More downpipe troubles

[Timmonsxp1]

Got a torque wrench? Those are handy, but not the cheapest tool you can buy

Yeah that's what I torqued them too yesterday. On the installation videos it doesn't say anything about it. They say just tighten it and make sure it's seated properly. I think I need to replace the donut gasket though it was looking pretty bad when I put it back in.

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[FreePenguin]

Yeah that's what I torqued them too yesterday. On the installation videos it doesn't say anything about it. They say just tighten it and make sure it's seated properly. I think I need to replace the donut gasket though it was looking pretty bad when I put it back in.

I replaced mine when I put an oem pipe back on just because

 

[Timmonsxp1]

Ye

I replaced mine when I put an oem pipe back on just because

YeaH I would have yesterday but when I went to ford they said it was special order only. So I'll have to order it. I took it to ford to get fixed originally because I was tired of dealing with the turbo studs being out and it not sitting right. Then they call me and said they can't do it because the downpipe is too big. Lmao. I was like whatever dude I'll come and get it and fix it myself.

 

[Rapid Red]

The doughnut seal is made for a mating surface that will not line up perfectly. As long as it is sealed is all that matters.

For instance consider exhaust ports and headers.
It uses a flat gasket, those surfaces must align to form a seal.
Doughnut seats & seals, in a cup, cup provides some error correction, while maintaining a sealed connection.

 

[Timmonsxp1]

The doughnut seal is made for a mating surface that will not line up perfectly. As long as it is sealed is all that matters.

For instance consider exhaust ports and headers.
It uses a flat gasket, those surfaces must align to form a seal.
Doughnut seats & seals, in a cup, cup provides some error correction, while maintaining a sealed connection.

Yeah it took me forever to figure out if the DP I was using was supposed to fit flush or not. I kept seeing pics of other DP that were so I wae confused and somewhat aggravated that I couldn't get mine flush lmao

 

[FreePenguin]

Donut is better than flush. I had mine flush w cvfab. And it was leaking ever so slightly. I just think the donut is better than a little gasket

 

[Timmonsxp1]

Donut is better than flush. I had mine flush w cvfab. And it was leaking ever so slightly. I just think the donut is better than a little gasket

Yeah? I think I'm gonna order a new one just to be safe. Like I said the original donut looked pretty rough. I'm curious to see what shape my plugs are in. I've been through several different mods and now it's running a bit rich. Any idea what to gap new oem plugs for modded ecoboost?

 

[FreePenguin]

Yeah? I think I'm gonna order a new one just to be safe. Like I said the original donut looked pretty rough. I'm curious to see what shape my plugs are in. I've been through several different mods and now it's running a bit rich. Any idea what to gap new oem plugs for modded ecoboost?

0.028 is all I ever see recommended, which is also oem spec.
If you’re running Cobb stage 3, it’s stock plugs with 0.028 or do ngk ruthenium 90495 at 0.028. It comes 0.032 gotta gap down .004

I’m actually gapping a set today for someone. (Tossed motorcycle plug on gapper for pic) don’t have a spare car plug out

Bought this nifty guy off amazon. 50 bucks, works w small medium large plugs. Do a small tightening, leave for a moment, release check gap w guage. It’s good for the ruthenium plugs, as you need it straight down. Vs risking off center by prying

 

[Timmonsxp1]

0.028 is all I ever see recommended, which is also oem spec.
If you’re running Cobb stage 3, it’s stock plugs with 0.028 or do ngk ruthenium 90495 at 0.028. It comes 0.032 gotta gap down .004

I’m actually gapping a set today for someone. (Tossed motorcycle plug on gapper for pic) don’t have a spare car plug out

Bought this nifty guy off amazon. 50 bucks, works w small medium large plugs. Do a small tightening, leave for a moment, release check gap w guage. It’s good for the ruthenium plugs, as you need it straight down. Vs risking off center by prying

I thought that's what I read. .28
I'll start with plugs and work my way down sensors I guess. She's running sluggish like afr isnt mixing properly.
Plus I haven't heard anyone say they are running mid 10s under wot.

 

[FreePenguin]

I thought that's what I read. .28
I'll start with plugs and work my way down sensors I guess. She's running sluggish like afr isnt mixing properly.
Plus I haven't heard anyone say they are running mid 10s under wot.

when I changed downpipe. I reset the KAM
It’s learned fuel trims so it learned them fresh

Itl be slow for a little bit but Itl learn
Could toss new plugs in it and reset kam. Clean filter while at it for optimum new car learn

 

[FreePenguin]

You know it’s honestly possible that Cobb tells it 10afr to prevent detonation. Next time I go play I will romp and see what I get on my afr’s

Once you floor it, it’s ignoring o2 sensors I think. It goes into open loop and just goes off predetermined data tables made by cobb for wot

it just dumps the fuel Cobb tune says, and if that happens to be 10afr, because you flow a little better then that is what it is. Pure speculation on my part

 

[Timmonsxp1]

when I changed downpipe. I reset the KAM
It’s learned fuel trims so it learned them fresh

Itl be slow for a little bit but Itl learn
Could toss new plugs in it and reset kam. Clean filter while at it for optimum new car learn

I'm not familiar with KAM. I have been on stage 3 for 2 weeks now. It's starting to run a bit better. It runs fine normal driving. It's just when under wot. What else could cause too rich? Maf? Fouled 02? Plugs?

 

[Timmonsxp1]

You know it’s honestly possible that Cobb tells it 10afr to prevent detonation. Next time I go play I will romp and see what I get on my afr’s

Once you floor it, it’s ignoring o2 sensors I think. It goes into open loop and just goes off predetermined data tables made by cobb for wot

it just dumps the fuel Cobb tune says, and if that happens to be 10afr, because you flow a little better then that is what it is. Pure speculation on my part

Yeah lmk. Before the DP install I believe I was mid 11s on stage 1.

 

[FreePenguin]

You don’t have a maf, o2 isn’t fouled I’m sure of it

I’d reset kam first and new plugs if you’re curious and wanting to Blame something

 

[FreePenguin]

Yeah lmk. Before the DP install I believe I was mid 11s on stage 1.

so? Stage 1 is less power.Stage 3 is absolute hardest Cobb felt was safe, so why not add a little more richness for increased wot safety?

by that logic. It seems plausible and reasonable

you can email Cobb and ask what afr target is for stage3 and if high 10afr or whatever is safe or not

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