No Start - Communication Issues

[BoostKing]

Have you back tracked on your mods and ANYTHING you touched while doing those mods? Are you absolutely sure ALL grounds are good and secure?

Have you tried the “wiggle” test with all harness connectors to make sure nothing is loose?

I have back tracked endlessly. The closest I got to the harness is through the grommet on the passenger kick area and I'm certain I did not damage any wires in there.

I wish I had better electrical troubleshooting experience. My friend said he thinks it's a ground issue too, but I have no idea where to look aside from the battery area and the fuse box in the engine bay.

It's going to end up being something dumb I'm sure. I'll keep digging. Should anyone have more suggestions I am open to trying anything at this point that could potentially help. Thank you.

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[Basspro302]

So does the dash power up like normal but you have a no crank no start?

 

[BoostKing]

Yes. Dash is normal. Aside from the warnings. I'll post a video later.

 

[Basspro302]

Can you pull live data from the pcm? Or any other modules?

 

[BoostKing]

 

[2022 Mach 1]

I watched you video. What you are hearing and feeling is indeed the voltage hitting the fuse panel. When you had the battery tested did the load test it for CCAs?

 

[fmc_smt]

Most definitely a ground . Check ground 200 right side of dash

 

[BoostKing]

 

[BoostKing]

Most definitely a ground . Check ground 200 right side of dash

Sorry to sound so naive, what is ground 200? I'm looking around feeling foolish.

 

[BoostKing]

I watched you video. What you are hearing and feeling is indeed the voltage hitting the fuse panel. When you had the battery tested did the load test it for CCAs?

They did "load" test it according to him. Honestly, I'm not too confident. Though the battery has been strong since charging it. I also had my NOCO set to start mode and I have a NOCO jump box. I dont think it's cranking amps at all.

It's something electrical with it not talking on the network.

 

[2022 Mach 1]

They did "load" test it according to him. Honestly, I'm not too confident. Though the battery has been strong since charging it. I also had my NOCO set to start mode and I have a NOCO jump box. I dont think it's cranking amps at all.

It's something electrical with it not talking on the network.

I'm wishing you the best. A short would cause some smoking on crank. It's very weird.

 

[spedy7]

Probably a stupid question - have you applied a test light (non-led type!) to the starter trigger wire when attempting a start (small wire) and both large posts on the starter (one should be hot all the time and other hot when attempting to start)? Had one S197 5.0 that would intermittently not start and not throw any starter performance DTC's, only not current network DTC's (CMDTC's in Ford's words). Finally replicated it...turned out to be a damn starter lol.

Aside from that, clear DTC's and see what returns as a "fault present" DTC after attempting to start. If Forscan has a live network monitor or at least a network test function, try that to see if anything important isn't communicating.

The odd part about new cars (at least with Ford) is batteries can be an issue but not so much unless you have a battery terminal mounted BMS sensor (which Mustangs don't have) that is severely corroded or damaged (*in my experience, but also have not seen a no crank due to a damaged BMS sensor*). The most I've seen from a good "bad" battery was auto start-stop systems not working due to Ford's perceived battery state of charge through the BCM. I haven't come across a no crank due to a battery, even though the battery is for sure good (even new) and even has a jumper box attached. Basically, if the battery is good with a proper load tester...it's something else lol. If you dare to venture there, your local Ford dealer should have battery testers that comply with Ford's battery test standards.

 

[BoostKing]

I did not apply a test light to the starter. I can, I just didn't believe it would reveal anything. I give it a shot today though as I have nothing to lose.

My thought is that the starter is likely getting everything it should, but the signal from network is not being sent when pushing the start button due to some issue. Since I can talk to all of the modules using Forscan to some extent, I assume it's more of a ground issue as well. I just dont have a clue where.

I need to keep digging. My service advisor should be giving me a call later to schedule me to drop it off, but man I would love to figure this out before then.

Still want to know what the "ground 200" is.

 

[BoostKing]

I think I found ground 200. Looks normal. Test light to the battery and it works. Not sure.

 

[BoostKing]

Problem has been solved. You'll have a good laugh soon. Will explain later.

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