Mustang Dyno Tests

[wazslow]

Just to clarify for me, when you say autos dyno less, that is just because you can't hold a gear right? Still make the same HP but can't record it? I'm looking into a auto but don't want a underpowered car.

Motors make the same amount of power no matter if it's an auto or stick car. An automatic transmission generally takes more power to turn (friction, torque convertor, etc), leaving you with a little less power measured at the rear wheels on a dyno. The auto's are generally quicker at the drag strip where it matters though.

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[arrow94]

Just to clarify for me, when you say autos dyno less, that is just because you can't hold a gear right? Still make the same HP but can't record it? I'm looking into a auto but don't want a underpowered car.

Cars lose some power through the drivetrain. The autos dyno less due to a higher percentage of drivetrain loss. A manual loses about 15 percent whereas an auto Loses about 20 percent.

 

[Mark5825]

I'm sure people won't like me doing this but I re-ran the exact same car on a DynoJet out of curiousity and got 391 HP. That's a 13% increase from the Mustang to DynoJet. One thing that seemed odd (to me) is he ran the first test at 369 HP then he said it made 391 HP on the 2nd run because he went to redline. Is it standard to do a warm up and then do a redline? I'll still be going back to the original shop to get a custom tune so we'll see how that turns out.

 

[Trackaholic]

I'm sure people won't like me doing this but I re-ran the exact same car on a DynoJet out of curiousity and got 391 HP. That's a 13% increase from the Mustang to DynoJet. One thing that seemed odd (to me) is he ran the first test at 369 HP then he said it made 391 HP on the 2nd run because he went to redline. Is it standard to do a warm up and then do a redline? I'll still be going back to the original shop to get a custom tune so we'll see how that turns out.

I would expect the car to be warmed up before either of the dyno runs, and then I'd want to get a few runs, all going to redline. This would help average out some of the noise and also show how well the car could handle multiple hard runs.

I don't think I've seen anyone not finish a run to redline when the power is still increasing. I have seen some stop short if the power falls off early, but even that is pretty rare.

But, the two runs you have look pretty consistent to each other, so I wouldn't worry that only the second went to redline. I suspect the first would have looked the same anyway.

-T

 

[Todd15Fastback]

Just to clarify for me, when you say autos dyno less, that is just because you can't hold a gear right? Still make the same HP but can't record it? I'm looking into a auto but don't want a underpowered car.

Auto's are consistently faster in the 1/4 mile vs. manuals. By buying an auto, your car is not underpowered.

 

[Dave2013M3]

Got a Mustang Dyno done today. 1st run was with Ford Racing Touring Exhaust, 2nd run was with JLT intake and Lund tune added. I was pretty disappointed in the numbers but I guess the Mustang Dyno is typically 10-15% lower compared to the Dyno Jet’s. Just a quick look if you add 12.5% to my numbers the top HP comes out to 388 and Torque at 370 so I’ll just believe those lol. Going back Monday to get a custom tune. (Auto, 3.15 gears and no performance package.)

1st Run – 335 HP, 329 Torque (I’ll get graph next week)
2nd Run – 345 HP, 329 Torque

You need to do some data logging. That graph looks pretty erratic like its pulling timing or something.

Dave

 

[Laztug]

BAH! Don't worry about dyno numbers.
My heap couldn't put down 420rwhp, but it runs like a champ.

 

[Mr Monte]

Here's my dyno from my 2013 auto Mustang with Corsa Exhaust. All the 5.0 dynos I've seen have the torque bump at 4k rpms.

I wouldn't get stuck on the actual dyno numbers those can very from dyno to dyno and operator to operator. The graph line tells the story and yours has something odd going on.

2013 Mustang GT auto with Corsa exhaust


I dynoed my Mustang & SS Sedan a week apart & on the same dyno by the same tech.

2014 SS Sedan - 100% 6.2L LS3 auto

 

[Mark5825]

What is data logging/can I just ask for them to send me a file or something?

When y'all say my graph line looks odd can you explain? I figured the shop would have made a comment on that after I was asking about everything but since the plan was to do the custom tune they might not have looking into this run that much.

I guess after everything so far the biggest anomaly so far is only gaining 10 HP and 0 TQ from catback to intake & Lund tune. Hopefully the custom tune on Monday will go well. Having a chance to drive it more, I do feel a noticeable difference which is a nice takeaway.

Thanks for the input from everyone, wish I could go run the 1/4 mile tonight but I don't think it works well with 50+% of rain.

 

[cobra199711]

Have u contacted Lund? that tune and intake should have netted 25+ compared to the catback. It doesnt make sense....

 

[beefcake]

nothing odd about not running a car to full rpm out of the gate and looking feeling to make sure everything sounds right on a car.

the autos are going to dyno considerably less for 2 reasons

1) they lose about 5% more through the drivetrain, the 15s in particular don't want to lock the converter on the dyno, so your going to show an even higher percent

that's why you see them dynoing 30+ hp less

as far as "paying for a custom tune", you already have a custom tune for your vehicle, silly to spend any more $$ out of pocket.

all your guys seem to be scared of rpm too, shutting her down at 6400

but if you make 391 @ 6400, car is just fine for an auto

 

[Mark5825]

391 is a bit irrelevant because there was no baseline but it was nice encouragement and just did it for fun. What's your opinion on the 10 HP 0 TQ gain from the intake and Lund tune? As for redline it was just a question as I wasn't sure what standard procedure was.

 

[beefcake]

You really need logs, before and after,

a simple difference of a few degrees in operating temp can make a 20-30hp difference

what we typically do, is make 3 pulls, back to back, and log all three pulls.

then make the changes, and make 3 pulls back to back, and log all three pulls

then we look at the data logs, look at things like operating temp, the air coming in, etc..

you can't just "throw a car on the dyno" make 1 pull, make changes, then make another, especially with no data.

On the second pull, the car may have been pulling timing, but you don't know, because there are no data logs

it could pull timing due to air temp, coolant temp, fuel quality.

If the fuel is really bad, and the car can't get any more timing, it's not going to make any more power

but again, without logs, the info really is useless

if you want to know what the car is doing, you need to "see" what the car is doing"

with the e85 in our 2015 for example. If the coolant temp is below 195 degrees on the pull, car will get about 13-15 degrees of timing and make 40-60 less rwhp than if we pull It at 195 degrees and gets 19 degrees of timing we are wanting..

 

[Mark5825]

Are logs something they typically give out and I just have to ask or is there more to it? So then you/Lund can take a closer look.
More curiosity on my part but how bad/good is a test at 91 deg. and 50% humitity

 

[foghat]

Are logs something they typically give out and I just have to ask or is there more to it? So then you/Lund can take a closer look.

What tuner do you have? I assume sct x4? you can log on that. So while they are dynoing, you have the sct plugged in and turn logging on before you start the run and turn it off after the pull is completed. Rinse, repeat for each run.

You can also log by doing pulls on the street. I am not sure what gear you are supposed to do the pull in in this car. I would guess 3rd. Is tricky though you need to log at wide open throttle from about 2000rpm to redline. So safety! Need to find a abandoned road or something to do this.

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