MGW Shifter for Mach1

[Zelek]

So if the Mach 1 shifter is anything like the MT-82 I pulled out of my 17, it's pretty cheap on the internals. The whole thing looked flimsy when it came out. The MGW I put in was a really beefy shifter. The linkage and everything is much higher quality and durable.

Depending on if the install changed, I may do this one again at some point. It wasn't that bad on jack stands last time I did it.

Sponsored

 

[Mikepol2]

The MT82 used in the Mustang GT actually has a shifter with better performance potential than that of the Tremec TR3160 in the GT350/Mach1. The GT shifter has a linear action with a pivot atop a longitudinally mounted rod. Sadly, overly soft bushings used for NVH and a somewhat clunky linkage connected to the transmission output shaft murks things up.

The issue with the stock GT350/Mach1 shifter is that it utilizes a pendulum design (non-linear), where you are trying to "swing" the linkage into place to impart a shift. The plastic sphere and race deflect, reducing feel and accuracy, as well as wearing over time such that the linkage gets loose. The composite collar used for reverse/lockout is a fail and I've written about it as such since inception and had some healthy discussions here about it. The recall on this shifter design was well deserved. The spring for the collar rattles and Ford addressed that by inserting a tiny piece of foam between the spring and the shifter upright. There are numerous threads about these issues in the GT350 forum. The Mach1 shifter is the exact same unit that was being used when GT350 production stopped.

The benefits from the MGW are numerous. First off, MGW chose to use a linear connection to the transmission, akin to the way a bolt-action rifle works in terms of direction/rotation. The massive bronze bushing ensures deflection will not be an issue with the main shaft as it exits the shifter box. Shifts are much more direct.

The materials used, from 6061-T6 aluminum, 303 stainless, the aforementioned bushing, along with isolation where necessary to minimize or eliminate NVH, all contribute to a very rigid platform which is what translates into crisp/clean shifts through the transmission. Tolerances and heat treatment at critical junctures mean you won't see wear in a typical lifetime - something the stock unit falls flat on its face with. This shifter begs to be roughed up but will reward you every time. George is a master of his craft and his shifter designs exemplify that.

Excellent info. Thanks!

 

[Fishtales]

Would anyone share the cost of the shifter? Just curious, would not really be a driving factor.
My WAG is $450.

 

[VictorH]

Shifter $469
Mach 1 adapter $20
Shipping $19

 

[Fishtales]

Shifter $469
Mach 1 adapter $20
Shipping $19

Thanks!

 

[Zelek]

Curious to see how the first install goes for anyone that bought it. That will probably be the determining factor for me. If it is the same as the MT-82 on the 15-17's, I'll do it. I still have a stainless steel clutch line with quick bleed to put on that I kept from my turbo build I never did. Might throw that on there too.

 

[JOKER M1]

Anyone install theirs yet, mine came in today. Now just waiting on the next part on the puzzle……….. the car.

 

[VictorH]

Yes, just a week ago. One thing to look out for is that Ford made a mid-year change in the shifter ball thread from 10 mm to 12 mm. I was sent a 10mm shifter shaft and of course didn't notice the problem until the very last step and everything is back together. Was sent a 12 mm shifter shaft and I can tell you installing the original is easy but removing it is a huge PIA. The threaded part of the shifter base is a cylinder which rotates, and both screws are threaded into this cylinder (don't have any idea why they did it this way). It's okay when tightening two opposing cap head screws but loosening is a bit pain as if one bolt has more friction (they are all have thread locker on them) than the other, you will only loosen the screw with less friction. Hard to explain but if you have to remove you'll get to experience it. Took me over 90 minutes to remove 4 screws for this reason. New one now on and and good to go.

 

[JOKER M1]

Yes, just a week ago. One thing to look out for is that Ford made a mid-year change in the shifter ball thread from 10 mm to 12 mm. I was sent a 10mm shifter shaft and of course didn't notice the problem until the very last step and everything is back together. Was sent a 12 mm shifter shaft and I can tell you installing the original is easy but removing it is a huge PIA. The threaded part of the shifter base is a cylinder which rotates, and both screws are threaded into this cylinder (don't have any idea why they did it this way). It's okay when tightening two opposing cap head screws but loosening is a bit pain as if one bolt has more friction (they are all have thread locker on them) than the other, you will only loosen the screw with less friction. Hard to explain but if you have to remove you'll get to experience it. Took me over 90 minutes to remove 4 screws for this reason. New one now on and and good to go.

Interesting on the shaft size, I did get their shifter ball but good to know. He mentions in the video that the screws can turn with the barrels and you may have to use 2 allen wrenches but of course doesn’t mention why it was designed that way…. So big question, how does it feel ?

 

[VictorH]

The shifter is excellent. Super, smooth, very direct, you don't change gears you "snick" them in. I would say the cold trans balkyness is perhaps a bit exacerbated but once warmed up the shifting is really nice.

 

[JOKER M1]

The shifter is excellent. Super, smooth, very direct, you don't change gears you "snick" them in. I would say the cold trans balkyness is perhaps a bit exacerbated but once warmed up the shifting is really nice.

Great, thanks for the feedback

 

[Atlas1]

Yes, just a week ago. One thing to look out for is that Ford made a mid-year change in the shifter ball thread from 10 mm to 12 mm. I was sent a 10mm shifter shaft and of course didn't notice the problem until the very last step and everything is back together. Was sent a 12 mm shifter shaft and I can tell you installing the original is easy but removing it is a huge PIA. The threaded part of the shifter base is a cylinder which rotates, and both screws are threaded into this cylinder (don't have any idea why they did it this way). It's okay when tightening two opposing cap head screws but loosening is a bit pain as if one bolt has more friction (they are all have thread locker on them) than the other, you will only loosen the screw with less friction. Hard to explain but if you have to remove you'll get to experience it. Took me over 90 minutes to remove 4 screws for this reason. New one now on and and good to go.

Interesting. First I can remember reading anything about a mid year change. I wonder when the approx date was when ford made that change

 

[murick]

Yes, just a week ago.

How long did it take and how difficult it was? And did you do it yourself, or had it done in a shop?

 

[VictorH]

How long did it take and how difficult it was? And did you do it yourself, or had it done in a shop?

It's not hard at all, just lots of steps. I think as a DYI project it's really good even for inexperienced folks. Having a lift is a nice thing but you could do it on jack stands. The hardest part, by far, for me was the installation of the rubber boot around the shifter base (the car part of the flange is easy). Just take your time, watch the video multiple times and you'll be good. I did it slowly over the course of a weekend between other stuff. You don't really need fancy tools either.

 

[VictorH]

Interesting. First I can remember reading anything about a mid year change. I wonder when the approx date was when ford made that change

My car is an October 2021 production. Evidently the earlier cars had a 10 mm thread for the ball.
My car is not my daily driver yet but the more i drive it the better I like the shifter. It's just super nice, and so precise.

Sponsored