MrTej
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
I got the audio bug after reading threads in this forum and missing a good sounding stereo system. I decided to re-live my youth and tear my 2018 GT with the Shaker 12-speaker system apart and put it back together again with all new stuff .
I researched for about a month and then took a week off of work and spent the entire time in the garage, cutting fingers, losing skin on sheet metal, getting burned by solder, contorting my body into positions it’s not designed to be in anymore, etc., etc., but I’m happy with the results.
I decided to go with a 3-way active system and replaced all front speakers with Hertz Mille Pros. I eliminated the center channel and rear speakers. JL Audio Stealthbox in the trunk. Powering the system are a JL Audio RD900/5 driving the front drivers, mid ranges, and sub, and an RD400/4 driving the tweeters.
I went with the Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 for processing, along with the iDatalink Maestro harness for wiring simplicity. I have a lot to learn with programming it, but the good news is I don’t have any kind of interference or unwanted noise coming through the speakers currently.
I did all the other typical stuff people are doing- FORScan, sound deadening, lots of zip ties and Tessa tape, etc. I can share more details if anyone wants.
Here are some pictures. Hopefully this will help others with some additional ideas for your builds.
Bottom layer of amp rack:
I added a false floor that slides back so I can access the ground wire location In the factory bracket:
I used the other hole in the bracket to secure the amp rack to the floor (note the fender washer in the middle):
Finished amp rack. All wiring is Tessa taped and aligned with the grooves in the spare tire well:
All that work just to hide it!
I mounted the DSR-1 to the factory amp mount, and zip tied the RCA harness to minimize stress on the wires:
The usb adaptor is just long enough to connect to the laptop when mounted in the factory location, or I can remove the 3 mounting bolts (2 bottom ones are 10mm and top one is 8mm) and pull it down. I tried using a usb extension cable With the DSR adaptor but it did not work.
I mounted my JL remote bass knob in the center console, replacing the 12-volt outlet in there. I used two 1 1/2 inch fender washers. On the back side , I used a utility knife to cut a slit wide enough to hold the washer in place:
I used black plasti-dip spray on the front washer along with the RBC mounting hardware to give it a finished look:
Mounted in the center console:
I still have to learn about and perform all of the DSP tuning and setting amp gains.
Special thanks to @StangTime, @thill444, @hobbie1, and @5.0_SD for your inspiration and help with all my questions. It has been much appreciated!
I researched for about a month and then took a week off of work and spent the entire time in the garage, cutting fingers, losing skin on sheet metal, getting burned by solder, contorting my body into positions it’s not designed to be in anymore, etc., etc., but I’m happy with the results.
I decided to go with a 3-way active system and replaced all front speakers with Hertz Mille Pros. I eliminated the center channel and rear speakers. JL Audio Stealthbox in the trunk. Powering the system are a JL Audio RD900/5 driving the front drivers, mid ranges, and sub, and an RD400/4 driving the tweeters.
I went with the Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 for processing, along with the iDatalink Maestro harness for wiring simplicity. I have a lot to learn with programming it, but the good news is I don’t have any kind of interference or unwanted noise coming through the speakers currently.
I did all the other typical stuff people are doing- FORScan, sound deadening, lots of zip ties and Tessa tape, etc. I can share more details if anyone wants.
Here are some pictures. Hopefully this will help others with some additional ideas for your builds.
Bottom layer of amp rack:
I added a false floor that slides back so I can access the ground wire location In the factory bracket:
I used the other hole in the bracket to secure the amp rack to the floor (note the fender washer in the middle):
Finished amp rack. All wiring is Tessa taped and aligned with the grooves in the spare tire well:
All that work just to hide it!
I mounted the DSR-1 to the factory amp mount, and zip tied the RCA harness to minimize stress on the wires:
The usb adaptor is just long enough to connect to the laptop when mounted in the factory location, or I can remove the 3 mounting bolts (2 bottom ones are 10mm and top one is 8mm) and pull it down. I tried using a usb extension cable With the DSR adaptor but it did not work.
I mounted my JL remote bass knob in the center console, replacing the 12-volt outlet in there. I used two 1 1/2 inch fender washers. On the back side , I used a utility knife to cut a slit wide enough to hold the washer in place:
I used black plasti-dip spray on the front washer along with the RBC mounting hardware to give it a finished look:
Mounted in the center console:
I still have to learn about and perform all of the DSP tuning and setting amp gains.
Special thanks to @StangTime, @thill444, @hobbie1, and @5.0_SD for your inspiration and help with all my questions. It has been much appreciated!
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