Lug Nuts and Torque Values

[Seesnax]

OK, I did some searching and probably answered my first question regarding the torque value on my stock 18" wheels (2106 EB, non-PP): looks like even the owner's manual calls for 150 lb.ft. Every car I have ever owned (I am over 50 yrs. old) has had lug nut torque values of between 80 and 100 lb.ft. No need to debate this number, but it looks like I may need to buy a new torque wrench: my current offering only goes up to 120 lb.ft….

Second question: what is the size of the lug nuts on the above mentioned 18" wheels? The best fit from my socket set(s) looks like a 21mm, but even that is extremely tight, and I keep getting the socket stuck on the nut. I have tried both US and metric (do they make a 53/64" socket?). I am afraid someone put the wrong size socket on the nuts before I got the car and rounded them a bit, which is why I can't find a "perfect fit" socket. What is the "official" socket size?

Thanks!

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[HoosierDaddy]

The factory lug nuts are crap. A thin outer shell that gets crushed out of shape.

Replace them. Preferably with solid aftermarket lug nuts or you'll likely be doing it again.

 

[Monopoly]

I'm still using factory lugs and torque to 150lb ft. No issues at all with 21mm socket.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I'm still using factory lugs and torque to 150lb ft. No issues at all with 21mm socket.

Yep, the factory lug nuts work fine until they don't. The outer shells are easily distorted by ham-fisted impact driver operators or someone using the "almost" right size socket.

Once they are damaged (like the OP's) smart to replace with solid lug nuts.

 

[BmacIL]

Get some of the solid Gorilla stock-style nuts from CJ Pony Parts and thank yourself. They don't have the crap stamped shell like the stock ones that get distorted and damaged pretty easily.

 

[fiveoboy01]

Factory lugnuts hold up just fine if you R&I by hand. Although I agree that they are crap.

 

[TicTocTach]

As another "over 50" guy, I definitely miss the 80 lb-ft torque from my old Mopars - and my previous daily Honda Fit... My torque wenches both go to 150, but that's it. I need to get wenches with longer levers...

As data points, here's a photo of the OEM lug nut on the right, with some others I'm dealing with. You can clearly see the stainless cap on the end of the OEM lug nut. That's the part that starts the problems. I just bought the open-end lug nuts second from right to use with my original EBPP wheels. The second from left is a Gorilla unit that I got to replace the spline drive lug nuts that came with the SVE GT-7 wheels. The Gorillas are the biggest base I can get that fits the cone seat in the wheels. I could go larger, but there wouldn't be contact in the seat, so I thought that would be kind of pointless. FYI, the dimensions shown below are measured at the shoulder of the cone, not the hex.

Lug nuts by clair_davis, on Flickr

 

[Monopoly]

Yep, the factory lug nuts work fine until they don't. The outer shells are easily distorted by ham-fisted impact driver operators or someone using the "almost" right size socket.

Once they are damaged (like the OP's) smart to replace with solid lug nuts.

Yep. Before I first changed my tires/rims learned remove/install lugs the old fashion way. No impact gun and they seem ok... for now.

 

[Seesnax]

Thanks everyone - excellent replies!

I bought the car used, so there is no telling who did what to the lug nuts before I bought it. A couple of nights ago was the first time I had ever removed a wheel on it (91K miles on the clock; I have a slow leak due to a nail, but it's on the inner tread-block, so I can't find anyone to "legally" plug it - looks like new tires are in order...).

Great to know that the factory lug nuts are crap - I was not aware of this. Looks like I will be buying some new ones soon. Someone recommended the Gorilla nuts, which I will look into. Any other suggestions? I noticed there are some options on Rockauto and AutoZone, I just wasn't sure about the quality of these.

 

[Bluemustang]

I also bought the Gorilla lug nuts based on @BmacIL's suggestion and it was well worth it. Much stronger than the OEM ones and they look better too.

 

[tom_sprecher]

I also recommend the use of Gorilla nuts, and as kind of a fastener nerd from way back, can attest to the quality. The wheel studs on your Mustang are bigger in diameter (14x1.5mm or about 9/16") than all your old cars (probably 1/2"), hence the higher torque required to give them the proper stretch.

My F250 has 14x2.0mm studs and the nuts are torqued to 165#, because they are obviously even bigger.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yup just to second all of this, yeah 150 is correct, and yes the stock lug nuts are crap /but/ they work fine for a good while. I’ve used:

Stock Lugs
Gorilla small diameter
Gorilla stock diameter
Gorilla small diameter open ended
And Ford Performance open ended lug nuts.

.. but I ran the stock lugs until the jackets started to distort. All the Gorilla lugs I've used have held up really well. FWIW, I change wheels a handful of times a month. The Ford Performance lugs are good too if you need an open lug.

 

[Seesnax]

OK, Gorilla it is!

Final question: what are the advantages/disadvantages of the Gorilla small diameter vs. stock diameter (other than price)? Are there valid reasons for spending the extra money on the stock diameter?

I would like to stay with closed lugs vs. open-ended.

If it helps, 95% of my seat time is spirited highway driving, with a small bit of in-town driving and maybe a half-dozen autocross races per year.

 

[BmacIL]

OK, Gorilla it is!

Final question: what are the advantages/disadvantages of the Gorilla small diameter vs. stock diameter (other than price)? Are there valid reasons for spending the extra money on the stock diameter?

I would like to stay with closed lugs vs. open-ended.

If it helps, 95% of my seat time is spirited highway driving, with a small bit of in-town driving and maybe a half-dozen autocross races per year.

Small diameter are required for many aftermarket wheels. If you are using stock wheels or wheels that accept stock size lugs, do that.

 

[TicTocTach]

Small diameter are required for many aftermarket wheels. If you are using stock wheels or wheels that accept stock size lugs, do that.

This - I would say run the widest base lug nut you can, as long as it fits the seat in the wheel. Spreads the load over a larger area, so it's potentially safer in an impact or heavy cornering loads. Plus, at 150 lb-ft of torque, the wider seats probably deform the wheels less. That was my real discomfort over the small spline-drive lug nuts that came with the GT-7 wheels, and even 0.020" wider was worth it. Plus I didn't want to keep up with the spline drive socket forever.

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