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My audio install thread. Shaker complete overhaul.

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z06psi

z06psi

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I actually don't remember that model.



Here are some pics from today.

Drilled through to the interior. (Andrew, why didn't you just use the big grommet? Air line and all the power for the compressors.)

20180227_084552.jpg


I used these weatherproof pass throughs. This is a water collection area and to assist the rubber gasket that comes with them I laid some RTV down.

20180227_093440.jpg


Rivet nuts for the circuit breaker (200A). I know this is a water route area but I will keep an eye on it and move it if I need to. I think it will be fine.

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Kids, this is how you do your power distribution wires. Do not skimp!

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The other wire(s) I had to run were for the Fore Fuel system.

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20180227_113325.jpg


All done! Everything is ran back to the amp rack. I will tackle the Audio cabling down the driver's side this weekend and maybe my longtubes as well. Might actually have the stereo wrapped up then.

20180227_114437.jpg
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Everything is hooked up now minus the fuse/breaker open.

20180227_171218.jpg



Everything put back in place.
20180227_171332.jpg
 

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Love the use of the ferrule on the power wire, smart!
 
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Is there a good place to buy just a few of those ferrules at a time and not have to buy packs of 50+?
 

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That support is a great cable trough.
20180301_170941.jpg


Had the horse laying around from my front grill.
20180301_170330.jpg
 
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So I took this last weekend and installed my longtubes but I did a little work yesterday and some today. Amp rack is completely wired. Just have to install the TwK-88 in place of the factory DSP/amp and then plug it all up.


Chaos. :D
IMG_20180204_0001.jpg
 
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Basically sound deadened the entire car from the front seats backwards through the trunk. Ran all the wires up front. Next up is to install the TwK-88 in place of the factory DSP/amp.
 

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Can you tell me a little about the harnesses? Do they plug into the harnesses that would've gone into the factory amp/dsp or do they go in behind the radio? I see that the one is a pre-amp out harness, but what are the other two and where do they go?

I spent $3k to have a well-regarded shop install a DSP, 3way set up front, with 10" sub in the back. Everything sounds absolutely awful, I have a feeling the shop had no idea how to wire this car.

Lots of soldering to do. These are all the signal and speaker wires. The two red/redblack wires are for the tweeters.

Thanks to Hextall for the connectors to interface with the factory wiring.

The Twik 88 will go where the factory amp/dsp is now. The two blue 9 conductor cables and 5sets of RCAs will run down the driver's side and the main power wire will go down the passenger side.

Front input to DSP
Mids channel one
Tweets channel two
Highs channel three
Center channel four

Rear input to amp
Sub out to mono amp

20180220_112543.jpg
 

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Can you tell me a little about the harnesses? Do they plug into the harnesses that would've gone into the factory amp/dsp or do they go in behind the radio? I see that the one is a pre-amp out harness, but what are the other two and where do they go?

I spent $3k to have a well-regarded shop install a DSP, 3way set up front, with 10" sub in the back. Everything sounds absolutely awful, I have a feeling the shop had no idea how to wire this car.
Yes the harnesses plug directly into the stock wiring for whatever options your car had. They break the wiring out for the speakers and give you a RCA output F/R.

Hextall is the man to talk to as he made them.

The only input I can give is that the cables are made to another level of quality.
 

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I spent $3k to have a well-regarded shop install a DSP, 3way set up front, with 10" sub in the back. Everything sounds absolutely awful, I have a feeling the shop had no idea how to wire this car.
If I had to guess, it's less likely to be a wiring issue than a programming one.

You have to change some settings in the ACM in order to enable a relatively flat 4V preout source that will give you the best results with aftermarket DSPs and amps.

What you need to do is get setup to use FORScan and check the settings of your ACM to see if they even bothered. If they didn't, start there.

It's a garbage in, garbage out situation otherwise.
 
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So it is all done. The only thing I do not like is the Remote signal sensing turn on from the TwK-88. If I am on the phone and someone stops talking there is no audio signal going to the amp so it shuts off.

The sub amp is actually directly connected to the rear output of the Sync3 so maybe I could route the RCA output over to channel 4 (unused) to keep the audio signal coming in.


20180410_085724.jpg

TwK-88 install where the factory amp went.
20180411_082525.jpg

All wired up.
20180411_082547.jpg

All put up.
20180411_082828.jpg
 

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So it is all done. The only thing I do not like is the Remote signal sensing turn on from the TwK-88. If I am on the phone and someone stops talking there is no audio signal going to the amp so it shuts off.
Just a thought - if you are looking for a remote turn-on signal source, the power going to the 12v power point (cig lighter) would be where I would start.

For one, you can configure the timeout for it in FORScan. By default it's like fifteen minutes or something, but I have mine set to one second. The timeout countdown starts when you turn off the car and open the driver's side door. So when you set it to one second, it's effectively identical to what the car's stereo is doing.
 

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Damn, looks awesome. :headbang: :thumbsup:

Hextall's harness should have a remote signal out. That's what I used and it works like mentioned above.
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