My experience with the MT82 - Brackets, Springs, Shifters, Lines, and Fluids

[Wamp]

I have a 2018 with the newer MT82-D4. I swapped to Steeda clutch spring as soon as I got the car. The clutch on 2018+ definitely feels different (much lighter) compared to 15-17. However the engagement point was kind of vague so the Steeda spring made an improvement in that aspect. My only gripe with the Steeda spring is that the clutch feels heavy at times and takes lot of effort to engage, I have no issues with it but most of my friends complain When I drive my friends cars like the Golf R and WRX STI, I realize how light their clutches are lol

The next thing I did was BG Syncroshift trans fluid which made slight improvement in the cold weather but nothing to write about. A year later I did the MGW X-spec. I did notice a increase in vibration from the shifter and it was very stiff for the first few days. After a few days it probably broke in, and also changed the knob to MGW gripper spherical knob. At this point, it just felt perfect. It was so smooth, the shifts were buttery smooth and precise, I simply loved it. The fun wouldn't last long however, soon after I dropped my car at the dealership to replace shift forks. The dealer probably put OEM trans fluid back in again. I was kind of lazy for a year to change it back but I definitely didn't like the way how my car shifted during this period.

So once again I switched back to BG Syncroshift fluid a month ago and definitely noticed the difference. My MGW shifter still doesn't feel like the way it did before the shift forks replacement but it works great with BG Syncroshift fluid so I'd HIGHLY recommend it

The steeda clutch to master cylinder line was a PITA to install lol. I spend a good hour cursing but couldn't get one of the clip to press in, so finally used a ziptie at that end. It didn't make any difference whatsoever

The next thing I have on my to-do list is Stainless clutch line.

Thanks for the D4 info… had been wondering how some of these things go on the D4.

@krishelnino, I also have the Steeda clutch master cylinder line (packed away in my tool chest) and have been putting off installing it because of the tight fit to get the clip on the hose at the firewall end. If you had this to do over again, would you have left the factory line in place?

I agree with @krishelnino, the Steeda line was a massive pain. The only improvement is peace of mind that the stock one won’t seep any more as the fluid heats up. After seeing the stock line leaking and almost falling off (it was barely hanging on), I wouldn’t want to do a track day or drive too aggressively with the stock line.

It fixed no symptoms, but it almost made me sick looking at the stock line barely hanging on.

Also, +1 about not being able to get the lower clip. I took it off and spend half hour trying to tighten a metal screw type clamp with a swivel ratchet… but I didn’t want to have that coming off either.

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[krishelnino]

@krishelnino, I also have the Steeda clutch master cylinder line (packed away in my tool chest) and have been putting off installing it because of the tight fit to get the clip on the hose at the firewall end. If you had this to do over again, would you have left the factory line in place?

I would absolutely not do it. I ordered this along with other Steeda parts just because why not it's so cheap and only takes few minutes to install. The video posted by Steeda is very misleading lol. It took me and my buddy atleast an hour and even then we couldn't get the clip at the firewall end tightened. I used couple of zipties to hold it in place and hopefully it won't ever come out. There's simply no space to work with near the firewall end and I had to twist my hand at awkward angles to get the hose to fit in first place

 

[NGOT8R]

I would absolutely not do it. I ordered this along with other Steeda parts just because why not it's so cheap and only takes few minutes to install. The video posted by Steeda is very misleading lol. It took me and my buddy atleast an hour and even then we couldn't get the clip at the firewall end tightened. I used couple of zipties to hold it in place and hopefully it won't ever come out. There's simply no space to work with near the firewall end and I had to twist my hand at awkward angles to get the hose to fit in first place

Right on! It’ll remain packed away in my tool chest unless I figure out an easier way to install it. Do you think a double wire spring clip such as this (in the correct diameter), would be easier to manage than the supplied Steeda clips?

 

[Wamp]

Right on! It’ll remain packed away in my tool chest unless I figure out an easier way to install it. Do you think a double wire spring clip such as this (in the correct diameter), would be easier to manage than the supplied Steeda clips?

It’s possible… but the real hard part is getting a pair of needle nose pliers to the clip. Even with a long pair. This clip would still have the same problem… which is why I went with the screw clamp.

 

[Check06]

I feel fortunate that i did the barton hybrid 3 shifter(Trans mounted) soon after the P1X install.
Personally havent had much lockout experience that i can really note with 7800rpm shifts. Stock clutch for now although its beginning to show its weakness so its on the list of to dos

 

[Wamp]

I feel fortunate that i did the barton hybrid 3 shifter(Trans mounted) soon after the P1X install.
Personally havent had much lockout experience that i can really note with 7800rpm shifts. Stock clutch for now although its beginning to show its weakness so its on the list of to dos

Wow. That’s awesome that you’re able to get 7800RPM shifts on the stock clutch without much issue.

Several people have posed the theory that the lockout is caused by the clutch, but is made worse by the deflection between the shifter and the trans…. Meaning a trans mounted shifter won’t fix lockout, but it’ll prevent most lockout.

Sounds like this may be true in your case. What year is your MT82?

 

[Check06]

Wow. That’s awesome that you’re able to get 7800RPM shifts on the stock clutch without much issue.

Several people have posed the theory that the lockout is caused by the clutch, but is made worse by the deflection between the shifter and the trans…. Meaning a trans mounted shifter won’t fix lockout, but it’ll prevent most lockout.

Sounds like this may be true in your case. What year is your MT82?

Hard to not want to run it out with that P1X

Car is a 2016 GT non-pp, stock trans with about 50k on it

 

[GregO]

I think this is potentially true. I don't know how much vibration the FTBR bracket introduces, but maybe it's no big deal. The vibration from the MGW is nil, so it's possible the combo you've suggested would be similar.

I’ve never had the bracket myself - but FTBR notes there will be vibration through the shift lever, and I’ve heard several people say they had the same experience.

FWIW the Steeda poly bracket helped a lot and I didn’t notice much of an NVH increase.

Boomba shifter, Full Tilt bracket with Steeda trans mount insert on my car.
I never understood all the threads and posts about horrible vibrations.
I started with the Steeda mount and the Farm Boy engineer in me wanted the shifter directly mounted to the transmission. I like the feeling in my palm, you know shits running and I can feel when it’s Tach’ed up to hit the next gear ………
I think I’m ready to try Boomba’s trans mount and ditch the Steeda insert next.

Motul Multi-DCTF, the stuff is like VooDoo fluid.

 

[Wamp]

Update:

Several new details.

FTBR Bracket
Had this on about 2 months now. Switched the Steeda Mount for a FTBR Bracket. Good news: lockouts are far more consistent, rather than random. Bad news: I lock out at 6500 every time, instead of 6000-7000ish.

Shifts are absolutely beautiful below 5000. The feel is so consistent, it just clicks right into gear. The trans “whine” is far more noticeable than I anticipated, it almost sounds like supercharger whine. My wife is not a fan.

BG Synchroshift and MCG additive
Did this 1 month ago. Several posts online talk about switching from Royal Purple to this cocktail. I was pretty doubtful it would be worth it… but WOW! Worlds better than stock, and far better than RP. Never would have guessed the fluid would change shifting like it did. Far smoother now. It did not help lockout at all, though.

McLeod RST
I’m getting really sick of lockout. Car is now apart, working on this install. Should be done later this weekend. All reputable sources seem to indicate lockout is a clutch problem, so I finally shelled out the cash for a real clutch. I’ll keep you all posted.

Worth noting… to do this install, the FTBR bracket and BMR CB006 brace had to come off. Added a good chunk of time to the clutch install.

 

[Wamp]

Completed the install of a McLeod RST clutch, lightened steel flywheel, and throwout bearing last week. Took 21 hours by myself on 17 inch Jack stands. I wouldn’t ever recommend this install, done this way, to anyone I like. I’ll do a full write-up soon.

Drove 100 miles over the last week in stop and go traffic. Clutch had 3k miles on it… so I think that’s a sufficient break-in period.

I gave it some gas on the way to work, managed to miss/grind 3rd at 6500. Repeated 3x with the same results. Works great at lower RPMs. That really sucks. New clutch, same issue.

I honestly thought the clutch was the solution to lockout. Wondering if the MGW is needed to correct the grinding.

 

[NGOT8R]

Do you have polyurethane motor mounts on the car? perhaps Engine is torquing over causing the lockout or missed shifts?

 

[Wamp]

Do you have polyurethane motor mounts on the car? perhaps Engine is torquing over causing the lockout or missed shifts?

Stock engine mounts. Wouldn’t surprise me if the engine mounts are worn out… but I’ve never heard anyone complain of engine mounts causing shifter lockout. Totally possible, just haven’t heard much discussion about this.

To clarify, it’s not a smooth, “can’t get into the gate” lockout. It’s a, pop halfway into the gate, then grind 3rd lockout.

The first 1/10 second of my 1-2 shift is a grind also, but it goes into gear at least. It’s done that very consistently since I switched from the steeda bracket to the FTBR.

 

[NGOT8R]

Here’s an old link from another member here.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/installed-steeda-motor-mounts-install-write-up.75299/

 

[WildHorse]

Myself; MT82 D5, my own custom clutch pedal spring, stock clutch, stock shifter, 2qts RP synchromesh, .75qt 75w140, 7500 rpm shifts zero issues for the most part.

 

[OnThree]

OP, you sound allot like me.

Not trying to scare you but I had a RST, MGW, and BG racing fluid and my car would still not shift into 4th clean when getting on it. It would either grind or just not go in. Hopefully you don't have a synchro issue going on because no amount of mods will fix that unless you get the synchro fixed.

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