PKs
PK's
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2016
- Threads
- 25
- Messages
- 1,345
- Reaction score
- 1,593
- Location
- Gold Coast, Australia
- First Name
- Peter
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 GT Fastback
What a dick.
Sponsored
Sponsored
hackney
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2019
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 132
- Reaction score
- 142
- Location
- Yass Valley,NSW.
- First Name
- Ron
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 GT Mustang(race red) 2019 Honda CR-V VTI AWD.
Sorry,mine is a 6R80(ZF) anything you would like to be negative about?
65muzzy
Member
Finally got it installed at tune house. Called them and they knew exactly what was required unlike many of the other shops which were asking me to call harrop to see if it’s a straight instal and also couldn’t give me a fixed price.
Sponsored
NZ GT mustang
Member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2020
- Threads
- 0
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 7
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
- First Name
- Andy
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Gt Mustang Fastback MT, Deep Impact Blue
An update on the new engine. The car had the stage 2 tune when we bought it.
1) We have now done 4800 km on the new engine and it used one dipstick of oil (high - low level). The Ford services Manager said the rings have not bedded in
(I think that is a load of shit)
The guy that did the original tune said some of hem never stop using oil. The original engine never used oil. Any advice?
2) Fuel consumption. On the original engine we used to get 8.8 L/100 in 6th gear 110km/h on the flat. Now the same conditions, we can't get bellow 13L/100 4800 km on the new engine Any advice?
1) We have now done 4800 km on the new engine and it used one dipstick of oil (high - low level). The Ford services Manager said the rings have not bedded in
(I think that is a load of shit)
The guy that did the original tune said some of hem never stop using oil. The original engine never used oil. Any advice?
2) Fuel consumption. On the original engine we used to get 8.8 L/100 in 6th gear 110km/h on the flat. Now the same conditions, we can't get bellow 13L/100 4800 km on the new engine Any advice?
GT 550
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #623
G'day Andy that's disappointing. You could check the engine number to make sure it is indeed a new engine, Ford should be able to confirm - albeit after possibly talking to some clowns - that it was a crate engine vs one that was fitted to a car. It's highly unlikely to be other than a crate job but you never know.
The oil consumption does seem high, you could give it another 1k km and see but the whole rings bedding in thing sounds like a crock, these engines are known for being gtg off the floor. It's probably worth doing a search on here to see if others have reported similar.
Increased fuel consumption is a bit trickier, it's normal for a new engine to be tight but not to that extent, mine was around 9.5 country on the day I got it and hasn't changed. I'm wondering if they left the AFM connection or other off when they refitted it. How does it drive?
Who put the tune on there, by stage 2 do you mean Ford PP2?
The oil consumption does seem high, you could give it another 1k km and see but the whole rings bedding in thing sounds like a crock, these engines are known for being gtg off the floor. It's probably worth doing a search on here to see if others have reported similar.
Increased fuel consumption is a bit trickier, it's normal for a new engine to be tight but not to that extent, mine was around 9.5 country on the day I got it and hasn't changed. I'm wondering if they left the AFM connection or other off when they refitted it. How does it drive?
Who put the tune on there, by stage 2 do you mean Ford PP2?
FM GT
Active Member
Just a heads up, I got an email from Harrop regarding their Oil Cooler installation. Apparently some things need fixing so that's fun.
EDIT: Just to clarify in case you have the cooler installed and haven't received an email.
There's a chance one of the hoses will rub so they're recommending drilling a few holes in a support bracket to tie additional zip-ties and bending the end pieces of the bracket away from the hose as to remove the chance of the hose rubbing. Unfortunately for me, I don't have a lift/jackstands etc. So I have to figure out a way of doing it rather than asking a shop and paying them $100+ for an hour of labour.
EDIT: Just to clarify in case you have the cooler installed and haven't received an email.
There's a chance one of the hoses will rub so they're recommending drilling a few holes in a support bracket to tie additional zip-ties and bending the end pieces of the bracket away from the hose as to remove the chance of the hose rubbing. Unfortunately for me, I don't have a lift/jackstands etc. So I have to figure out a way of doing it rather than asking a shop and paying them $100+ for an hour of labour.
Last edited:
GT 550
Well-Known Member
Sponsored
65muzzy
Member
If harrop are sending this email they are admitting the fact that there is a problem with the original instal. They should be liable for the repair or adjustment. Interesting to see what the outcome is.
FM GT
Active Member
Harrop replied to my email and said they will not be covering the cost of the labour involved. They will only cover provided the oil line failed. Basically, suck it up and fix it yourself.
Here's what was instructed. The image sucks and you can't tell what is where unless you know what you're looking at or have seen the lines yourself.
I have use hackney's image and edited it to provide a better idea of what's going on. This is all under the front underbody panel or shield or whatever you want to call it, so you have to take that off and this will be what it looks like.
Hope this helps someone. Now I need to figure out what to do since I don't want to pay $100+ for something this simple, but I don't have a way to get under the car safely.
Here's what was instructed. The image sucks and you can't tell what is where unless you know what you're looking at or have seen the lines yourself.
I have use hackney's image and edited it to provide a better idea of what's going on. This is all under the front underbody panel or shield or whatever you want to call it, so you have to take that off and this will be what it looks like.
Hope this helps someone. Now I need to figure out what to do since I don't want to pay $100+ for something this simple, but I don't have a way to get under the car safely.
Last edited:
GT 550
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #630
@FM GT thanks this is extremely helpful.
Oh the arrogance...it seems that in Harrop saying they will cover the cost of rectification only where there's been a failure (engine too?) they are in fact accepting liability for the issue, but in declining to foot the bill for preventative measures they're leaving themselves wide open for much larger claims. Either I'm missing something or they haven't thought this through. Also I'm not in a hurry to bend any parts of an ally radiator although it's probably fine.
It's clearly a design fault, hoses should simply not be routed across or near sharp edges.
Sorry that doesn't help you get things sorted, there's probably no way around getting someone to fix it for you although it's very poor from Harrop.
Oh the arrogance...it seems that in Harrop saying they will cover the cost of rectification only where there's been a failure (engine too?) they are in fact accepting liability for the issue, but in declining to foot the bill for preventative measures they're leaving themselves wide open for much larger claims. Either I'm missing something or they haven't thought this through. Also I'm not in a hurry to bend any parts of an ally radiator although it's probably fine.
It's clearly a design fault, hoses should simply not be routed across or near sharp edges.
Sorry that doesn't help you get things sorted, there's probably no way around getting someone to fix it for you although it's very poor from Harrop.
Sponsored