My experience with the MT82 - Brackets, Springs, Shifters, Lines, and Fluids

[spaz mk will]

2018+ Has a twin disk clutch and that’s part of why things are improved.

I’ve only had issues shifting into 2 near redline, even before the mods. Thats been almost entirely eliminated with the above mods unless I’m turning significantly during the shift, then the alignment of body mounted shifter to transmission still comes into play and it’ll take some effort/waiting to slide into 2. No issues with 3rd before or after mods.

MGW being trans mounted is a large part of what alleviates lockout, along with better feel/shorter throws. The Barton can be body or transmission mounted, something to be aware of.

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[TeeLew]

Honestly, your gripe is that reverse has a 'push' lockout instead of a 'pull'? At least tell me you appreciate how silly this complaint is.

Well, you want what you want, but as long as the shifter is body mounted, expect shifting problems. The MGW is mounted entirely on the box and does not lock out, period. Maybe the Barton is the same? I don't know.

 

[NGOT8R]

I'd get the MGW shifter if they ever make a lift-to-reverse version. When I contacted their support they said they had no plans to make one though.

Would Barton be my only option?

Barton isn’t your only option for retaining the factory lift to engage for reverse. Steeda makes the Tri-Ax Race Shifter. I installed one in my 2019 Bullitt, along with a braided ss clutch line and spring.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/steeda-tri-ax-st-race-shifter-question.147201/#post-3024167

 

[Wamp]

I'd get the MGW shifter if they ever make a lift-to-reverse version. When I contacted their support they said they had no plans to make one though.

Would Barton be my only option?

As you probably saw in my first post, I have the Steeda Triax (non race version). This is nothing more than a short shift lever, but it does maintain the factory reverse lockout method, if that’s important to you. It just won’t fix anything aside from the shift length.

 

[TeeLew]

As you probably saw in my first post, I have the Steeda Triax (non race version). This is nothing more than a short shift lever, but it does maintain the factory reverse lockout method, if that’s important to you. It just won’t fix anything aside from the shift length.

The Steeda options all retain the body mount, which means they'll always be inferior to the versions which mount directly to the box.

 

[Wamp]

The Steeda options all retain the body mount, which means they'll always be inferior to the versions which mount directly to the box.

Yeah, that’s the downside… I have the Steeda billet/poly shifter mount, so that helps a little… but it’s nothing like a true trans mount. I’m guessing the FTBR Bracket would get you there with the Steeda shifters, if you’re ok with the added vibration

 

[NGOT8R]

I’m not looking to go to war with anyone here, but it would seem to me that with the shifters mounting to the body, it would help make shifts more predictable than a trans mount shifter that has the ability to move more with the soft factory motor mounts. I do however, think that poly motor mounts would be a complement to either style of shifter though. When I installed my Steeda shifter, I did the poly motor mounts and the transmission bushing insert to eliminate the possibility of any unnecessary movement whatsoever.

 

[TeeLew]

Yeah, that’s the downside… I have the Steeda billet/poly shifter mount, so that helps a little… but it’s nothing like a true trans mount. I’m guessing the FTBR Bracket would get you there with the Steeda shifters, if you’re ok with the added vibration

I think this is potentially true. I don't know how much vibration the FTBR bracket introduces, but maybe it's no big deal. The vibration from the MGW is nil, so it's possible the combo you've suggested would be similar.

 

[Wamp]

I think this is potentially true. I don't know how much vibration the FTBR bracket introduces, but maybe it's no big deal. The vibration from the MGW is nil, so it's possible the combo you've suggested would be similar.

I’ve never had the bracket myself - but FTBR notes there will be vibration through the shift lever, and I’ve heard several people say they had the same experience.

FWIW the Steeda poly bracket helped a lot and I didn’t notice much of an NVH increase.

 

[spaz mk will]

I’m not looking to go to war with anyone here, but it would seem to me that with the shifters mounting to the body, it would help make shifts more predictable than a trans mount shifter that has the ability to move more with the soft factory motor mounts. I do however, think that poly motor mounts would be a complement to either style of shifter though. When I installed my Steeda shifter, I did the poly motor mounts and the transmission bushing insert to eliminate the possibility of any unnecessary movement whatsoever.

You’re correct that the factory mount will allow the transmission to rotate more with respect to the car body, but I disagree that it would hurt consistency. By mounting the shifter to the transmission, that mechanism is always aligned and should therefore be consistent, certainly more than the misaligned shifter to transmission linkage when the shifter is body mounted. There’s plenty of room for the shift knob to move a few degrees side to side but it won’t move so much that you should notice when transmission mounted.

 

[spaz mk will]

So I have done the Steeda clutch spring, Boomba 60D trans mount and I have the MGW Xspec shifter.

It is a major improvement but I wish I had gone with the 70D trans mount as it did help some of the slop and I honestly can't tell if it added an NVH at all.

I did come from a WRX which NVH is part of the package so I might just not even notice it as much as others would.

Next plan is to do the trans fluid and chassis stiffening.

Some feedback near the end of Boomba’s thread that makes me think you’re probably not missing much. A user claims the 60d feel basically just like the 70d without as much NVH. NVH is obviously very subjective and that person might be more sensitivite to it, but if it works well for you at 60d why bother worrying?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/boomba-transmission-mount.36876/page-8

 

[Wamp]

You’re correct that the factory mount will allow the transmission to rotate more with respect to the car body, but I disagree that it would hurt consistency. By mounting the shifter to the transmission, that mechanism is always aligned and should therefore be consistent, certainly more than the misaligned shifter to transmission linkage when the shifter is body mounted. There’s plenty of room for the shift knob to move a few degrees side to side but it won’t move so much that you should notice when transmission mounted.

If I understand correctly, mounting to the body will keep the shifter in the same place with respect to the body, regardless of how the trans moves, which can hurt consistency with shifts (the shifter will be in a slightly different place with respect to the trans).

in contrast, mounting the shifter to the trans will keep things perfectly consistent with respect to the trans, but the shifter can move freely(as the trans moves) inside the cabin.

 

[OnThree]

Don't waste your money, the only fix is a direct mounted shifter (MGW) and a new clutch.

That'll fix the lockout

 

[krishelnino]

I have a 2018 with the newer MT82-D4. I swapped to Steeda clutch spring as soon as I got the car. The clutch on 2018+ definitely feels different (much lighter) compared to 15-17. However the engagement point was kind of vague so the Steeda spring made an improvement in that aspect. My only gripe with the Steeda spring is that the clutch feels heavy at times and takes lot of effort to engage, I have no issues with it but most of my friends complain When I drive my friends cars like the Golf R and WRX STI, I realize how light their clutches are lol

The next thing I did was BG Syncroshift trans fluid which made slight improvement in the cold weather but nothing to write about. A year later I did the MGW X-spec. I did notice a increase in vibration from the shifter and it was very stiff for the first few days. After a few days it probably broke in, and also changed the knob to MGW gripper spherical knob. At this point, it just felt perfect. It was so smooth, the shifts were buttery smooth and precise, I simply loved it. The fun wouldn't last long however, soon after I dropped my car at the dealership to replace shift forks. The dealer probably put OEM trans fluid back in again. I was kind of lazy for a year to change it back but I definitely didn't like the way how my car shifted during this period.

So once again I switched back to BG Syncroshift fluid a month ago and definitely noticed the difference. My MGW shifter still doesn't feel like the way it did before the shift forks replacement but it works great with BG Syncroshift fluid so I'd HIGHLY recommend it

The steeda clutch to master cylinder line was a PITA to install lol. I spend a good hour cursing but couldn't get one of the clip to press in, so finally used a ziptie at that end. It didn't make any difference whatsoever

The next thing I have on my to-do list is Stainless clutch line.

 

[NGOT8R]

@krishelnino, I also have the Steeda clutch master cylinder line (packed away in my tool chest) and have been putting off installing it because of the tight fit to get the clip on the hose at the firewall end. If you had this to do over again, would you have left the factory line in place?

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