OEM system is killing me - where do I go from here?

[quikcolin]

Hey guys,

I have a 2020 GT PP2 301A. The OEM audio system is just terrible. I've never owned a car where I felt the need to upgrade my audio system, until now. We have a 2019 Mazda CX-9 GT with a Bose system that's incredible (maybe not to anyone who's a hardcore audio guy, but for me, it sounds great!). When I compare the mustang to the Mazda, it's almost comical how bad the mustang is.

What should one expect to spend, and what direction should one go if they want to moderately upgrade their audio system? It's not about being loud, it's about being clear, sharp and deep... just looking for a good overall listening experience. A subwoofer out back isn't necessary, but not off the table. I don't want to break the bank, but I would like to bring it to life a little bit. Something I can enjoy.

Thanks guys!!!

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[ejshd73]

Hey guys,

I have a 2020 GT PP2 301A. The OEM audio system is just terrible. I've never owned a car where I felt the need to upgrade my audio system, until now. We have a 2019 Mazda CX-9 GT with a Bose system that's incredible (maybe not to anyone who's a hardcore audio guy, but for me, it sounds great!). When I compare the mustang to the Mazda, it's almost comical how bad the mustang is.

What should one expect to spend, and what direction should one go if they want to moderately upgrade their audio system? It's not about being loud, it's about being clear, sharp and deep... just looking for a good overall listening experience. A subwoofer out back isn't necessary, but not off the table. I don't want to break the bank, but I would like to bring it to life a little bit. Something I can enjoy.

Thanks guys!!!

Man I feel your pain . I have a 2021 with the upgraded Bang and Olufsen and it sounds awful compared to My GMC with Bose and VW with beats . It’s pretty laughable . Not sure what to do either

 

[CJJon]

Back seat delete and add this:

 

[quikcolin]

Man I feel your pain . I have a 2021 with the upgraded Bang and Olufsen and it sounds awful compared to My GMC with Bose and VW with beats . It’s pretty laughable . Not sure what to do either

Sounds like we need upgraded amps, door speakers, new tweeters and possibly a sub... ugh, sounds expensive (especially as I'm up in Canada - ugh). I'd love to hear suggestions

 

[GT 550]

IIRC there's quite a few threads discussing this.

 

[CJJon]

Speaker upgrade would do wonders. Lots of info here and crutchfields

 

[NGOT8R]

Do you guys have the B&O stereo? I felt the same way about my 2019 Bullitt and immediately made upgrades to suit my ears. You will find that before long, you will have lots of reply’s to this thread showing that there are numerous ways to approach this. Here is what I did to my car.

Go to post #17 for an explanation of the components that I installed.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aker-sub-enclosure.152341/page-2#post-3114891

See more info and pics in post #9.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ium-401a-recommendations.151647/#post-3095654

 

[StangTime]

Hey guys,

I have a 2020 GT PP2 301A. The OEM audio system is just terrible. I've never owned a car where I felt the need to upgrade my audio system, until now. We have a 2019 Mazda CX-9 GT with a Bose system that's incredible (maybe not to anyone who's a hardcore audio guy, but for me, it sounds great!). When I compare the mustang to the Mazda, it's almost comical how bad the mustang is.

What should one expect to spend, and what direction should one go if they want to moderately upgrade their audio system? It's not about being loud, it's about being clear, sharp and deep... just looking for a good overall listening experience. A subwoofer out back isn't necessary, but not off the table. I don't want to break the bank, but I would like to bring it to life a little bit. Something I can enjoy.

Thanks guys!!!

Having just finished buying and installing a whole system in my equipment option 301A. I can give you some helpful advise.
Don't bother with a 3-way speaker system in the S550. Sure the doors have a midrange driver but it's unnecessary, adds expense, and complicates the system. IMO a waste of time and money. Besides, there is not a lot to choose from in 3-way either.

I recommend a 2-way system with a tweeter that has a very low fs (resonant frequency) not many do. This allows the tweeter to play lower and cover off those octaves that the midrange in the door would be covering. Why split up the audio spectrum across multiple drivers that are mounted in different locations? This muddies and destroys the integrity of the music. My tweeters are crossed over at 2Khz. The Hertz MP25.3 (in the 2-way kit) have an fs of 1.2Khz. Rule of thumb is cross over 1.5x to 2x the fs and use a 24dB slope so the tweeter is limited to playing frequencies that it can handle well without stress or damage. Back on topic...

Here's a list of equipment in my system:
Front 2-way speakers: Hertz MPK165P.3 $390
DSP: Hertz H8 with remote control $505
5-channel amp: Hertz HCP5D $270
Subwoofer: JL HO110RG-W3v3 $599

My system is active. 4 channels for the front and 1 channel for the sub. Simple and effective. The goal was to reproduce music as accurately as possible within the limits of factory speaker locations. No crazy custom door or pod work. It also happens to play plenty loud too.

All-in cost on this in Canadian including all the hardware, sound deadening, interconnects, misc bits n pieces, and taxes was around $2500. Might be too much for some but for me, audio is as much a passion as these cars are. The system could be paired down without a subwoofer but then, you would have to rely on the Hertz 6.5 mid-bass drivers to play all the way down low. Which they will do but not with the same ease and impact a subwoofer will provide. Another option is to build your own sub and save a bit of money at the expense of your own time.

Colin, I have an offer for you. I visit London occasionally and I would be happy to let you listen to my system. I think you would be impressed what can be done with careful planning and a lot of time fine tuning the DSP. At the moment I am taking advantage of this shitty weather with the car confined to the garage, I pulled the amp rack out to carpet it. I plan to have it all back together in a few days. Would love to go for a drive to London soon.

 

[quikcolin]

Having just finished buying and installing a whole system in my equipment option 301A. I can give you some helpful advise.
Don't bother with a 3-way speaker system in the S550. Sure the doors have a midrange driver but it's unnecessary, adds expense, and complicates the system. IMO a waste of time and money. Besides, there is not a lot to choose from in 3-way either.

I recommend a 2-way system with a tweeter that has a very low fs (resonant frequency) not many do. This allows the tweeter to play lower and cover off those octaves that the midrange in the door would be covering. Why split up the audio spectrum across multiple drivers that are mounted in different locations? This muddies and destroys the integrity of the music. My tweeters are crossed over at 2Khz. The Hertz MP25.3 (in the 2-way kit) have an fs of 1.2Khz. Rule of thumb is cross over 1.5x to 2x the fs and use a 24dB slope so the tweeter is limited to playing frequencies that it can handle well without stress or damage. Back on topic...

Here's a list of equipment in my system:
Front 2-way speakers: Hertz MPK165P.3 $390
DSP: Hertz H8 with remote control $505
5-channel amp: Hertz HCP5D $270
Subwoofer: JL HO110RG-W3v3 $599

My system is active. 4 channels for the front and 1 channel for the sub. Simple and effective. The goal was to reproduce music as accurately as possible within the limits of factory speaker locations. No crazy custom door or pod work. It also happens to play plenty loud too.

All-in cost on this in Canadian including all the hardware, sound deadening, interconnects, misc bits n pieces, and taxes was around $2500. Might be too much for some but for me, audio is as much a passion as these cars are. The system could be paired down without a subwoofer but then, you would have to rely on the Hertz 6.5 mid-bass drivers to play all the way down low. Which they will do but not with the same ease and impact a subwoofer will provide. Another option is to build your own sub and save a bit of money at the expense of your own time.

Colin, I have an offer for you. I visit London occasionally and I would be happy to let you listen to my system. I think you would be impressed what can be done with careful planning and a lot of time fine tuning the DSP. At the moment I am taking advantage of this shitty weather with the car confined to the garage, I pulled the amp rack out to carpet it. I plan to have it all back together in a few days. Would love to go for a drive to London soon.

First, thank you! You clearly know your stuff. I’m not familiar with the audio dept haha (not even a little bit). It took a little googling to fully understand what you were saying (if that gives you an idea where I’m coming from lol).

Sounds like you have the perfect recipe to solve the audio issues I’m experiencing, and you experienced. The costs of $2500, although more than I thought It would cost (based on absolutely no knowledge of audio costs whatsoever) is doable. Great to get a Canadian valuation perspective.

I’d love to hear it someday! Maybe we could even met half way, both go out for a drive and met up for a listen. That’s very kind of you to offer. Thank you so much! I’m not in a hurry, heck it snowed today! Pools open and the snow was flying. Crazy Ontario spring haha.

 

[m3incorp]

Welcome to the slippery slope of upgrading the sound system in these cars.

 

[StangTime]

First, thank you! You clearly know your stuff. I’m not familiar with the audio dept haha (not even a little bit). It took a little googling to fully understand what you were saying (if that gives you an idea where I’m coming from lol).

Sounds like you have the perfect recipe to solve the audio issues I’m experiencing, and you experienced. The costs of $2500, although more than I thought It would cost (based on absolutely no knowledge of audio costs whatsoever) is doable. Great to get a Canadian valuation perspective.

I’d love to hear it someday! Maybe we could even met half way, both go out for a drive and met up for a listen. That’s very kind of you to offer. Thank you so much! I’m not in a hurry, heck it snowed today! Pools open and the snow was flying. Crazy Ontario spring haha.

Not in a hurry means you have time to research, understand, and plan. That is perfect. My install was 2 years in the making. But in my defense I also have a full time job and a house to look after.

Let's touch base or (bass) haha. When we get some good consistant weather and the Covid rules are more relaxed.

 

[RangemasterP226]

The only disappointment with my 2017 GT convertible is the standard Shaker system.
I mean the Bose OEM system in my 2006 Silverado sounds tons better. How did Ford blow this part of the car?

 

[ICU812]

The only disappointment with my 2017 GT convertible is the standard Shaker system.
I mean the Bose OEM system in my 2006 Silverado sounds tons better. How did Ford blow this part of the car?

I don't think it is just this car, We have a ford truck with the B&O set up. and MEH.
With most people streaming their tunes . I would guess, they figured is source material is going to be compressed to hell junk, So,
Our Jeep with the Boston factory set up. Sounds good, but it was before streaming/ blue tooth (it doesn't have it) .
Most of B&O product line through the decades has been is just The fancy line of Philips electronics.

 

[ICU812]

Having just finished buying and installing a whole system in my equipment option 301A. I can give you some helpful advise.
Don't bother with a 3-way speaker system in the S550. Sure the doors have a midrange driver but it's unnecessary, adds expense, and complicates the system. IMO a waste of time and money. Besides, there is not a lot to choose from in 3-way either.

I recommend a 2-way system with a tweeter that has a very low fs (resonant frequency) not many do. This allows the tweeter to play lower and cover off those octaves that the midrange in the door would be covering. Why split up the audio spectrum across multiple drivers that are mounted in different locations? This muddies and destroys the integrity of the music. My tweeters are crossed over at 2Khz. The Hertz MP25.3 (in the 2-way kit) have an fs of 1.2Khz. Rule of thumb is cross over 1.5x to 2x the fs and use a 24dB slope so the tweeter is limited to playing frequencies that it can handle well without stress or damage. Back on topic...

Here's a list of equipment in my system:
Front 2-way speakers: Hertz MPK165P.3 $390
DSP: Hertz H8 with remote control $505
5-channel amp: Hertz HCP5D $270
Subwoofer: JL HO110RG-W3v3 $599

My system is active. 4 channels for the front and 1 channel for the sub. Simple and effective. The goal was to reproduce music as accurately as possible within the limits of factory speaker locations. No crazy custom door or pod work. It also happens to play plenty loud too.

All-in cost on this in Canadian including all the hardware, sound deadening, interconnects, misc bits n pieces, and taxes was around $2500. Might be too much for some but for me, audio is as much a passion as these cars are. The system could be paired down without a subwoofer but then, you would have to rely on the Hertz 6.5 mid-bass drivers to play all the way down low. Which they will do but not with the same ease and impact a subwoofer will provide. Another option is to build your own sub and save a bit of money at the expense of your own time.

Colin, I have an offer for you. I visit London occasionally and I would be happy to let you listen to my system. I think you would be impressed what can be done with careful planning and a lot of time fine tuning the DSP. At the moment I am taking advantage of this shitty weather with the car confined to the garage, I pulled the amp rack out to carpet it. I plan to have it all back together in a few days. Would love to go for a drive to London soon.

The front speaker and being a 3 way set up, it about sound stage. A vehicles set up is different than you sitting in a room with speakers to your front left and right.
A 3 way takes a load off the tweeter having to be designed to produce the upper midrange. Allowing much clearer highs, as the driver isn't producing such a wide frequency range. Is it needed, no, does it make a difference? maybe not today were most of the source material (music/pod cast) are compressed data files.
Ever play a c/d that it self is compressed music files, then a streamed blue tooth of the same music, That took the data compression to a whole other level than the c/d?
It is night and day.
As they say, junk in, junk out. The Factory radio can't make up for the source that is compressed to hell.
But many today, mp3 type music is all they know. It is a trade off, having almost every song available at your fingertips to hear at any time. without having to own it, and happen to have it with you. In this sense people have it made. but the quality of the music suffers for it.

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