My Twin Turbo Setup (leave thoughts)

[Umang]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/roush-rs3-with-stock-drive-shaft-max-limit.145844/

Regarding the stock driveshaft, this is a recent thread which provides some insight.

From several threads, seems like it'd be a good idea to include a driveshaft safety hoop, regardless if you replace the driveshaft or not. Peace of mind.

Peace of mind is everything with me haha, thank you for this!

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[shogun32]

What suspension and rear end upgrades would you recommend and why if you don't mind me asking?

read the suspension section.

 

[Umang]

All looks good to me. You are aware the fore innovations fuel kit will not let you run low fuel levels in the tank safely? I am guessing you are going to run E85? Also what exhaust manifolds are you going to use? Better question... is this going to be a low mount kit or engine bay setup?
If you want the engine bay to be a little cleaner you might want to do a Vacuum block for boost reference and BOVs. Also what is you plan for PVC routing. I have the oil turbos so I dont really know what is changed with oil-less when it comes to crank case pressure relief. My kit just had it routed to the front of my air filters. I have since installed a catch can between the driver's valve cover and the Driver's turbo air filter. For some reason my engine huffs way more vapor on the driver's side.

I was not aware of that with the Fore kit but thank you. I am pretty new to all this so somethings I understand and some down. So I ask for everyone's patience as I learn haha and ask for you guys to kindly educate me in these areas.

I will be running E85 yes.

This will be a low mount kit yes.

Not really sure how to reply to the last part, ill get back to you on this lol sorry.

 

[noshine4mine]

I was not aware of that with the Fore kit but thank you. I am pretty new to all this so somethings I understand and some down. So I ask for everyone's patience as I learn haha and ask for you guys to kindly educate me in these areas.

I will be running E85 yes.

This will be a low mount kit yes.

Not really sure how to reply to the last part, ill get back to you on this lol sorry.

So any of the fuel hats with triple pump setups are too big to go in the factory fuel bucket in the tank, so if you have low fuel in the tank there is a chance you can starve the pump from the fuel sloshing around. People get around it by not letting the fuel get below half a tank if you are hammering on the gas pedal. I didnt want to deal with that and I am not going to run E85 so I dont need the extra volume 3 pumps will provide. I chose an X2 fuel hat from Deatschwerks, it allows you to run two pumps inside the factory fuel bucket.

How is the EPA regs in your area? If you live in a small town like me, it will not matter how you setup the crank case vents. It is about how they test your car for emissions. I assume it doesnt matter for you, I dont see many turbo kits still running CATs.

 

[wish i was fast]

there's nothing wrong with what you've laid out. but you can get the same job done for half the price. also if you want peace of mind, you're gonna need some internal engine work. The engines, pretty stout and it'll hold for a while maybe even for a long time but everytime you go wot you'll be rolling them dice

 

[Todd]

I run twin Comp 6568s, twin 45mm gates, through a 6r80. No Co2 and a three port solenoid, so boost is limited to roughly twice gate spring pressure. It made over 1200 on 24 psi. Looking to add some air and push 30psi and see where it lands...1350-1400 +/-. You'll make good numbers for a street setup with your package. It's a blast to drive. And honestly, above 14-15psi, it gets hairy on the street.

 

[engineermike]

Who is tuning?

 

[illtal]

What's up guys, this is everything I am about to put into the car. Leave any thoughts on the setup, any advice, recommendations, or any experiences you've had with a similar setup.

Twin Turbo:

1. Twin Oil - less Ball bearing 6265 Comp turbos (rated at 850hp each)
2. All aircraft quality stainless turbo headers with laser cut stainless flanges
3. Tial 38mm wastegates x2
4. turbo smart Blow off valve
5. 3.5” intercooler w/ Snow Performance meth injection setup (20psi boost 112degree IAT’s) wont be running the meth kit though.
6. Stainless exhaust piping
7. Aluminum polished cold side piping
8. all fittings and clamps have been upgraded to tbolt clamps and AN fittings and steel raided lines for coolant to turbos

Fuel:

1. Fore Innovations Fuel System Level 2 Dual Pump 1200+H
2. Injector Dynamics High Impedance ID1300x
3. Primary Fuel Pump: TI Auto F9000267 [Walbro 465]
4. Secondary Fuel Pump: TI Auto F9000267 [Walbro 465] (+$110)
5. Electrical Upgrade: Pump Power Pigtails Only (+$25)
6. Fuel Lines: Teflon -10 Feed / -8 Return (+$65)
7. Filtration Media: Stainless Steel (+$32)
8. Filter Selection: 128mm Upgrade
9. 0 -100psi Fuel Pressure Gauge

Tranny:

1. T56 Magnum Swap With Vengeance Stage 2 Clutch

Motor:

1. Boundary Engineering Billet Oil Pump Gears and Crankshaft Sprocket
2. TiVCT Timing Chain guides set
3. MMR Billet Secondary Tensioner Bracket
4. Primary Timing Chain Set
5. Secondary timing chains
6. Coyote Boss 302 Timing Chain Tensioners

.

Looks like it will be close to my setup. I don't think you need the mmr secondary tensioner bracket unless you are going to 9k rpm or more.

Filtration media needs to be glass.

I bought a scherer fab dual in single out intercooler it's about 4.5 inches thick. The top came with a vband connection, we may go vband on the inlets as well.

 

[illtal]

Btw I have a NIB dw x-2 fuel hat with 3 NIB 274s available since I went with some brushless setup instead.

Also recommend not getting greedy on boost if your not going to run e-85. Get a short block ready if you're going to roll the dice. Is this a gen 2 car?

 

[illtal]

Who is tuning?

Lund?

 

[wish i was fast]

I don't think you need the mmr secondary tensioner bracket unless you are going to 9k rpm or more.

what makes you say this?

 

[illtal]

Omg it's the weirdo again.

It's 100% not necessary unless he/she is revving that piss out of the motor/head setup. I would put that money into valve springs and retainers instead.

There are examples of cars revving over 8k on bone stock engines. Why do you need a bracket to do this.

 

[wish i was fast]

Omg it's the weirdo again.

It's 100% not necessary unless he/she is revving that piss out of the motor/head setup. I would put that money into valve springs and retainers instead.

There are examples of cars revving over 8k on bone stock engines. Why do you need a bracket to do this.

ok keyboard warrior.
the bracket has nothing to do with being able to rev high. it keeps cam timing correct. so no you don't need it but it will keep the cam timing on both heads the same and not fluctuating on one head

 

[illtal]

ok keyboard warrior.
the bracket has nothing to do with being able to rev high. it keeps cam timing correct. so no you don't need it but it will keep the cam timing on both heads the same and not fluctuating on one head

Exactly my point weirdo.
Normally driven coyotes aren't jumping timing. Only ones that get the piss revved out of them jump timing. Or the ones that have faulty vct. Bracket not needed.

 

[wazslow]

Exactly my point weirdo.
Normally driven coyotes aren't jumping timing. Only ones that get the piss revved out of them jump timing. Or the ones that have faulty vct. Bracket not needed.

Is "wish i was fast" actually "Jackson1320"? Very similar communication style and this screen name just happened to pop up after "Jackson1320" was banned. Nah, probably just coincidence....

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