Lund tune/build thread (2nd attempt)

[Burkey]

That was my exact responce to him and yet still to get the answer. They said that they have reflashed the PCM to new version, so will see if it makes any difference out on track on Saturday.:frusty::(

The bright side of the PCM reflash is that it shows Ford have identified issues before you even walked in the door. Continual improvement is a fantastic thing.
Having said that, if the issues you're having are actually in the tune as such, flashing the Lund tune across will void any of those gains, unless of course Lund are all over it themselves? :shrug:

The fact that the Ngauge is grabbing your factory tune on the first flash attempt will prove handy. Yeah, your warranty will be done and dusted, but you can at least fall back on that most recent Ford tune if all else fails.

I guess at this point you're just playing the waiting game...
Best of luck with it mate, sucks when things aren't quite right. addle:

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[phil545]

I can say the same with mine auto when i hit the bump the foot slightly moves and makes the car behave that way with stock tune.
My other problem is out on the track on my 3rd session (approx 30 laps) the transmission starts to behave in a way that it does not want to upshift in sport manual mode using padles. There are no fault codes in the system or warning lights on dash, the dealer does not know what is wrong with it and the technical guys have nothing to go off.

It feels like the car is surging, starving of fuel or going into limp home mode, the dealer has update the PCM with the latest software the other week and i guess will see what happens on Saturday out on the track again.
I have my Ngauge installed and Lund tune ready to go, might have to flush that in at the track and see if it makes any difference and possibly data log it and send it away for review and adjustment.
Might even maybe get the technical guy out and show him the logged data and see what they have to say about that.They may have to fix it the same way that they have done with the Police mustangs and the simular issue that i think i might be having with mine.

mate the problem you have is heat, the trans is getting too hot (well the car thinks it is) and the safety parameters are kicking in, This was the whole issue with the police testing the stang. You can look into a tranny cooler but it might be worth chatting with mr Herrod as I know he was working on tranny tunes to help this issue

 

[stasik-a4]

mate the problem you have is heat, the trans is getting too hot (well the car thinks it is) and the safety parameters are kicking in, This was the whole issue with the police testing the stang. You can look into a tranny cooler but it might be worth chatting with mr Herrod as I know he was working on tranny tunes to help this issue

It does sound like that is the issue, however the temps are showing 140 which isn't that hot with the type of fluid in trans.
The cooler is allready there from factory sitting infront of the radiator, the problem i see is that the steel cooler lines come out on passenger side and have to face the heat of cat then go across to the drivers side and face more heat of drivers side cat. Then it will go to the front and get cooled to some degree before returning and facing same heat cycle again before re-turning to transmission.

I have since then also added insulation heat shield to the cooler lines around the cats to help and reduce the heat, the next step is fitting bigger cooler aslong as what im doing is improving and eliminating the problem that im having im happy.

The fact that there is no record of this happening is a bit of a worry and the hardest part at finding the cause of the problem. No one has been able to tell me what are the parrameters for it, if its a 139 trans temp at least i can keep an eye on it and let it cool down prior to pushing more. Untill the idiot light comes up on dash telling you that there is something wrong with the car, to normal person the car should be performing and functioning 100% "if you know what i mean". ;)

 

[Burkey]

It does sound like that is the issue how ever the temps are showing 140 which isn't that hot with the type of fluid in trans. The cooler is allready there from factory sitting infront of the radiator, the problem i see is that the steel cooler lines come out on passenger side and have to face the heat of cat then go across to the drivers side and face more heat of drivers side cat. Then it will go to the front and get cooled to some degree before returning and facing same heat cycle before re turning to transmission.
I have since then also added insulation heat shield to the cooler lines around the cats to help and reduce the heat, the next step is fitting bigger cooler aslong as what im doing is improving and eliminating the problem that im having im happy.

The fact that there is no record of this happening is a bit of a worry and the hardest part at finding the cause of the problem.

Could you also use some heat wrap on the cats?

 

[stasik-a4]

Could you also use some heat wrap on the cats?

I don't think wrapping cats is a good idea, but with a search of Google the Corvette people are putting these around their cats and also same stuff as i used around their cooler lines.
https://www.designengineering.com//...fic-products/c7-corvette-catalytic-converter-

I used this for trans cooler lines.

 

[Burkey]

This morning datalogging with the revision is done.
Just need to review the logs.

NOTES:
Brains trust (BT) sat in the passenger seat to view the Ngauge in real time, this proved a few theories.
Picked a cooler morning to see if the timing would alter with inlet temp (about 10degrees cooler this time around).
Fuel is still Shell Optimax 98, tank is nearly empty, will try BP 98 once she's almost sucking air.
Drove to the track on the previous revision in order to do a base run on that setting.
Performed multiple runs, swapped to revision.

First run, BT suggests rolling the throttle on gently to see if it has any impact on the false knock situation (less engine twist = less clanging of headers on steering column).
No change. Likely that the headers are rubbing regardless of torque transfer.

Second run, ran car well past an indicated 7,200 on dash, unsure of what the Ngauge read as yet. Heard a massive BOOM noise (as if a part had fallen off the car), thought I'd killed it, got off the throttle immediately. :eyebulge:
Logs will show what happened. Highly unusual....

Car drives fine, nothing weird showing up. :shrug:

DBW throttle settings:
I'm unsure. You get used to driving a certain way, so after six months of factory settings, less than a week on the first revision and less than an hour on the new settings, my muscle memory has lost the plot completely.
My best guess is tat it WILL be better once I learn the strategy. At the minute I'm not completely autonomous in my throttle application.
The fact that the car may be pulling timing as I release the clutch may not be helping either...
More homework required once the engine mounts arrive and resolve the clearances problems.
:cheers:

 

[MustangDownUnder]

For anyone interested in the Hurricane Headers/Lund tune/Cai

short clip here!

(warm start, and filmed straight after install.)

[ame]

 

[Burkey]

Seems that we may have solved the riddle of the BOOM!
The brains trust had a quick look over the logs and explains it as such:

The rev limiter has several resources available, one of which is to shut the throttle blade enough to reduce load. (He felt this happen)
It's better than a hard cut....
What looks plausible with the log is that upon blade closure, fuelling went lean via decel fuel cut off, then went rich (injected fuel)...

Now, after speaking with other owners on stock tune with aftermarket exhaust, it seems that they've had this happen also.
Guys with stock exhaust possibly get it also, but don't hear it anywhere near as much.
So it's not a Lund thing by any measure.
What I think has happened is that it's doing the same thing it's always done but now it's doing it at higher rpm and it has 100cel cats, 3" pipe and straight through mufflers to make the bang quite significant.

It's also worth mentioning that we saw 7100rpmnon the Ngauge when this all happened, the dashboard was indicting upward of 7500. This is half the reason I was feeling out.
When you think you're revving it to the moon and she goes BANG, every nightmare springs to life.
It all makes sense to me. I may have even learned something today.

 

[Josh_TypeX]

Just completed my first log and sent it off to Lund. Car pulled well all the way to the 7500rpm rev limiter. I had quite a loud pop with the limiter, not a bang lime burkey describes however I have stock headers and cats so I would imagine his would be considerably amplified.

I've included some data from my log below.

Also had a bit of a race (on a private road, big driveways in the bush) with a stock mustang (catback only). My tuned car was convincingly faster.

 

[Gibbo205]

Hi there

Some things guys!

BOOM: My car has never boomed or banged ever on Lund tune, however I am on stock headers and stock cats with a Corsa Sport catback, I've never had a bang and I've being upto 8000rpm.

nGauge & Tacho: They should not be out! RPM on tacho should match rpm on nGauge, when datalogging the ngauge shows RPM, rev to 2500rpm on tacho and hold steady, ngauge should also read 2500rpm.

Limiter: DO NOT HIT THE LIMITER! Seriously one of the major causes of OPG failure is hitting the limiter hard repeatably, the harmonics will eventially crack/shatter the OPG causing fatal engine failure. Stay out of the limiter. I change gear around 7500rpm, my soft limiter is set at 7700rpm (massive timing reduction) and hard limiter is 7900rpm, some set soft at 7900 and hard as high as 8300rpm, not because they rev this high it just guarantees not bumping the limiter as hitting the limiter hard causes more harm than revving beyond 8000rpm.

Timing: Is Australian Vpower only RON 98? Do you not have 99/100 RON fuel?

 

[Josh_TypeX]

Noted regarding the limiter. Thanks for the advice! My skyline is happy on the limiter all day long... So I developed somewhat of a habit from tracking that.

The best fuel readily available in Australia is 98 Ron. United has (or had) a 100 Ron which was a mix of 98 and 5% ethanol. But that is not very common. E85 is also available at some locations. However they have changed their marketing strategy for it from being a cheaper alternative (25 cents a litre cheaper than 91) to being a premium alternative and pricing it the same as 98. With the increased fuel use that comes with e85 it doesn't make it a very economical choice!

 

[Burkey]

[MENTION=13598]Gibbo205[/MENTION]
Thanks for the heads up mate. I shall check the Tacho vs Ngauge for accuracy at lower rpm and avoid breaking OPGs
Cheers

 

[phil545]

My limiter is set at 7500, sometimes i've hit it and she lets out a sweet sound like a gunshot lol. I'm curious how well the oil pump can keep up with 8-8.3k rev limits though.

 

[SteamPlane]

Hi there
Timing: Is Australian Vpower only RON 98? Do you not have 99/100 RON fuel?

Correct.

 

[Burkey]

My limiter is set at 7500, sometimes i've hit it and she lets out a sweet sound like a gunshot lol. I'm curious how well the oil pump can keep up with 8-8.3k rev limits though.

Did you say you were going to test this Phil?

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