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Mustang 2016 windshield wipers don´t work

akmon

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Good night.
I wanted to ask you for advice on where to focus this failure that I detect in my 2016 Mustang GT. Sorry for my translation.

From time to time I plug in Forscan in my car to see DTCs and clear them. A couple of months ago some DTCs came out in the SCCM module. The codes are B1131:08-0A winshield wiper motor module signal / message bus anomalies and B10AD:08-0A the same for the rain sensor. I used to be able to clear the DTCs, but now I can't clear them. No matter how much I do it over and over again, it doesn't go away even for a moment. It always remains.
I have tried many things with Forscan: I have tried rebooting the SCCM module, I have tried disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. I have removed the front parking sensor (xvision, it is housed in fuse 72 engine fuse box that powers the rain sensor module) I have put another fuse at number 72. I have disconnected relays 26 and 80 and reconnected. Nothing. I assume that the front parking sensor does not work. The problem is that the windshield wipers and the windshield washer do not work either. Due to the evolution of this fault and the information from Forscan, I believe it is some wiring problem. My concern about taking it to the Ford dealer is that they will be changing parts, the windshield wiper motor, the steering wheel levers, etc and the enormous cost they are going to demand. I hate these kind of problems with so many electronics issues around. Could you give me some advice on where I should direct the investigation? Problems in the SCCM module? Review the electrical installation? (I don't have a diagram) I am very grateful for any help you can provide me.
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ORRadtech

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My WAG is that you have a broken wire somewhere or possibly a bad ground.
To find your problem you're going to need a Factory Service Manual with a wiring diagram and some testing equipment. A bare minimum of equipment is a digital voltage ohm meter (DVOM). Test lights, a bidirectional scan tool and a small oscilloscope would be extremely helpful as well. There are also "pay" services that can provide tons of information, Identafix & Mitchell 1 come to mind. You can sometimes buy short term access for reasonable prices.
All of that depends on your repair experience/skill set and the time and effort you are willing to put in.
Here's someplace to check for a repair manual, I'm sure a Google search will turn up more.
Good luck, wiring can be a real bitch to hunt down.
https://www.emanualonline.com/
 
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akmon

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My WAG is that you have a broken wire somewhere or possibly a bad ground.
To find your problem you're going to need a Factory Service Manual with a wiring diagram and some testing equipment. A bare minimum of equipment is a digital voltage ohm meter (DVOM). Test lights, a bidirectional scan tool and a small oscilloscope would be extremely helpful as well. There are also "pay" services that can provide tons of information, Identafix & Mitchell 1 come to mind. You can sometimes buy short term access for reasonable prices.
All of that depends on your repair experience/skill set and the time and effort you are willing to put in.
Here's someplace to check for a repair manual, I'm sure a Google search will turn up more.
Good luck, wiring can be a real bitch to hunt down.
https://www.emanualonline.com/
I appreciate the information provided. I have been lucky that there is a link in this forum to the procedure manual for a Mustang from the same year, 2016, which has been great for me. All of these processes are beyond my abilities, so what I have done is pass relevant data from said manual, such as wiring diagrams, procedures, etc. to the mechanic who is going to service my car next Friday. Let see what happens, I´ll write here with the results.

https://drive.usercontent.google.co...3Hfk-2OZP3jhjbbSOT&export=download&authuser=0
 

Garfy

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I appreciate the information provided. I have been lucky that there is a link in this forum to the procedure manual for a Mustang from the same year, 2016, which has been great for me. All of these processes are beyond my abilities, so what I have done is pass relevant data from said manual, such as wiring diagrams, procedures, etc. to the mechanic who is going to service my car next Friday. Let see what happens, I´ll write here with the results.

https://drive.usercontent.google.co...3Hfk-2OZP3jhjbbSOT&export=download&authuser=0
FYI most modern vehicles today are controlled by modules, not the switches like in the old days. Switches are merely inputs into the modules which then usually use relays to control higher current devices like motors so I suspect it'll turn out to be some relay or even the module itself. Wiring issues are rare unless you have some critters chomping on them, etc.
 
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akmon

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FYI most modern vehicles today are controlled by modules, not the switches like in the old days. Switches are merely inputs into the modules which then usually use relays to control higher current devices like motors so I suspect it'll turn out to be some relay or even the module itself. Wiring issues are rare unless you have some critters chomping on them, etc.
Thanks for the advice. I hope it is a simple relay, which is easy to change and cheap. I cross my fingers.
I have left the car in a trusted workshop, not official at the moment, since I do not have such advanced scanning tools or electronic devices. Let's see what the verdict is, the time spent and possible parts to change.
 

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akmon

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FYI most modern vehicles today are controlled by modules, not the switches like in the old days. Switches are merely inputs into the modules which then usually use relays to control higher current devices like motors so I suspect it'll turn out to be some relay or even the module itself. Wiring issues are rare unless you have some critters chomping on them, etc.
Hello again. For giving an end to this story. I just picked up the car from the shop. You were right: it was a faulty relay. Luckily it was not a more expensive piece. I still had to wait a few days because the part was not in stock. It worries me a little that although the official Ford dealer has requested the relay code 8t2t14b192ab, and instead, they have brought the code gu5t-14b192-ga. I don't know why. It is slightly different from the others but in any case the windshield wipers and the aftermarket parking sensor work. I think I'll buy another one to keep in the glove compartment just in case. thanks for your advice. They have been very useful.


Thanks for your advice. They have been very useful.
 

Garfy

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Hello again. For giving an end to this story. I just picked up the car from the shop. You were right: it was a faulty relay. Luckily it was not a more expensive piece. I still had to wait a few days because the part was not in stock. It worries me a little that although the official Ford dealer has requested the relay code 8t2t14b192ab, and instead, they have brought the code gu5t-14b192-ga. I don't know why. It is slightly different from the others but in any case the windshield wipers and the aftermarket parking sensor work. I think I'll buy another one to keep in the glove compartment just in case. thanks for your advice. They have been very useful.


Thanks for your advice. They have been very useful.
Glad to hear you got it fixed. As for part numbers, sometimes they change because they may have superceded the part with an "improved" version. It may even look a little different than the original; the main thing is that it fits into the socket and works.
 
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akmon

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Glad to hear you got it fixed. As for part numbers, sometimes they change because they may have superceded the part with an "improved" version. It may even look a little different than the original; the main thing is that it fits into the socket and works.
Here are a picture with the differences:

Cqbhc8a.webp


5belEfh.webp
 

Garfy

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Here are a picture with the differences:

Cqbhc8a.jpg


5belEfh.jpg
Looks fairly similar except the new one has grooves at the top part of the relay case and the fact that the printing at the top is 180 degrees offset. As long as it's working fine that's all that matters.
 

Garfy

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Looks fairly similar except the new one has grooves at the top part of the relay case and the fact that the printing at the top is 180 degrees offset. As long as it's working fine that's all that matters.
BTW just FYI, I checked the relays in my 2020 and all of them are the GU5T models like your new replacement so I guess the old 8T2T was are superceded.
 
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akmon

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BTW just FYI, I checked the relays in my 2020 and all of them are the GU5T models like your new replacement so I guess the old 8T2T was are superceded.
Thank you for this useful information. Then, it confirms the reason of the change of the order. Hope it will work even better -or not- as it is supposed to be an updated product.
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