Oil change time

[Juben]

5.7'ish here and it's in the middle of the marks.

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[wmsky33]

I know what you mean. I'm thinking maybe I should just put 6 quarts in and make it easy?

BTW, love your sig!

I never blindly put in the amount of oil the specs say the engine should hold. If there is some residual oil in the engine, you could accidentally overfill. If the oil is too high in the oil pan, the crankshaft can hit the oil as it spins and cause the oil to foam, ie. air bubbles. Air compresses a great deal, unlike oil. If the air bubbles can sucked up by the oil intake and run through the engine, the oil has just lost its ability to float any bearings in the engine and you get hugely increased wear.

I always put in a quart less than called for, and then check the level. Then I continue to add the oil a little at a time until it gets close to the full mark, waiting a short time after each fill to let the oil drain into the pan. A new filter will hold about 1/2 quart, so I run the engine for a short time, a minute or two is enough, wait for the oil to drain into the oil pan and check again. Then I add more to bring it back close to the full mark on the dipstick.

You are much better off being half way between the add and full marks than you are accidentally overfilling it.

 

[jbailer]

I never blindly put in the amount of oil the specs say the engine should hold. If there is some residual oil in the engine, you could accidentally overfill. If the oil is too high in the oil pan, the crankshaft can hit the oil as it spins and cause the oil to foam, ie. air bubbles. Air compresses a great deal, unlike oil. If the air bubbles can sucked up by the oil intake and run through the engine, the oil has just lost its ability to float any bearings in the engine and you get hugely increased wear.

I always put in a quart less than called for, and then check the level. Then I continue to add the oil a little at a time until it gets close to the full mark, waiting a short time after each fill to let the oil drain into the pan. A new filter will hold about 1/2 quart, so I run the engine for a short time, a minute or two is enough, wait for the oil to drain into the oil pan and check again. Then I add more to bring it back close to the full mark on the dipstick.

You are much better off being half way between the add and full marks than you are accidentally overfilling it.

Sounds smart. So it sounds like you're saying I should add a little to bring it up to the full mark?

 

[Boosting Stangs]

Sounds smart. So it sounds like you're saying I should add a little to bring it up to the full mark?

No...he's saying put in a quart less than the manufacture recommends.
Then circulated the new oil through the engine and filter for a few minutes. Turn the engine off and let the oil settle back in the oil pan then check the fill. Add small amounts of oil till the level of oil measures between the full and add marks.

 

[wmsky33]

No...he's saying put in a quart less than the manufacture recommends.
Then circulated the new oil through the engine and filter for a few minutes. Turn the engine off and let the oil settle back in the oil pan then check the fill. Add small amounts of oil till the level of oil measures between the full and add marks.

Yes, with a car that doesn't consume oil, halfway between the full and add marks is fine. For a car that does consume oil, adding oil until it's closer to the full mark gives you a little extra insurance that the oil won't drop below the add mark before the next time you check it. On my previous car, which was 10 years old and did consume oil, I would fill it close to the full mark and check the oil every other time I got gas.

Knowing how engineers think, for a number of reasons I expect that automotive engineers set the full mark a safe distance below the level at which you'd have to worry about the crank coming into contact with the oil, and set the add mark a safe distance above where you'd have to worry about oil starvation. So, anywhere between the 2 marks is good.

 

[TheNameAndy]

Ecoboost PP here, about to change oil soon! should I go full or stay semi-synthetic ? Car is my daily driver, and probably will never see the track.

 

[sk8erord]

Interesting thread - I'm taking delivery of my Ecoboost PP today, so this is good info. I know with my Legacy GT, and my WRXs, the T6 was the preferred oil of most of the tuners, specifically because of its zinc content. Mobil 1 was shunned for turbo applications - it just couldn't hold up to it, and it was actually stated that the zinc content was too low to protect the turbo bearings. A couple of the turbo builders would not warranty their turbos with M1, and recommended T6. I'm on the fence right now, but I'll probably keep using T6 and do a couple UOA just to see how it does on this platform.

 

[turtleboy]

Ecoboost PP here, about to change oil soon! should I go full or stay semi-synthetic ? Car is my daily driver, and probably will never see the track.

Full Synthetic all the way!

 

[TheNameAndy]

Full Synthetic all the way!

ok thanks! Will the motorcraft full synthetic be just fine? or should I go with other brands mentioned in this thread?

 

[Nihil]

I see people discussing how much oil to put in...with an empty filter I put a whole jug of 5 qt and about half a qt bottle to get it up to where it needs to be.

 

[wmsky33]

ok thanks! Will the motorcraft full synthetic be just fine? or should I go with other brands mentioned in this thread?

After all the research I've done on motor oil, I've come to the conclusion that, unless you are subjecting your engine to an unusual amount of stress, such as a lot of track time and WOT, or you have a heavily modified engine, then any major brand of synthetic 5w30 that meets Ford's WSS-M2C946-A spec is fine. I know that there are conventional and synthetic blends that meet that same spec, but full synthetics resist heat better, and just make more sense for turbos.

Yes, there are exceptions; Rotella T6, being one. T6 is a diesel oil, and so doesn't meet the Ford spec because, for one thing, WSS-M2C946 stipulates a 5w30 oil, but it has been used successfully by many knowledgeable people for many years in turbocharged engines.

I am starting with 5w30 synthetic, and will be getting UOA's every oil change to make sure the oil is still good at the end of it's use. If I find that the oil is not keeping up, I may very well go to something like T6.

BTW, I don't track my car, but I do like to drive enthusiastically, and I will be doing simple bolt-on mods; tune, CAI, exhaust, etc.

 

[jbailer]

I've never had a UOA done. Anyone have a recommendation on one they use/like? Or just stick with Blackstone Labs?

 

[Russ125]

I've never had a UOA done. Anyone have a recommendation on one they use/like? Or just stick with Blackstone Labs?

Blackstone's been around since the 80's, I trust their results. It's only $25 bucks so I don't think you'd save much by shopping around. They'll even send you the sample kit up front for free.

 

[mach1]

T6 is going in my car, ford bumped the spec on the track pack cars for previous years to 5-50. The oil temps in my oil coolerless PP ecoboost are already high in the texas heat, I'm looking forward to 5-40, except the slight hit in gas milage.

 

[wmsky33]

Blackstone's been around since the 80's, I trust their results. It's only $25 bucks so I don't think you'd save much by shopping around. They'll even send you the sample kit up front for free.

FYI. Blackstone sells a pump that, for many cars, allows you to pull oil out via the dipstick tube. I have one and, unfortunately, it doesn't work with the EB. The dipstick tube is too small to push the pump's tube into.

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