowered a bit (about the same). It doesn't look like it's going to be easy to get to the bottom of the block (to clean off the old RTV sealant) with the K member in place. But dropping the entire K member is also not easy.

I'm looking for any tips or suggestions I can get. This has turned into a real PITA.

Thanks.

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[Coyote Chase]

The other Ecoboost Mustang forum has member who changed his connected rods and pistons, without removing his engine block or crankshaft. I don't remember his user name, but you may be able to find his post, using the search option.

 

[SVO MkII]

The other Ecoboost Mustang forum has member who changed his connected rods and pistons, without removing his engine block or crankshaft. I don't remember his user name, but you may be able to find his post, using the search option.

I'm about 99% sure you'd need to drop the K member to replace rods and pistons. I did rod bearings on a 944 Turbo many years ago, with the motor in the car. I had to drop the engine cradle crossmember to do it.

 

[TeeLew]

First, I'd get one of Jesse Ringley's windage trays to put in the new pan. That should really help the oil sloshing around. Second, I'd look at a BMR or Steeda K-member. If you're going to drop the damn thing, you might as well replace it with something better.

There might be a ways to change the pan without moving the sub-frame, but it will probably turn out to be more of a PITA than just doing it.

 

[SVO MkII]

After much thought, I think I'm going to simply repair the pan on the car. The issue is a small pin hole on the bottom corner, from a braided oil line rubbing against it. Looking around at the current pan seal, it is bone dry. I'm really concerned that if I try replacing the pan without removing the K member, it will wind up leaking. I may as well give JB Weld a shot. If it doesn't work, I'm no worse off. Fingers crossed!

 

[TeeLew]

I'd drain the oil and make sure there is no oil seeping through the hole. Any oil on the surface is going to stop the epoxy from sticking, so it has to be perfectly clean. I'd also use a Scotchbrite disc to rough the cast surface finish up all around the hole so the epoxy has virgin material to bond. Last, I'd use Hysol instead of JB. It will be more expensive, but it's good stuff and probably stronger than the rest of the pan.

 

[SVO MkII]

I'd drain the oil and make sure there is no oil seeping through the hole. Any oil on the surface is going to stop the epoxy from sticking, so it has to be perfectly clean. I'd also use a Scotchbrite disc to rough the cast surface finish up all around the hole so the epoxy has virgin material to bond. Last, I'd use Hysol instead of JB. It will be more expensive, but it's good stuff and probably stronger than the rest of the pan.

Fortunately, all the oil drained out on my garage floor a week ago (beautiful!).

Yeah, I'll clean it up well. I recall using JB Weld on a 944 Turbo block many years ago, just can't remember exactly what for. Apparently it's still holding. They make this high heat version now. I'll give it try.

 

[Cobra Jet]

The JB might work - or any product similar as long as the surface is completely clean of oil or oil residue.

Before pulling the pan, if all else fails there's always:

But aside from the sarcasm - there is this post from another M6G member who included instructions for removing the balance shaft - which includes details for removing the oil pan too:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/oil-pan-removal-installation-instructions-for-bsd.90189/

 

[SVO MkII]

The JB might work - or any product similar as long as the surface is completely clean of oil or oil residue.

Before pulling the pan, if all else fails there's always:

But aside from the sarcasm - there is this post from another M6G member who included instructions for removing the balance shaft - which includes details for removing the oil pan too:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/oil-pan-removal-installation-instructions-for-bsd.90189/

Yes, I saw this post, where he shares the factory shop manual instructions, which is removing the entire K member and unhooking a bunch of crap on the motor. This is what I'm I'm trying to avoid.

 

[Johnnybee]

Where exactly is this? Just wanting to know so that at my next oil change I can check to make sure said oil line is not sawing its way through my oil pan.

 

[SVO MkII]

Where exactly is this? Just wanting to know so that at my next oil change I can check to make sure said oil line is not sawing its way through my oil pan.

Aftermarket (Mishimoto) oil cooler. Long story, but I moved the cooler from the intended location (center of grill opening) to lower driver side location. This created slack in the lines, eventually allowing the (braided stainless) line to shift enough to make contact with a bottom corner of the oil pan. It worked like a file, grinding through the aluminum. You have nothing to worry about

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

If the JB doesn’t seal it you can get the pan off as you describe. I did a BSD that way. The engine will go up about an inch or maybe even a bit more before the HPFP kisses the firewall. Drop the k member to the end of the bolts and you can get the pan off. Cleaning the block sucks and the stress of getting the new pan in without compromising the rtv is worse imo. If you end up needing to do it put extra rtv on the block where the plate that holds the rear main seal bolts to the block. The sealing surface there is very small and is easy to not get a good seal.

 

[SVO MkII]

So far, so good. No leaks.

 

[Cobra Jet]

So far, so good. No leaks.

What was your ”fix”?

 

[SVO MkII]

What was your ”fix”?

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