OEM Differential Oil Cooler Install

[GT_Dave]

I think that was 145C = 293F for the DTC to generate an error in the constant memory signal. Is this where the diff temperature turns on limp mode?? Seems high.
Still haven't heard when the diff pump is activated for sure. For normal highway driving, my diff gets to the 160-180 F range without the cooler pump on.

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[Tank]

I think that was 145C = 293F for the DTC to generate an error in the constant memory signal. I this where the diff temperature turns on limp mode?? Seems high.
Still haven't heard when the diff pump is activated for sure.

Thanks Dave. I saw in his second post the pump comes on at 145'. I am hoping this is correct info and that it's coincidental with the 145 C DTC condition as you pointed out.

As you might know, I started a thread looking for this info however there's been little response.

The work goes on.

 

[cking]

Info on differential cooler diagnostic from Helm

I believe my pump might be going, I have a squealing sound that stops after awhile. Help please with Forscan.

 

[cking]

Info on differential cooler diagnostic from Helm

???? Does this help

 

[cking]

If you need anything else printed from manual, like plug diagrams or other images let me know and I'll post them.

 

[jwb]

The 2016 comparison is actually the more interesting one - between tech and track. Taking a quick glance, we can probably throw out a few controllers without looking further.

* 720/IPC [integrated panel control], it has the sensor display enablement.
* 726/BCM [body control module]. It's a good candidate.
* 727/ACM [audio control module]. Not a good candidate.
* 737/RCM [restraint control module]. Not a good candidate.
* 760/ABS [abs]. Not a good candidate.
* 776/SCME [seat control module]. Not a good candidate.
* 7A5/FCDIM [front control display interface]. Not a good candidate.
* 7A7/FCIM [front control interface module]. Not a good candidate.
* 7D0/APIM [acessory protocol interface]. Not a good candidate.

726-10-01 looks like string/VIN data
726-11-01 looks like string/VIN data
726-29-02 looks interesting, but follows seats rather than coolers
726-34-01 looks promising.
726-46-02 looks promising.

There's a single bit of difference in each of those two settings. Obviously, all the rules for forscan apply about setting your checksum, etc.

Thanks Matt,
I changed the bottom three to the track pack instructions and hooked up the pump and heated the sensor. I heard two clicks from the motor/pump assy. Not sure of the temps though. One click as temp was rising (maybe 150ish) and one click dropping (130ish?). Elevated temp back up with no response. Click sounded like a solenoid but not sure what's inside the pump assy.
Disconnected everything and ran engine hoping it would throw a P188() code.
There wasn't a P188() but there was a
B1438 - Battery Current Sensor
Additional Fault Symptom:
- Frequency Modulated / Pulse Width Modulated Failure

Sounds great except FORScan says it was a previously set DTC. It may be the fuel pump. Whenever I try runs with the two connectors open I get fuel pump messages.

[MENTION=29216]jwb[/MENTION],
Diff pump reported to kick on at 145 degrees.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79194

Thanks Jim,
I saw the 293F in the Diagnosis and Testing section and thought I would run the temp up there to see if it threw a code.


Thanks,
John

 

[Tank]

Thanks Matt,
I changed the bottom three to the track pack instructions and hooked up the pump and heated the sensor. I heard two clicks from the motor/pump assy. Not sure of the temps though. One click as temp was rising (maybe 150ish) and one click dropping (130ish?). Elevated temp back up with no response. Click sounded like a solenoid but not sure what's inside the pump assy.
Disconnected everything and ran engine hoping it would throw a P188() code.
There wasn't a P188() but there was a
B1438 - Battery Current Sensor
Additional Fault Symptom:
- Frequency Modulated / Pulse Width Modulated Failure

Sounds great except FORScan says it was a previously set DTC. It may be the fuel pump. Whenever I try runs with the two connectors open I get fuel pump messages.


Thanks Jim,
I saw the 293F in the Diagnosis and Testing section and thought I would run the temp up there to see if it threw a code.

Thanks,
John

Hey John,
Appreciate the persistance I was hoping some of the forscan posted earlier might be helpful info. Are you saying one or three of the codes provided activated the pump and then turned it off? Did you try them one at a time? Just one cycle then nothing but the fuel pump codes? Not trying to harass the hell out of you but want to be very specific with this info as others might have some ideas.

I'm going forward with my OEM sensor only install to monitor diff temps this season (at the least). I plan to do a straight run from the sensor to Connector C264. Could you post the diagram from the manual for Connector C264? [MENTION=28002]cking[/MENTION], would you have this?

I was trying to match up the terminals you posted in the forscan thread and came across this source. Several OEM Ford male and female terminals are listed.

https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/O...m?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=259&show=180&page=1

Could you let us know if any look like what you found and what you think might work for the sensor and the pump?



As always, thanks for your assistance:cheers:

 

[jwb]

Just ran up to 302F. P188A was not thrown. No new codes.
Will close connectors, use back probes to connect pump, and check each pin for voltage/signal at different temps.

[MENTION=21788]Tank[/MENTION] (Jim),
As a quick trial, with only the temp sensor and speed control plugged into the open connector, I first changed 726-34-01. I heated the sensor and monitored the speed control signal on the scope. It never widened. So I added the change to 726-46-02 and repeated the test. Pulse never widened. I added 726-29-02 change and repeated. No signal change.
With all three addresses' instructions still changed, I hooked up all the wires to the pump and repeated the test. This is when I heard/felt the clicks. I was still monitoring the speed control signal and it never widened.
I never heard any more clicks and the motor/pump never started.
Thinking maybe I'd fried the pump controller, I disconnected it, connected the open connector, and started the engine with hope that perhaps an open circuit code would be thrown if a correct address was changed. I have not investigated any other differences to see what else these addresses might be.
I also realized that I have never received a code when I disconnected the sensor.

If you're running just the sensor wiring, I would get the harness that [MENTION=19530]Voodooo[/MENTION] was kind enough to reveal to us earlier in this thread (the one that picks up the magnaride also). It will have the connector for the sensor already. I have not disassembled that connector nor the aft one. So I don't know those terminals' dimensions yet. I did find the same clipsandfasteners site. However, I don't think theirs are the right dimensions. Mouser has been the nearest. Once I take apart the other connectors I will order some from them and report back. You could take out the terminals and splice directly to your wire or leave the existing wire in the connector and use those splices that cut through the coating ahead of the connector.
The forward connector you want is C264 under the LH kick panel. Lift up on the LH sill panel and remove it. Remove the hood release handle (remove the little cover in the center of it, depress the two tabs inside the handle, and it slides off; search or let me know and I can send pics). Pull the forward and bottom edges of kick panel to the right to unpin and then pull aft for final pins. You may have to remove the little triangular piece on the dash. C264 is the forward connector (white). You want the wire for pin 4 (GN 20AWG; green wire in pic) and pin 21 (GY-VT 20 AWG; white wire in pic). The location schematics are not very helpful.

You can see one of the tabs on the hood release post. C264 is fwd of grey connector. Foot rest is kind of a pain too.

These are the ones you want.

Good luck,
John

 

[cking]

Connector C264

Here is the Pic

 

[cking]

What makes you think this is a variable speed pump. From the reading I did it is only on and off controlled by the relay. I think the pulse your are seeing is the circuit test. It is feed to the pump motor and then back out to check the continuity of the wiring. That why you don't see a pulse width change. You could check on a working car by looking at the DIAG return line and see if the pulse is the same as the speed check. I think it just tells the PCM the pump is there and has battery. The manual says when PCM turns on the pump it looks for temp sensor to stop rising and start falling. If it fails to stop rising and doesn't fall in a given time then it throws a over heat code. Which I imagine causes limp mode.

Aside .. The manual says use Ford scan tool to toggle diff pump with [R-DIFF_PUMP] PID ON. Can't somebody look on a ford scan tool and get the address of this PID. All hunting for address's for functions could be hacked off a Ford scan tool pretty easily?????

 

[cking]

DTC

More Stuff about PCM signals

 

[jwb]

[MENTION=28002]cking[/MENTION]
There are a couple of reasons I (we?) think it is variable speed; 4 wires + ground (on/off would be two/three), the schematic calls one of the circuits "speed control", and the signal in that circuit is a nice narrow width square wave (at low temp). The relay in the BJB fires with the engine running so there is 12V power to the pump motor but closes with engine off; preventing battery drain. The "diag" circuit may be a test line that controls the run parameters.
In an earlier post, you said your pump was squealing. Have you monitored your axle temps by chance?
Thanks,
John

 

[Tank]

[MENTION=28002]cking[/MENTION]
There are a couple of reasons I (we?) think it is variable speed; 4 wires + ground (on/off would be two/three), the schematic calls one of the circuits "speed control", and the signal in that circuit is a nice narrow width square wave (at low temp). The relay in the BJB fires with the engine running so there is 12V power to the pump motor but closes with engine off; preventing battery drain. The "diag" circuit may be a test line that controls the run parameters.
In an earlier post, you said your pump was squealing. Have you monitored your axle temps by chance?
Thanks,
John

Hey John,
Could speed control mean if the vehicle is in motion? Not necessarily the speed at which the pump operates?

I think we're getting close

 

[montreal ponies]

You guys have completely lost me here, i'll wait for the DIY .

 

[Tank]

You guys have completely lost me here, i'll wait for the DIY .

When we get it, I'll make up a folder with all you need to know. Deliver at the first annual CAN/AM meet up

BTW, tried to do a :usa::canada: thing but apparently this forum doesn't support :canada:...

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