My IRS replace almost EVERYTHING and more

[kz]

So! I’m purposely avoiding adjusting this type of stuff myself, I’m horrible at it. I had a local before shop do the adjusting and alignment, they said it was one of the hardest they’ve had to do in awhile. But… that’s probably because I didn’t have the upper adjustable arms or the lower toe links close at all!!!
In theory I can have is adjusted to have a lot of camber since the toe links and upper arms are both adjustable! Even the BMR camber lockout I installed has two notched settings. So it still locks the factory slot out, but allows for two positions. I’ll include links!!!! I was driving this car daily 75-85 miles a day, so the slight camber from the factory set up was still enough to notice the bad uneven inner tire wear.

Thanks - I know all about adjusting, I currently have -2.5 degrees camber in the rear, less next season. Lockout just lock it out to prevent slipping of the inboard mount of the camber arm in the subframe slot - so if you had non-adjustable camber arms, you'd be stuck with whatever camber you got out of that.
Shop probably complained because rear alignment is pain in the ass - adjusting toe changes camber and changing camber changes toe. It needs couple of iterations.

Anyway - thanks for posting. I'll probably get those camber arms to try.

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[Leonidas514]

Sorry to hijack

So... I dropped the subframe today. What a piece of cake that was! I already had the diff out so 4 bolts. Now, like you said I cut the rubber bushings out and I'm left with just the collar inside the subframe. I've got all kinds of tools but no air chisel. Anybody have any other ideas? Torch, ball joint press? I was even thinking of laying a bottle jack between the bushings and using it as a press to pop them out. Thoughts?

 

[shogun32]

I'm left with just the collar inside the subframe. I've got all kinds of tools but no air chisel.

sawzall but carefully. Cold chisel. The camaro guys use a torch and heat the sucker till it's smoking since their's are glued in as well.

 

[Leonidas514]

sawzall but carefully. Cold chisel. The camaro guys use a torch and heat the sucker till it's smoking since their's are glued in as well.

Thank you man!

 

[waltgodisney]

Sorry to hijack

So... I dropped the subframe today. What a piece of cake that was! I already had the diff out so 4 bolts. Now, like you said I cut the rubber bushings out and I'm left with just the collar inside the subframe. I've got all kinds of tools but no air chisel. Anybody have any other ideas? Torch, ball joint press? I was even thinking of laying a bottle jack between the bushings and using it as a press to pop them out. Thoughts?

I used my sawzall and cut a bunch of slices in those collars, it’s worth taking your time so you don’t cut the subframe it self.

 

[Leonidas514]

Mission accomplished

Amazon Primed an air chisel and they came out. Thanks again man for the help.

 

[andrewtac]

Mission accomplished

Amazon Primed an air chisel and they came out. Thanks again man for the help.

Standby for the whine.

 

[waltgodisney]

Standby for the whine.

Are you doing the subframe to body bushings as well??

 

[andrewtac]

Are you doing the subframe to body bushings as well??

I did and have since went another route to reduce the whice; but not sure you meant to ask me.

And looking in the upper corner of the Pic looks like he did.

 

[Leonidas514]

Not many other options when doing a 9 Inc conversion. I've been told by several people that the G force rear end doesn't whine bad.

 

[andrewtac]

Not many other options when doing a 9 Inc conversion. I've been told by several people that the G force rear end doesn't whine bad.

Didn't realize you were going 9". I've heard the same about the 9, whine is less. That was my last resort if I couldn't quiet the whine. Someday I might still go there is the power level exceeds the 8.8.

 

[shogun32]

That was my last resort if I couldn't quiet the whine.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Uncorded-Earplugs-Conservation-312-1201/dp/B008MCU0N0
way cheaper.

 

[andrewtac]

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Uncorded-Earplugs-Conservation-312-1201/dp/B008MCU0N0
way cheaper.

True, but I sold my last car as it required ear plugs to not have ringing ears due to exhaust.

 

[Crowd Hunter]

I spent so much time and energy trying to fix the sloppiness in the rear subframe to body attachment on my S550. My 2016 would pull to the left on hard acceleration, and I could never get it sorted out. My current car has no bushings between the rear subframe and the body of the car. It makes for a much more solid foundation for everything else.

 

[shogun32]

I spent so much time and energy trying to fix the sloppiness in the rear subframe to body attachment on my S550. My 2016 would pull to the left on hard acceleration, and I could never get it sorted out. My current car has no bushings between the rear subframe and the body of the car. It makes for a much more solid foundation for everything else.

it doesn't take much. IRS bracing and fill the voids of the IRS/Chassis bushing isn't expensive (parts or labor) and gets most of the benefit. I drove my buds car before and after and the difference was palpable. It was a Magride car and it frankly wasn't very good before, but massively improved afterward. I test drove MR cars several times when looking to buy and it just wasn't much better than non. Even the GT350 was not up to snuff compared to SS/1LE. Had I known fixing the IRS would transform the nature of the car, I would have bought differently.

Ford needs to get their head right. a Mustang is a 'performance' car. Enough with this bullsh*t "sound abatement" that destroys the car's capabilities. If you want quiet go buy a damn nameless 4-door sedan. I've got every part bolted to mine and the extra NVH is hardly worth mentioning.

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