MOT Fail and advice

[Dannyh1991]

Hi, so just failed an MOT for a rear brake caliper/handbrake mechanism issue and also a front rear control arm.

I think I may have solved, or at least improved the handbrake issue with a bit of WD40 worked into the handbrake spring at the rear of the caliper, if this doesn't meet the standard then I'm guessing it's a new caliper, priced at £355 from Ford.

Ford were quoting around £180 for a single offside front, rear control arm. I have found these on Steeda which is £200 for the pair. I imagine they should be decent as they're from Steeda, but has anyone else had this issue or used these previously? I have already ordered them as I only have 10 days to get it retested.

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[GR11M]

Check the brake fluid and rear pads.
The handbrake cables meet in the middle behind the driveshaft, you can tighten it up there.

 

[Dannyh1991]

Check the brake fluid and rear pads.
The handbrake cables meet in the middle behind the driveshaft, you can tighten it up there.

Cheers, I haven't even looked for that yet, I did think it needed tightening though due to how high the handbrake was going up. Bit of WD40 on the rear spring of the caliper has loosened it up a bit and there's far less travel in the handbrake as a result and it seems to be engaging a lot more when it's jacked up and trying to spin the wheel by hand. I'll have to keep an eye on it but hopefully what iv done so far is sufficient for the pass standard.

 

[Gloucesternige]

Those Steeda arms look to be a very sensible replacement. I would inform your insurance company though as they are a modification.

As for the rear calipers.. I have stripped and rebuilt mine to paint them and can assure you there is a lack of lubrication behind the rubber boot where there should be plenty of rubber grease. There is an o-ring on the shaft which seals the brake fluid within the caliper behind the piston. The correct adjustment is obtained by making sure there is a tiny gap between between the stop at the released stage. I put a couple of .25 mm feeler gauges between the levers and the stops, then with the handbrake in its "off" position tighten the adjustment next to the exhaust until the feeler gauges fall out. This will ensure you have the designed mechanical leverage at the caliper end. They work via a disc with ramps rotating against a "cam", so will actually release pressure if pulled too far...

If you are confident with tools there should be no reason why you cant strip them. Just make sure you take plenty of pictures of the spring orientation and the lever position on each side.

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