More than a little aggravated

[TN GT]

I bought my 2019 on September 2, 30 days after it rolled off the assembly line, and have really had no issues other than a couple of CELs, misfires, that went away on their own after some very spirited driving. I had been wanting to do the E85 tune but now I have a sort of rattle at 2-3k rpm and maybe a tick that could be normal or not. Maybe I have just read too many posts and watched too many YouTube videos.

I am willing to risk the warranty if I am dealing with an engine that is fundamentally sound but I am not sure that is the case given what I am hearing and I have heard from some very knowledgeable people that there may be a serious issue with some of these engines.

I ordered the nGauge and Lund tune today from Beefcake but I am really on the fence on whether to install or wait a few thousand more miles.

It would be great if I could just go to Ford and say something along the lines of "If this engine breaks because of a known issue I expect you to fix it and not blame it on my tune." It is aggravating for a $50k+ car and really just pisses me off if I am honest about it.

Any advice or thoughts?

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[Bluemustang]

I would take it back to the dealer if it were me. I've had my GT for over 3 years and haven't had a CEL or any misfires at all. A brand new car shouldn't misfire imo. And 50k is a lot to spend so I dont blame you for being upset.

Try not to get too aggravated and try to be pragmatic about it. I agree with you though, I wouldn't tune it if you've already experienced issues so early on.

But again dont lose your head and dont read too many threads about issues and get yourself all riled up. Just be smart about it and try to figure out the problem. That's what I'd do.

 

[VooDooDaddy]

...It is aggravating for a $50k+ car and really just pisses me off if I am honest about it.

Any advice or thoughts?

Well, you asked for it....

First off, give it a few thousand more miles. Although my number to follow is completely arbitrary; I'd wait until you had 10,000 miles on the car. If something truly catastrophic is wrong with your car, it should manifest itself by then. If no huge problems present themselves (with the engine) by then, well..., then it's time call it good and do whatever mods you intend.

That's the total sum of my advice based on very limited information.

Now on to my thoughts. You should have bought a nice, clean, low-mileage 2015-2017 car for about HALF, yes half of what you paid for your 2019 car. The fact that people are and have been paying $50k+ for 2018 and 2019 cars is simply beyond me. Especially with all the reports of engine problems with the 2018/2019 cars. And you knew about those problems and still bought a 2019 GT.

Seriously, with all the 2015-2017 cars for sale easily in the mid to high $20k's, all over the country just makes me shake my head. But hey..., it's your money!

 

[ugstang17]

I would concur on the 10K number. I waited and drove my 13 GT (bought it brand new on 6/2012) pretty spirited until I reached about 8K. Then after I was confident, I voided the warranty and went FI on it and left that in its original form for another 4K. Then I pullied down and went with a tune and unleashed the hell hounds.

keep in mind that when buying the Lund Tune you only have 90 days to perform the datalogs and work with them to get the tune optimized. I just went over their website the other day considering them for a tune possibility for next spring. Their tunes are not canned tunes. They are better than a canned tune, they are a base tune and need to be datalogged as Lund will request to dial in the tune AND make sure there aren't any issues. If there are and you have waited outside of that 90 day time frame they will require a fee to extend that another 90 days according to their policy. I am not trying to scare you or bash Lund. And I understand why they have their policy like this. Soooooooooo...you may wish to speak with Terry at TBCR and have him hold off on the tune package for now for this reason if you decide to wait a while. Terry will understand. He is a good fellow. Just return to him for the tune when you are ready.

 

[VooDooDaddy]

I would concur on the 10K number. I waited and drove my 13 GT (bought it brand new on 6/2012) pretty spirited until I reached about 8K. Then after I was confident, I voided the warranty and went FI on it and left that in its original form for another 4K. Then I pullied down and went with a tune and unleashed the hell hounds.

keep in mind that when buying the Lund Tune you only have 90 days to perform the datalogs and work with them to get the tune optimized. I just went over their website the other day considering them for a tune possibility for next spring. Their tunes are not canned tunes. They are better than a canned tune, they are a base tune and need to be datalogged as Lund will request to dial in the tune AND make sure there aren't any issues. If there are and you have waited outside of that 90 day time frame they will require a fee to extend that another 90 days according to their policy. I am not trying to scare you or bash Lund. And I understand why they have their policy like this. Soooooooooo...you may wish to speak with Terry at TBCR and have him hold off on the tune package for now for this reason if you decide to wait a while. Terry will understand. He is a good fellow. Just return to him for the tune when you are ready.

^^^ Very good advice!

 

[Notagain]

Well, you asked for it....

First off, give it a few thousand more miles. Although my number to follow is completely arbitrary; I'd wait until you had 10,000 miles on the car. If something truly catastrophic is wrong with your car, it should manifest itself by then. If no huge problems present themselves (with the engine) by then, well..., then it's time call it good and do whatever mods you intend.

That's the total sum of my advice based on very limited information.

Now on to my thoughts. You should have bought a nice, clean, low-mileage 2015-2017 car for about HALF, yes half of what you paid for your 2019 car. The fact that people are and have been paying $50k+ for 2018 and 2019 cars is simply beyond me. Especially with all the reports of engine problems with the 2018/2019 cars. And you knew about those problems and still bought a 2019 GT.

Seriously, with all the 2015-2017 cars for sale easily in the mid to high $20k's, all over the country just makes me shake my head. But hey..., it's your money!

Says the clown that was trying to bust my balls over my totaled 2016 and crying about insurance rates.....

Now in this thread you are trying to bust this guys balls for buying a NEW car with a warranty?!

Hey psst Jackhole did it occur to you people buy NEW cars for the piece of mind knowing some clown didnt beat on it previously?

As for the OP "knowing about the 2018+ issues" Umm people know about all the MT82 issues too yet people still buy them. Where do you draw the line here?

Ohh I know buy a USED car is what everyone should do..... Well according to you anyways LOL.

Hmm rightfully so the OPs pissed the new car shouldnt have issues but dont chide the dude for buying NEW!

Do you pay his bank note or manage his income?

I bet not.

If you want to talk about the OPs 50k NEW car with a warranty fine but how does what he could have or "should" have spent his money on have any relevance here?

Move alone with the whining woulda coulda shoulda but didnt so it doesnt matter here cupcake.

Hey everyone lets all go trade in our 2018+ Mustangs and buy gen2 2015-2017 S550s because @VooDooDaddy says its better to pay half for used cars.....

No wonder Ford is having issues people are all buying them older gen2 cars! LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL....

 

[Kep4]

Picked up my Mustang July 25th, have 2K on it so far. No CEL's, misfires, no ticking... at least no ticking that sounds like anything other than the injection system. I've driven Ford Diesel powered trucks since 2005 so maybe I'm just used to ticking/rattling noises.
Anyway, have your service department check it out. Work the problem, diagnose it with logic and patience.
Drive it hard, spirited as stated above, so if the engine does have any issues you'll hopefully bring them out.
Remember, people with vehicle problems, whether real or imagined/paranoid, come to vehicle websites to share their vehicle issues far more than people without any vehicle issues. Sometimes people will have a problem with a vehicle and it then becomes their mission to convince everyone on this planet that every vehicle similar to theirs is the biggest piece of shit ever devised. Conversely, others believe that everything they have is the full on badass best of the best of the best! Such is life.

 

[ModularKid21]

Your frustration is justified in my opinion. Unfortunately, not all cars are created equal and there are bound to be cars with issues now and again even if they are new. But that’s the great part about owning a new car, warranty!! I would agree with letting it ride for 10k miles or so and then if the issues persists, fairly regularly might I add, I’d take it in. Coming from a technician as well as the owner of a vehicle that’s under warranty, it can be frustrating having a vehicle in the shop multiple times for a recurring issue as well as being on the diagnostic side and trying to figure out why a vehicle is misfiring when it only does it a couple times every 10k miles. Those issues are worth noting though and taking it in to have them document it will only help in the long run

 

[CNCLester]

I have an 18 pp1 manual. Have had the 2 to 3 k rattle since day one. It diminishes with a bit of throttle imput. I have no oil consumption, and didn't do the first oil change till 5500 miles. Got on the car after 1200 miles. Lund tune and longtubes at 4500 miles. I drag it sometimes and autocross it as often as I can. I now have 10800 miles on it. Runs just as strong as ever.
Enjoy the car, drive that thing till you smile and don't look back.

 

[Notagain]

Of all the "noisey OMGWTFBBQTCKWHOTHEHELLCOMESUPWITHTHISSHIT" engines on here and youtube people complain about most turn into a "Russian witch hunt" LOL and usually result in the dealer hail marry throwing parts at the car or replacing the engine.

Ive yet to see very many self destruct even if people complain they are noisey.

Im not saying its not real but its about as blown out of proportion as the OMG you need OPGs when adding FI!!

That all mess started because some jackhole on youtube had a hellion twin turbo kit on a black manual 2015 and bounced it off the rev limiter like a basket ball wayyyyyy back when the S550 1st came out.

 

[VooDooDaddy]

Says the clown that was trying to bust my balls over my totaled 2016 and crying about insurance rates.....

Yep, that's about right. Play stoopid games, win stoopid prizes.

Now in this thread you are trying to bust this guys balls for buying a NEW car with a warranty?!

Nope, I wasn't "...trying to bust this guys (sic) balls..." in any way. He specifically asked for "advice" and "thoughts" so that is exactly what he got. He doesn't have to like my thoughts or take my advice. Pretty simple really.

Hey psst Jackhole did it occur to you people buy NEW cars for the piece of mind knowing some clown didnt beat on it previously?

Yep, it sure did, but since the OP didn't specifically mention it, I didn't address it in my comments. And like I said at the end..., it's his money, which means he can do with it whatever he wants.

As for the OP "knowing about the 2018+ issues" Umm people know about all the MT82 issues too yet people still buy them. Where do you draw the line here?

Well, again, since there was absolutely NO mention of an MT82 transmission anywhere in the discussion above, I'd think that is exactly where I draw the line. You see, I don't make inferences based on non-existent topics of discussion. You however, continue to make a habit of it. Why, I have no idea.

Ohh I know buy a USED car is what everyone should do..... Well according to you anyways LOL.

Again, more inferences made and conflating a topic of discussion. I never said that "everyone should" buy a used Mustang GT. I specifically stated how I don't understand why some people choose to spend so much money on a car that is only slightly better than a used car costing half as much? Again, this is all pretty simple stuff to most of us on this forum.

If you want to talk about the OPs 50k NEW car with a warranty fine but how does what he could have or "should" have spent his money on have any relevance here?

Dude, seriously do you have an I.Q. above 85? It has relevance because HE ASKED for our advice and thoughts

What is really pathetic is the fact that the OP had no issues with anything contained in my original response. As a matter of fact, the OP "liked" my original comment to his request for advice and thoughts.

The only person here trying to win the gold medal in the never-ending Butt-Hurt Olympics is YOU!!

 

[Notagain]

LOL I smell ruffled Jimmies. Carry on.

Only slightly better according to you..... Never mind the fact the Gen2 and gen3 engines are different aswell as the automatics with each gen too.

Lesson learned here folks is dont be a dildo and try decide what others should do with their income ROFL.....

 

[VooDooDaddy]

...Lesson learned here folks is dont (be a dildo) and try decide what others should do with their income ROFL.....

Except when someone specifically asks for "advice" and "thoughts", but if the OP thought I was being a "dildo", which I don't think he did since he "liked" my response, well there's not much I can do about that.

Someone (Notagain) needs a soothing and liberal application of butt-hurt cream, and soon....!

 

[wildcatgoal]

I wait until 10K before doing any engine modifications, especially a tune. Always.

 

[Cavpilot2k]

A brand new car shouldn't misfire imo.

This.
No new car should have misfires and CELs, no matter how hard you drive it.
Period.

I agree with others to give it some time, but anybody who thinks misfires and CELs in a new car are acceptable and just part of owning a performance car need to have their head examined, even if it is after hard driving.

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