Lowering Mustang GT PP1

[zachary1988]

I am planning to lower my Mustang GT PP1 with Steeda progressive lowering springs. Do I need caster/camber, bumpsteer and rear camber? What else would I need? I also have 4500 miles. Thanks in advance. Ed.

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[Andrew@Lethal]

Hey, give us a call here at www.lethalperformance.com. We can discuss everything you need for your car.

 

[Dave2013M3]

The camber plates are going to be dictated on how much negative camber you desire. If you want to go beyond -1.5 degrees you will probably need them or the camber bolts. I have a Ford Racing Track kit and I am able to get -1.5 front and -1.9 rear as the recommendation by Ford Performance with the OEM plates still in place.

However, if you want to do the plates the time to do it is during the install of the springs. You didn't mention anything about the strut/shock combo. To be honest the Steeda springs with their over 1" drop are going to be a mess with the OEM strut/shocks, even the PP1 units.

Also, you should have posted this up in the chassis forums. You would get more answers, I wouldn't be surprised if mods move it.

 

[zachary1988]

Thanks for your informative response. I'm just lowering it for looks and not tracking the car. What about bump steer? Thanks, Ed.

 

[Dave2013M3]

Thanks for your informative response. I'm just lowering it for looks and not tracking the car. What about bump steer? Thanks, Ed.

The issue is the stock PP1 strut/shocks barely control the PP1 spring rate. With the Steedas you will be back after the install asking why is my car so bouncy now after the install? We will answer its because you installed those springs on the OEM strut/shocks. Don't lower the car that much on the OEM units. If you are going to keep the OEM strut/shocks I wouldn't go beyond the Steeda minimal drop springs. You will be quite unhappy, do it right the first time. As far as bumbsteer the Steeda units lower the car more than an inch you will probably need the bumpsteer kit. The Ford Racing Track kit only lowered my car .875" front and .75" rear. Not quite the 1" advertised, and I am having no issue that I can discern of bumpsteer. It could be there but it could be so slight I may not be noticing it.

I went through the same dilemma when I wanted to just lower my car. You open a Pandora's box when you do such a thing.

 

[luc]

Thanks for your informative response. I'm just lowering it for looks and not tracking the car. What about bump steer? Thanks, Ed.

Ford racing has lowering springs that are designed to work with the PP1 suspension. Lower about 1”
Do it right
And no, nothing else needed

 

[coz0502]

I have a 16 PP GT and lowered mine 1 in all around with a different spring. I should have bought camber plates and rear adjustable brackets when I installed the springs. Multiple providers said a 1 in drop shouldn't need plates, however when I replaced my front 2 tires a few months later there was excessive wear on the inside of both tires with 1 tire showing cords. I bought plates immediately and of course had to pull the front struts out again to replace. I wish I would have done them together. Looks like you have a 19 and I'm not familiar with suspension changes through the years, but wanted to let you know my experience.

 

[Dave2013M3]

I have a 16 PP GT and lowered mine 1 in all around with a different spring. I should have bought camber plates and rear adjustable brackets when I installed the springs. Multiple providers said a 1 in drop shouldn't need plates, however when I replaced my front 2 tires a few months later there was excessive wear on the inside of both tires with 1 tire showing cords. I bought plates immediately and of course had to pull the front struts out again to replace. I wish I would have done them together. Looks like you have a 19 and I'm not familiar with suspension changes through the years, but wanted to let you know my experience.

You didn't mention what alignment settings you had. My car has no plates and tires are wearing perfectly with the recommended alignment settings with the OEM plates.

 

[luc]

I have a 16 PP GT and lowered mine 1 in all around with a different spring. I should have bought camber plates and rear adjustable brackets when I installed the springs. Multiple providers said a 1 in drop shouldn't need plates, however when I replaced my front 2 tires a few months later there was excessive wear on the inside of both tires with 1 tire showing cords. I bought plates immediately and of course had to pull the front struts out again to replace. I wish I would have done them together. Looks like you have a 19 and I'm not familiar with suspension changes through the years, but wanted to let you know my experience.

Lowering will change camber and therefore toe. It’s toe that is responsible for tire wear, not camber. May be your toe needed to be adjusted correctly

 

[coz0502]

You didn't mention what alignment settings you had. My car has no plates and tires are wearing perfectly with the recommended alignment settings with the OEM plates.

Yeah, re-reading I left out a important point, when I went to replace my front 2 tires, I also had the shop align the car. They got it close but it was still out of spec and recommended plates to remedy. I did do one smart thing and bought the lifetime warranty so alignments are free moving forward. After putting plates (front) / brackets (rear) they were able to get everything back in spec..

 

[coz0502]

Lowering will change camber and therefore toe. It’s toe that is responsible for tire wear, not camber. May be your toe needed to be adjusted correctly

They told me both were out and they could get it close but not back into spec, which is why they recommended the plates / brackets. They got back in spec after I put those parts on and provided printouts for both to back up their statements.

 

[luc]

They told me both were out and they could get it close but not back into spec, which is why they recommended the plates / brackets. They got back in spec after I put those parts on and provided printouts for both to back up their statements.

As I said it’s toe that is responsible for tire wear, not camber ( to a point)
So even with a out of specs camber they could have adjuster the toe correctly
What was, for the front only, camber on both sides, before and after and same for toe ?
Something don’t make sense and I would bet they screwed up the toe
Btw, there is a huge acceptable range ( that’s called/is the green range) on their machine/print out and that is far from being The right way to do an alignment
You want a specific number, not a range

 

[beefcake]

I am planning to lower my Mustang GT PP1 with Steeda progressive lowering springs. Do I need caster/camber, bumpsteer and rear camber? What else would I need? I also have 4500 miles. Thanks in advance. Ed.

Let me know if I can help out with a set of the Steeda Progressives. CC plates aren't required as long as the shop can get the alignment in spec. If they can't you can do a set of camber bolts on the front or if you want the adjustability you can do a set of CC plates. Rear they should be able to get it in spec as well but if you want the adjustability you can do the camber arms as well.

Hit me up and we can get you dialed in for sure.

Feel Free to DM me or call with any questions.
Terry "Beefcake" Reeves
Office - 855-TBR-RACE
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Deal Directly with the boss, no pushy sales guys!!!!!!!
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[Dave2013M3]

My specs for alignment with OEM plates were

Front: Camber -1.5 Total Toe: 0.00
Rear: Camber -1.9 Total Toe: 0.23

About 8k miles on this setup , as I installed it when car was new and front tires are wearing perfectly and my rears are about gone with even wear, more from them being worn by all that horsepower and a heavy car.

 

[coz0502]

As I said it’s toe that is responsible for tire wear, not camber ( to a point)
So even with a out of specs camber they could have adjuster the toe correctly
What was, for the front only, camber on both sides, before and after and same for toe ?
Something don’t make sense and I would bet they screwed up the to
Btw, there is a huge acceptable range ( that’s called/is the green range) on their machine/print out and that is far from being The right way to do an alignment
You want a specific number, not a range

I'm not an expert on alignments or suspension, just trying to relay my experience. This was a few years back as well.

I just pulled the printout and it was front toe on both that was the problem.
Prior to alignment left front toe was -2.4 and right front toe was -1.9.
After plates and another alignment FLT was -1.6 and FRT was -1.5

Right rear camber was -2.2 which is still in spec but tech noted it was maxed out and after adding the brackets is was -1.6

These are the parts I purchased that resolved the issue

Front

Rear

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