Need help choosing DSP

[Racemaster]

In the helix software you only need 2.You just drag and drop the inputs to the outputs.
Other DSP's may work the same way,but I am not sure on that.Send back the JL amp and just put the HelixP-Six in and be done with it.All in one unit.The JL @ 75watt a channel is borderline enough power.It will be good and clean but you might want just a touch more loudness.Keep you other amp in the back for the sub.

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[Niz55]

That's seemsike a good choice but I have 2 6.5 woofers installed in the rear deck.

 

[driden]

One of the biggest discussions regarding the rear deck speakers is "are they worth having?". My opinion is that any decently powered sub will quickly drown out any fill that the rear deck speakers provide. In my system, I went with a full 6 channel (6 separate speakers, tweets, 3's, and 6.5's) in the front, and a sub. I don't use the center channel speakers nor the rear deck speakers.

 

[Niz55]

i am having second thoughts about the upgrade. Shelbys have this hissing noise as it is in stock form coming out from the speakers. If i add any additional amps/dsp i have a good chance of increasing the hissing noise.

 

[mumbles]

i am having second thoughts about the upgrade. Shelbys have this hissing noise as it is in stock form coming out from the speakers. If i add any additional amps/dsp i have a good chance of increasing the hissing noise.

Shelbys in general, or yours in particular? I would take it to the dealer if mine were doing that... I know ecoboosts have engine sound added to the system but that doesn't sound like what you're describing.

 

[mumbles]

Ok I am little confused. For inpute on my front components I only need 4 because the tweeters and mids are on a single channel and the woofer is a separate channel?

Yeah, Ford didn't do us any favors when the laid out this system... a bit confusing.
With the 8 channel amp, you will run 6 channels to the front speakers, 2 channels for the rears (which I agree are not necessary) and 1 or 2 channels to your sub.

In the factory wiring, the tweeters and midranges are tied together. But, by replacing the factory tweeter, you break that tie and run a set of speaker wires up the A-pillar to your new Focal tweeter... make sense?

 

[Niz55]

Yes Shelby in general. I have asked the question in the Shelby section and everyone that owns a Shelby do have the noise.

I did add a amp to the rear speakers while back and if turn the gain up the noise will get louder and louder. But running a subeoofer with a mono amp no issue when the gain is turned up.

 

[Niz55]

Yeah, Ford didn't do us any favors when the laid out this system... a bit confusing.
With the 8 channel amp, you will run 6 channels to the front speakers, 2 channels for the rears (which I agree are not necessary) and 1 or 2 channels to your sub.

In the factory wiring, the tweeters and midranges are tied together. But, by replacing the factory tweeter, you break that tie and run a set of speaker wires up the A-pillar to your new Focal tweeter... make sense?

So running separate wire to the tweeters and into the dsp correct? The rest mids and woofers I can tap into the exciting wires harness at the factory amp.

 

[UserName]

Yes Shelby in general. I have asked the question in the Shelby section and everyone that owns a Shelby do have the noise.

I did add a amp to the rear speakers while back and if turn the gain up the noise will get louder and louder. But running a subeoofer with a mono amp no issue when the gain is turned up.

How are you setting your gain? A DMM or oscilloscope? It sounds like you found the noise floor of your amp and it’s causing the hiss, not the factory head unit.

I regularly drive my buddies GT350R and it has the exact same factory 9 speaker as my GT. Never have noticed any difference in quality of sound.

 

[mumbles]

So running separate wire to the tweeters and into the dsp correct? The rest mids and woofers I can tap into the exciting wires harness at the factory amp.

If by "tap" you mean use Molex plugs, then yes...

So I went ultra simple in my setup...
I took the front L & R signal back to my dsp (which happens to be a Helix Pro v1).
In the Helix I have a high pass to the tweeters, a band pass to the mids, a band pass to the woofers and a low pass to the subs.
The outputs from the Helix feed my amps; 100w to tweeters & mids, 200w to the woofers and 500w per sub.

Take a look at the IM I sent you with the link to the system diagram from the sticky... basically, everything running from front to back in my car is handled by 2 nine-wire "speed wires", one for the left channel stuff and one for the right.

 

[UserName]

If by "tap" you mean use Molex plugs, then yes...

So I went ultra simple in my setup...
I took the front L & R signal back to my dsp (which happens to be a Helix Pro v1).
In the Helix I have a high pass to the tweeters, a band pass to the mids, a band pass to the woofers and a low pass to the subs.
The outputs from the Helix feed my amps; 100w to tweeters & mids, 200w to the woofers and 500w per sub.

Take a look at the IM I sent you with the link to the system diagram from the sticky... basically, everything running from front to back in my car is handled by 2 nine-wire "speed wires", one for the left channel stuff and one for the right.

It’s telling that so many people recommend the Helix DSPs. They simply work well and are built to last.


Your setup is exactly the same as mine just different brands. I can’t fathom why you would need to do anything beyond this unless you are going to watch movies in your car and want to try A 5.1 setup.

 

[Niz55]

If by "tap" you mean use Molex plugs, then yes...

So I went ultra simple in my setup...
I took the front L & R signal back to my dsp (which happens to be a Helix Pro v1).
In the Helix I have a high pass to the tweeters, a band pass to the mids, a band pass to the woofers and a low pass to the subs.
The outputs from the Helix feed my amps; 100w to tweeters & mids, 200w to the woofers and 500w per sub.

Take a look at the IM I sent you with the link to the system diagram from the sticky... basically, everything running from front to back in my car is handled by 2 nine-wire "speed wires", one for the left channel stuff and one for the right.

Yes the molex connectors will be used for my woofer and mids and rest of the speakers. The tweeter will have a separate wires going to the dsp straight out from back of the tweeter.

 

[Niz55]

How are you setting your gain? A DMM or oscilloscope? It sounds like you found the noise floor of your amp and it’s causing the hiss, not the factory head unit.

I regularly drive my buddies GT350R and it has the exact same factory 9 speaker as my GT. Never have noticed any difference in quality of sound.

I tried it on 3 different cars at dealer and all had the same noise. When you turn off the car you can hear is hissing for good 5 min and than it will turn off. You can also hear it while the car is running with the windows up stereo on lowest volume or mute. No one has figured out what it is yet.

For the amp gain I used a scope and followed JL video. Does not matter what you do when you upped the gain on amp the noise will get louder and louder.

 

[Niz55]

I messaged someone that has a mustang on diyaudioforums and he recommended this.

What you're likely going to want to do is:

- re-program the ACM:
- remove the EQ and corrections/filters applied
- change output voltage to line-level (pre-amp)
- tap into wire harness (front left/right) to RCA connectors
(look into "ForScan" - on a Shelby you'll likely want it for other things anyways)
- add an aftermarket DSP
- each speaker needs one channel on DSP and one on amplifier - appears you got that covered
- tune crossover points for each speaker (so they only play what they're supposed to)
- adjust input/output matrix for left/right stereo
- adjust output gain so they all blend properly
- measure/tune/tweak EQ (iterative process)

 

[ahl395]

^ Yes, you can use Forscan to remove the factory EQ and noise cancelling stuff. You can also adjust the output voltage to line level if it's not already.

Here is a spreadsheet showing all the Forscan codes for our cars: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98260

And here is a how-to on using and setting up Forscan: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61773

It seems really confusing at first but it's actually pretty easy once you actually sit down to do it.

I strongly suggest you get a set of harnesses from [MENTION=28081]HextallS550[/MENTION] . He can make you a harness that will plug right into your factory amp connectors and give you everything you need. 4 channel RCA out, remote, and can give you front speaker inputs if you don't want to run new wires through your doors.

Personally I went with a 10 channel Helix DSP Pro and I love it. So many adjustments available. Parametric EQ, adjustable crossovers, time/distance alignment, and so on. Made an incredible difference and the adjustability is great. I cant recommend it enough to be honest. The software is a little buggy, but overall it's excellent. I did not remove my factory EQ but with all the adjustments you can make to the EQ with the Helix I don't think it's really important anymore. You can use the Helix to take your 4 channel input and split them up to run all 10 channels with their individual crossovers and EQs.

I do not run a center speaker, as I find it pointless in my opinion. Once you set up time alignment all the sound blends together very well and I just don't see the need for it if your front stage is loud enough personally. Seems like a bandaid for more volume up front, but that's just my opinion.

Contrary to alot of people I prefer to run rear "fill" speakers. I've ran systems with and without before to compare. I like the "surround sound" feel of having the rear speakers installed. They are definitely not as important as the front, my rears sound like shit if I turn off all the others lol, but something seems like its "missing" without them. Again, I like the surround sound effect from having speakers all around you.

It's really long, but feel free to check out my audio build thread in my signature.

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