New to Engine build, Ideas?

[BBW P1X]

So im new to Building an engine and where to get started, I am currently Supercharged making a decent bit of power. I have my stock engine at the moment with OPG and Crank Sprocket.

My goal is to have an engine capable of 1200hp+ reason being i rather be safe than sorry not because i'll be wanting that much power, too many of my buddies have blown up engines collecting dust on their cars because of high horsepower and i just don't want to be in the same situation.

Do i just use my engine, buy the parts such as sleeves, pistons, rods, and new crank? and have a shop replace them like as if it was a puzzle or start from beginning?

Are new heads and cams required?

I will have a reliable shop do it for me once i find one PRIOR TO BUYING ANYTHING to ensure i don't buy unnecessary crap.

I will eventually be moving up to an F1 Procharger since im on P1X at the moment.

If you have built from scratch and have an idea of cost PM to get an idea or if you used your own engine and just upgraded the parts.

im assuming using your own engine is cheaper too right?

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[Kong76]

So im new to Building an engine and where to get started, I am currently Supercharged making a decent bit of power. I have my stock engine at the moment with OPG and Crank Sprocket.

My goal is to have an engine capable of 1200hp+ reason being i rather be safe than sorry not because i'll be wanting that much power, too many of my buddies have blown up engines collecting dust on their cars because of high horsepower and i just don't want to be in the same situation.

Do i just use my engine, buy the parts such as sleeves, pistons, rods, and new crank? and have a shop replace them like as if it was a puzzle or start from beginning?

Are new heads and cams required?

I will have a reliable shop do it for me once i find one PRIOR TO BUYING ANYTHING to ensure i don't buy unnecessary crap.

I will eventually be moving up to an F1 Procharger since im on P1X at the moment.

If you have built from scratch and have an idea of cost PM to get an idea or if you used your own engine and just upgraded the parts.

im assuming using your own engine is cheaper too right?

I was just having this conversation with our plant mechanic. I was showing him all the pre built blocks on established engine builder sites and he mentioned taking mine in and checking the health and having a shop build it. I know the 15-17s blocks have sleeves from factory ( at least that's what I read). Wonder what the cost analysis would be. That way you can build it custom for what you want power wise and not over pay for an under built engine.

 

[BBW P1X]

I was just having this conversation with our plant mechanic. I was showing him all the pre built blocks on established engine builder sites and he mentioned taking mine in and checking the health and having a shop build it. I know the 15-17s blocks have sleeves from factory ( at least that's what I read). Wonder what the cost analysis would be. That way you can build it custom for what you want power wise and not over pay for an under built engine.

Yeah exactly what i was thinking, its just me wanting to have a reliable safe engine that will be a tank for my application. Im going to have to find a shop near me and see how they work from the bottom up, may even be able to sell parts from the stock engine for those that need specific parts for a rebuilt engine which is good, could even just sell entire motor as is though which is a possibility but will be a hassle for sure finding a buyer.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

It depends on your timeline and what you want to spend.

There’s many reputable shops that sell pre assembled shortblocks, built to handle the power you’re looking for. At that point, you just need the top end. That could come from your current car or purchased separate. You can absolutely use your current heads and cams unless they are damaged due to a serious engine failure.

Depending on what you are looking to do, you can have a shop build it as well. However, you may not have the same type of warranty coverage that a pre assembled shortblock would come with.

Based on what you’re explaining, it would seemingly make sense to go ahead and install the new engine and recoup some cost by selling your current shorblock (block and internals, no top end parts). Then it’s done and you can forget about it.

 

[BBW P1X]

It depends on your timeline and what you want to spend.

There’s many reputable shops that sell pre assembled shortblocks, built to handle the power you’re looking for. At that point, you just need the top end. That could come from your current car or purchased separate. You can absolutely use your current heads and cams unless they are damaged due to a serious engine failure.

Depending on what you are looking to do, you can have a shop build it as well. However, you may not have the same type of warranty coverage that a pre assembled shortblock would come with.

Based on what you’re explaining, it would seemingly make sense to go ahead and install the new engine and recoup some cost by selling your current shorblock (block and internals, no top end parts). Then it’s done and you can forget about it.

thanks for the input i like that idea, My engine is running smoothly and has only 35k miles for a 5 yr car and always changed oil every 3k miles so which can benefit a buyer. If i get a bottom end and keep stock heads does it make it weaker or does it affect power? for example forged pistons and rods are obvious stronger, is it the same with heads where it makes the engine stronger or is it more of a performance mod that the bottom end needs to handle?

 

[Shifting_Gears]

thanks for the input i like that idea, My engine is running smoothly and has only 35k miles for a 5 yr car and always changed oil every 3k miles so which can benefit a buyer. If i get a bottom end and keep stock heads does it make it weaker or does it affect power? for example forged pistons and rods are obvious stronger, is it the same with heads where it makes the engine stronger or is it more of a performance mod that the bottom end needs to handle?

No problem.

And no - the heads don’t effect reliability or power. Building heads just consists of what you stuff them with.. as long as the heads are flat (they should be checked prior to installation and milled if they’re out of tolerance, chances are they’re fine) then you’re good to go.

The caveat is if you put new heads on a tired bottom end, it can cause problems for the bottom end of the engine.. but this is a very old “mechanics tale” and not really the same logic for new, high tech engines.

Big power always challenges the bottom end or head gaskets. Short of a failure with timing components (IE oil pump gears, timing chain/tensioner, valve springs) the heads are far less impacted by boost than the bottom end. Poor tuning can also damage valves (running lean, the combustion chamber becomes too hot and can damage th valves, valve seats). But generally speaking, rods and pistons are the first things to take the damage of too much boost for their rated power levels or too much boost with poor tuning.

Piston ringlands can break, pistons can get burnt, rods can break or bend, rod bearings take a crap, etc.

Good news is the Coyotes are very stout. Failures are more likely to be the result of poor tuning or neglence than anything else.

 

[WildHorse]

My goal is to have an engine capable of 1200hp+

Sleeves. Rods. Pistons. APR Studs everywhere (mains / rods / cylinder heads). Twin Turbo. Everything else is fine.

 

[BBW P1X]

No problem.

And no - the heads don’t effect reliability or power. Building heads just consists of what you stuff them with.. as long as the heads are flat (they should be checked prior to installation and milled if they’re out of tolerance, chances are they’re fine) then you’re good to go.

The caveat is if you put new heads on a tired bottom end, it can cause problems for the bottom end of the engine.. but this is a very old “mechanics tale” and not really the same logic for new, high tech engines.

Big power always challenges the bottom end or head gaskets. Short of a failure with timing components (IE oil pump gears, timing chain/tensioner, valve springs) the heads are far less impacted by boost than the bottom end. Poor tuning can also damage valves (running lean, the combustion chamber becomes too hot and can damage th valves, valve seats). But generally speaking, rods and pistons are the first things to take the damage of too much boost for their rated power levels or too much boost with poor tuning.

Piston ringlands can break, pistons can get burnt, rods can break or bend, rod bearings take a crap, etc.

Good news is the Coyotes are very stout. Failures are more likely to be the result of poor tuning or neglence than anything else.

Perfect write up, will take note of that and ensure that i can get that done, ill most likely buy a custom set of cams and new heads just to have everything redone so i appreciate the input, will also speak with my tuner and see the all around picture.

I guess time to start shopping around for a reliable builder and major headaches i assume lol

 

[BBW P1X]

Sleeves. Rods. Pistons. APR Studs everywhere (mains / rods / cylinder heads). Twin Turbo. Everything else is fine.

Can't go wrong with that at all! Love the twin turbo's might have to switch up to that setup you never know.

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