Need Help for 9speaker upgrade

[pike1346]

[MENTION=22400]pike1346[/MENTION] mind explaining where you tapped into for the audio signal? Did you already have the 12 speaker system with the factory sub?

I have the 9 speaker shaker system (no factory sub). I used a low level signal converter and tapped into the rear speaker cables. It is very easy. I just soldered the wires were they connect to the rear speakers.
I used the rear seat bolt for the ground. The big bolt is in the middle of the rear seats. Fold both seats down, and you will see it.

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[kratch]

I tried upgrading just the speakers and it wasn't enough.
I just got the rest of my stuff today:
Stealthbox
JL XD700/5v2
Sony XS-GS1631C

The amp will fit in factory amp location (same physical size) with some work see Racemaster's post here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58862

I can drive everything with a single amp using the 3-way components up front, and if I eventually want to go full active, I can another smaller amp and a DSP.

 

[Shouldhavegotthegt]

I tried upgrading just the speakers and it wasn't enough.
I just got the rest of my stuff today:
Stealthbox
JL XD700/5v2
Sony XS-GS1631C

The amp will fit in factory amp location (same physical size) with some work see Racemaster's post here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58862

I can drive everything with a single amp using the 3-way components up front, and if I eventually want to go full active, I can another smaller amp and a DSP.

I’ve been looking to upgrade to the stealthbox. I’ve currently got a 12”Rockford P3 and a 750 Mono Rockford amp. Sounds pretty good but the box is huge and takes up half the trunk. I want something more compact. May just go zenclosure with some JLs.

Not toy hijack the thread but any suggestions on other setups that will work with the zenclosure and 750 watt RMS at 1ohm?

 

[Rippermac]

Can anyone say why the stealthbox wont fit in a convertible?

 

[Racemaster]

Kratch,before you mount those speakers,did you look at the specs?
They have a 87db rating which means it will take some power to get loud.
Speakers with a rating on 90-92 db will take less power to get to listening levels.Just thought you should be aware of that.

Next is the crossovers.How are you going to wire them?Factory wiring?
Here is what I did before going active and worked out well.Each "section" of the crossover was mounted near each speaker,using the stock wiring.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66194

There isn't much room behind the door panel to mount the crossover.No room under the kick panels either....lol.

Really upgrading the stereo in this car is a huge pain in the ass.:frusty:

 

[kratch]

I did take a very close look at the specs and I realize they're not as efficient as some other sets, but I am OK with that. I am replacing factory wiring with twisted 16AWG for front woofers and mids and mounting crossovers under dash on starboard panels. The crossovers will accept 2 inputs for each side, so that may help with the low efficiency. It may not, but I'm gonna find out.
I would rather have good quality sound, and this set was recommended by the local audio shop, and they even offered to take them back if I don't like how they sound because they are that confident that the new Sony 3 way is awesome. I think they're still listed as available soon on Sony's website so there really aren't many reviews on them yet. Am I taking a risk trying out something new? Yes, but someone has to do it. These could be the next big thing for late model mustang audio if they pan out. If not, well then I'll get the Focal AS3 or Hertz 163.
There are a number of S550 owners at work interested in how this turns out, and I think this represents the type of audio upgrade many of the people I know are interested in - a little beyond the typical amp and speaker upgrade, but hopefully still a good value for the sound quality. I guess we'll see soon enough.
Racemaster, I've referenced some of your threads and I have to give you credit for the inspiration behind this effort.

 

[Racemaster]

Thanks for the credit.
You could use the both door wires for the woofer and mid,then just run a new wire to the pillar for the tweets.Saves a lot of grief.
You are going to have to bridge the channels together and feed each crossover the full 200 watts at 87 db. Not a big deal.Use the 16 gauge wire to go to the crossover,but don't get too hung up on the small door wiring.I have not seen it make any difference.

Any help you need feel free to ask

 

[Niz55]

Not easy to change the stereos in cars today; everything is f'ing integrated.

BEST approach is to get a processor (Audison bit.1, Rockford Fosgate 360.3, etc.) and pipe in the factory signal to it, allow the processor to flatten it and then from there you can tailor the sound to your liking. A competent shop can tune a car very nicely.

JBL's car speakers aren't awful. What's awful is people's obsession with Kicker.

IMHO, the best BUDGET (car audio-branded) speaker is Infinity Reference. Rule #1 is the quality of the installation, not the speaker choice. You have to seal that door to get the midbass you expect. The Ford Fiesta, for example, has a plastic piece that seals the holes in the inner door skin creating, effectively a more-or-less sealed enclosed. Off of ONLY an aftermarket Alpine deck power, my Infinity Reference speakers in that car sounded great and produced enough bass that I didn't bother with a subwoofer. On the flipside, I put better speakers in my Chevy pickup truck that had holes for days in the inner skin of the door and found the car to have far LESS midbass/bass than before. So I went back in, sealed the door with carefully cut 1/4" HDPE plastic and a light smattering of some Stinger Roadkill (Dynamat). I set up two tune scenarios, one that would disable the subwoofer amplifier and not run the subs. In the no-sub scenario, tons of people thought I had subwoofers running but it was just a 3-way Pioneer Stage 4 component set with a 6.5" mid-bass in the front doors (no rear spe
akers).

[MENTION=21494]wildcatgoal[/MENTION]

can i use this in my 9 speaker car? AudioControl DQ-61

I only have JL stealth box wit Jl 500X1 amp installed and i am going to upgrade all my speakers

Speakers will go in are:
front: Focal 165AS3
Rear: Focal Performance 165AC

Also, What benefits can i get from the processor? I am not going to upgrade my amp so just keeping the factory amp.

Thanks

 

[pike1346]

I haven't seen too much information on this swap, but it seems to make sense. Wouldn't it throw off my balance since I am missing the additional 2 speakers the pro has (I think they are just 2 way rear deck speakers if I recall).

Yea my current impression of JBL car audio is that they are the top of the line walmart brand lol. I consider the factory 9 speakers sufficient for my needs, I just wish it was easier to add a small sub as I want a tiny bit more thump. A nice low profile 8 inch sub would more than suffice for me. I can't justify spending more than 500 on such a silly need though.

I put a powered 12 in Punch sub in for less than $250. Worth every penny. I have the shaker 9 speaker system. Added a low level controller-tapped into rear speakers, ground tapped into rear seat bolt, and power ran to battery (hardest part) sounds awesome. and easy to do

 

[mumbles]

I did take a very close look at the specs and I realize they're not as efficient as some other sets, but I am OK with that. I am replacing factory wiring with twisted 16AWG for front woofers and mids and mounting crossovers under dash on starboard panels. The crossovers will accept 2 inputs for each side, so that may help with the low efficiency. It may not, but I'm gonna find out.
I would rather have good quality sound, and this set was recommended by the local audio shop, and they even offered to take them back if I don't like how they sound because they are that confident that the new Sony 3 way is awesome. I think they're still listed as available soon on Sony's website so there really aren't many reviews on them yet. Am I taking a risk trying out something new? Yes, but someone has to do it. These could be the next big thing for late model mustang audio if they pan out. If not, well then I'll get the Focal AS3 or Hertz 163.
There are a number of S550 owners at work interested in how this turns out, and I think this represents the type of audio upgrade many of the people I know are interested in - a little beyond the typical amp and speaker upgrade, but hopefully still a good value for the sound quality. I guess we'll see soon enough.
Racemaster, I've referenced some of your threads and I have to give you credit for the inspiration behind this effort.

Thanks for the credit.
You could use the both door wires for the woofer and mid,then just run a new wire to the pillar for the tweets.Saves a lot of grief.
You are going to have to bridge the channels together and feed each crossover the full 200 watts at 87 db. Not a big deal.Use the 16 gauge wire to go to the crossover,but don't get too hung up on the small door wiring.I have not seen it make any difference.

Any help you need feel free to ask

I would agree with Racemaster on just using the factory door wiring. I'm running 100w to my mids and 200w to my woofers and the factory wiring is just fine... plus its a pain to try to run new wires in our cars.

 

[mumbles]

@wildcatgoal

can i use this in my 9 speaker car? AudioControl DQ-61

I only have JL stealth box wit Jl 500X1 amp installed and i am going to upgrade all my speakers

Speakers will go in are:
front: Focal 165AS3
Rear: Focal Performance 165AC

Also, What benefits can i get from the processor? I am not going to upgrade my amp so just keeping the factory amp.

Thanks

[MENTION=15675]Niz55[/MENTION]
Not wildcatgoal, but I don't believe you are on the right track with the DQ-61... It is made to take a factory signal from the factory head unit and output, via RCA's, to aftermarket amps, not to feed back into the factory amp.

 

[Niz55]

Well I decided to also add an amplifier for the speaker. I want to go with audison bit ten dsp 5 channel. But I want to know how would I amp my rear speakers?

 

[Niz55]

do i also need to run the crossovers that came with my component speakers?

 

[UserName]

Well I decided to also add an amplifier for the speaker. I want to go with audison bit ten dsp 5 channel. But I want to know how would I amp my rear speakers?

You need at least an eight channel DSP to do it right. If you want rear fill you’ll need even more. Ditch the center dash and rear speakers, treat the doors for proper mid bass and you’ll never look back.

do i also need to run the crossovers that came with my component speakers?

No, the processor does that for you. That’s why you need one channel per speaker in your DSP and an individual amplifier channel per speaker. they are all independently controlled with the exception of the subs which run in mono if you have multiples.

 

[justme97]

I bought a 8" amplified bazooka tube for my convertible to add a bit of bass to my 9-speaker setup. I got it because it fits perfectly into the useless space under the top compartment, against the seats and unplugs with one connection. Cheap too.
Haven't hooked it up though. Their "fast" connector is one piece, hoping I can grab the power, rear speaker lines (they aren't accessible from the trunk on the vert) and remote all from the amp behind the drivers kick panel. Haven't looked into pinouts yet though.
Anyone go that route? I know op has the same sub. Guess he doesn't like it though lol. Wondering if he's tried repositioning it? Got great reviews on crutchfield...

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