Multi Year Ceramic Coating - When is too much?

[MAGS1]

I’m glad this thread came up at a perfect time. I was going to look into a PPF for the new Mach. I really don’t want to spend that kind of money for a car that’s going to be driven maybe 5000 miles a year. Maybe less. The ceramic coating might be better. I’m gonna have to look at it as I only picked it up today. Great advice by everybody. Thank you.

The PPF will give you the benefit of protection against rock chips whereas the ceramic coating. Just depends if you want that extra protection or not. I weighed getting PPF to help protect against road salt and chips but decided I didn’t feel like it was necessary with a GT. Had I bought a Mach 1 I probably would have.

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[daSNAK3]

I am from McHenry, Joe knows his stuff and I would trust him in whatever he says.

 

[Ballistica]

I am from McHenry, Joe knows his stuff and I would trust him in whatever he says.

Yeah, I've been very happy with his service. He's upfront and won't charge you if he feels that your vehicle doesn't need a particular service (he didn't charge me for cleaning the interior of the mustang when I brought it in to be detailed prior to going into storage. Said it was clean already and there wasn't much he could do other than wipe everything down.). He also gave me a complimentary ceramic coating for my truck's windshield when I brought it in for winter prep.

I feel that kind of service is kinda rare nowadays. And I'm much happier to support a small business like his instead of going to a place like Fast Eddies.

 

[daSNAK3]

Yeah, I've been very happy with his service. He's upfront and won't charge you if he feels that your vehicle doesn't need a particular service (he didn't charge me for cleaning the interior of the mustang when I brought it in to be detailed prior to going into storage. Said it was clean already and there wasn't much he could do other than wipe everything down.). He also gave me a complimentary ceramic coating for my truck's windshield when I brought it in for winter prep.

I feel that kind of service is kinda rare nowadays. And I'm much happier to support a small business like his instead of going to a place like Fast Eddies.

Oh yea, for sure.. can't wait to move back to that area, so I can start bringing him my cars again. He's a pretty solid dude.

 

[Ballistica]

Oh yea, for sure.. can't wait to move back to that area, so I can start bringing him my cars again. He's a pretty solid dude.

His dog is awesome, kept me company in the waiting area while he was working on the truck.

 

[DFB5.0]

The real-world longevity you get from a ceramic coating will come down to a variety of factors.

- Usage patterns
A garage queen will be much easier on the coating, a daily the opposite. For example, I can get 12 - 18 months out of a basic wax on one of my garage queens.

- Maintenance
This is a touchy subject; I find people who are not necessarily detail oriented think that the ceramic coating will make their car bulletproof and therefore don't need care for the coating. Correct washing and a regular maintenance spray product will help you achieve the stated durability claims.

- Product type
The chemical make up of the coating will determine the longevity. Some products will give 6 - 12 months, others 2 -3 years, others 5 - 7 - 10 years.

A couple of things to consider when selecting a coating durability time -

- Most cars need a polish at least every couple of years, no matter how safely you wash and treat the car. Let's say you are 3 years into a 5-year coating and the car has an accumulation of light swirls, perhaps a mark here and there. Are you going to live with those marks to preserve the coating, or sacrifice the remaining 2 years of the coating by polishing them out? A 5, 7 or 10 coating may sound desirable, and it certainly can be, but you do need to consider this senario.

- Maintaining a coating is just a laborious as maintaining a wax or sealant. Washing is as per normal, but the coating longevity is all down to using appropriate cleaners, soaps and maintenance sprays. The important aspect is that maintenance spray. For example, if you have a Carpro coating, you will top this with Reload every 6 - 8 months. Consider if this is something you want to do yourself or have it back to the installer for a maintenance detail.

Looking at the list linked, I would select one of the shorter 2- or 3-year coatings with a polish prior to application, this will give you more options down the track. If the car is garage kept like you say, the 3-year coating will easily reach that claim.

 

[kilobravo]

D listed everything I was going to say and then some. I too would go with the shorter life option but as D said, it is as much about the maintenance as the coating itself when it comes to longevity.

 

[Ballistica]

The real-world longevity you get from a ceramic coating will come down to a variety of factors.

- Usage patterns
A garage queen will be much easier on the coating, a daily the opposite. For example, I can get 12 - 18 months out of a basic wax on one of my garage queens.

- Maintenance
This is a touchy subject; I find people who are not necessarily detail oriented think that the ceramic coating will make their car bulletproof and therefore don't need care for the coating. Correct washing and a regular maintenance spray product will help you achieve the stated durability claims.

- Product type
The chemical make up of the coating will determine the longevity. Some products will give 6 - 12 months, others 2 -3 years, others 5 - 7 - 10 years.

A couple of things to consider when selecting a coating durability time -

- Most cars need a polish at least every couple of years, no matter how safely you wash and treat the car. Let's say you are 3 years into a 5-year coating and the car has an accumulation of light swirls, perhaps a mark here and there. Are you going to live with those marks to preserve the coating, or sacrifice the remaining 2 years of the coating by polishing them out? A 5, 7 or 10 coating may sound desirable, and it certainly can be, but you do need to consider this senario.

- Maintaining a coating is just a laborious as maintaining a wax or sealant. Washing is as per normal, but the coating longevity is all down to using appropriate cleaners, soaps and maintenance sprays. The important aspect is that maintenance spray. For example, if you have a Carpro coating, you will top this with Reload every 6 - 8 months. Consider if this is something you want to do yourself or have it back to the installer for a maintenance detail.

Looking at the list linked, I would select one of the shorter 2- or 3-year coatings with a polish prior to application, this will give you more options down the track. If the car is garage kept like you say, the 3-year coating will easily reach that claim.

This is a great write up, thank you for taking the time. This further cements my decision to get a shorter 2-3 year application and then work to maintain it as the detailer recommends.

Thank you!

 

[Panzerkitten]

I did a track pack PPF on my GT and 1 year coating. I shopped a couple places, and they offered 4-5 years coatings for 1600-2000, and you'd have to come in every year for a touch up/warranty visit any way which was like $100. The place I chose did 1 year for $400 including the detail work, and thats the same every year assuming the business sticks around. So basically, its the same cost over 5 years, but I get a fresh coat every year and less cash up front.

 

[MattMPA]

I have an excellent PPF guy local to me. He did the PPF on the first third of the GT. I did my own ceramic coating with Duragloss Enviroshield. I've put this on every car we have, except for one. (Haven;t gotten to it yet) Supposed to last 2 years outside. It may not be for everyone, but works exceptionally well for me.

 

[Jackismydog]

I'd go with PPF and 1 or 2 years max ceramic protection. I've had a Protex PPF done for the front and this is fantastic. Almost invisible, very very high shine and offers way better protection again stone chips than a ceramic.

For me a ceramic coating offers almost zero to none protection from the roads debris. Same concern about washing and damages that could happen when processing it . This all depends on the method and rigor/discipline used in the washing process. At minimum the 2 buckets process with verified mitts/mf to make sure there is no debris. Also 1 mitt for the hood, top, trunk and top to mid of the sides and another mitt for the front, bottom of the sides, rear bottom bumper. I've a Carpro UK3 coating done and the washing process is way easier as the slickness is incredible.

Under normal conditions I wash the Mustang without contact! ! First snow foam with lift, wait 5 minutes , rince, 2nd snow foam with reset wait 2 minutes rinse and then use my WORX WG520 blower and... done! Use mf to remove the remaining water but this is a very very light process as there is almost no water residue.

 

[Ballistica]

I'd go with PPF and 1 or 2 years max ceramic protection. I've had a Protex PPF done for the front and this is fantastic. Almost invisible, very very high shine and offers way better protection again stone chips than a ceramic.

For me a ceramic coating offers almost zero to none protection from the roads debris. Same concern about washing and damages that could happen when processing it . This all depends on the method and rigor/discipline used in the washing process. At minimum the 2 buckets process with verified mitts/mf to make sure there is no debris. Also 1 mitt for the hood, top, trunk and top to mid of the sides and another mitt for the front, bottom of the sides, rear bottom bumper. I've a Carpro UK3 coating done and the washing process is way easier as the slickness is incredible.

Under normal conditions I wash the Mustang without contact! ! First snow foam with lift, wait 5 minutes , rince, 2nd snow foam with reset wait 2 minutes rinse and then use my WORX WG520 blower and... done! Use mf to remove the remaining water but this is a very very light process as there is almost no water residue.

I’m interested in learning more about your touchless workflow. Which manufacture do you use for the snow foam, etc? Does this process work for wheels and when the mustang is really dirty?

I’ve been hearing more and more good things about the PPF. I think I’ll have to look harder into this as the weather warms up.

 

[Jackismydog]

I’m interested in learning more about your touchless workflow. Which manufacture do you use for the snow foam, etc? Does this process work for wheels and when the mustang is really dirty?

I’ve been hearing more and more good things about the PPF. I think I’ll have to look harder into this as the weather warms up.

FOr the "lift" and "reset" snow foam, they come from Carpro. really, really good product and those have been created to work especially with ceramic coatings. For the wheel, you must have those ceramic coated in order to make this work. This is the same pattern. But I also add a diluted fume of P&S brake buster (between the lift and reset ) on them to make sure that all residue are gone.

For the PPF, good companies like Protex have a computer to cut to size the PPF, this create a perfect job without using a knife. The installer just have to peel it and instal. Installers that don't use a computer, must use a generic roll and cut it direct on the car. This may cause permanent damage if they aren't precaucious.

 

[Bikeman315]

Good stuff Francois. Scott also check to see what the manufacturer of the coating your detailer is using. I have a Gyeon coating and find the majority of their maintenance products to be excellent.

As far as PPF once again defer to your guy. My suggestion (for cost reasons) is to do the front clip. This includes the full hood (do not do just the front 1/3, trust me on this), bumper, headlights, fenders, and rear view mirrors. I also do the “A” pillars which, at least on mine, included the front edge of the roof.

 

[Ballistica]

FOr the "lift" and "reset" snow foam, they come from Carpro. really, really good product and those have been vreated to work especially with ceramic coatings. For the wheel, you must have those ceramic coated in order to make this work. This is the same pattern. But I also add a diluted fume of P&S brake buster (between the lift and reset ) on them to make sure that all residue are gone.

For the PPF, good companies like Protex have a computer to cut to size the PPF, this create a perfect job without using a knife. The installer just have to peel it and instal. Installers that don't use a computer, must use a generic roll and cut it direct on the car. This may cause permanent damage if they aren't precaucious.

Awesome, thank you. You’re workflow seems to be very efficient! I’ll look more into the carpro products. I’ve seen them mentioned a few times on the forums here.

And good tip on the PPF. I’ll ask the detailer about that next time I’m there.

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