Less Common or Obscure Bolt ons

[Nuked]

There is a little thing who could give you some small extra Hp.
a thiner oil like the OW.
I also use MOTORKOTE which is probably one of the best friction reducer outthere.(superior to ceratec )
Ow40 Engine oil (what i use) with motorkote
And motorkote to diff.
If you have a manual you could add it to the trans too for protection
I track my car
So i reduced weight
Lighter wheel 19x11 are 11lbs min lighter. With a 305mm you still 5lbs lighter per wheel
Rotor
Girodisc are 11 lbs lighter each
Rear rotors. Steeda has an option 2 lbs lighter but there is another option 6 lbs lighter. (Check opmustang.com for a group buy)
Carbonfiber drive shaft is about 11lbs lighter. (Still don't have it. )
Rear seat delete save 37.5lbs.
Pass seat 50

Another way to reduce drag is with aero stuff
A hood vent helps for downforce reducing lifting and alao with cooling
A rear diffuser helps to limit the parachutes effect of our bumper.
Hope this help

I've been very happy with 0w40, not only in the mustang but other past cars as well. Good all around weight IMO.

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[Flyhalf]

I might pass to 5w50 for my (mainly) track car. 0w is a little too thin. Plus seating at 280f always..i like the idea of a better protection at high temp (50)
But again for max power Ow is great. And walmart sells mobil1 for a good price

 

[1958cyclist]

I don't know if you're a straight line kind of person only, but I can say that this platform responds very nicely to suspension modes. If you choose the right ones, the cost/benefit can be remarkable.

 

[Htk084]

Sorry for the stupid question, but do suspension mods add weight?

I don't know if you're a straight line kind of person only, but I can say that this platform responds very nicely to suspension modes. If you choose the right ones, the cost/benefit can be remarkable.

 

[Nuked]

Sorry for the stupid question, but do suspension mods add weight?

Depends on the mod. Some stuff may actually be lighter (hollow sway bars, aluminum pieces etc) and most your replacing an existing part. Some things will add weight like braces etc. All in all it is probably a wash more times than not.

 

[Htk084]

What about just your standard suspension mods like springs and bars? Like common packages you see from Steeda, etc.

Depends on the mod. Some stuff may actually be lighter (hollow sway bars, aluminum pieces etc) and most your replacing an existing part. Some things will add weight like braces etc. All in all it is probably a wash more times than not.

 

[markmurfie]

0w is the winter rating, like when the oil is at temps below 32F or 0C. Mainly so the oil flows well during startup on cold winter mornings. All oils thin when heated. The number after that is the weight at operating temp. Its the one you should mostly care about as its the rating the engine will see while operating. So if you run 5w20(reccomended), it is thinner at operating temp than 0w40. 5w50 that is recommended in high stress, racing conditions is even thicker. Thicker deals with any extra heat better. Thinner is easier for the pump to move freeing up power, a very small amount, not even as much as a turnone power steering pump on those old chevy motors. These cars have electric powerassisted steering, and smart alternators that stop charging reducing load even further when the torque demand gets high enough. Ford really did make it hard to improve on things with out getting very expensive or major sacrifices. Octane or E85 are your best friends. Anything you can do to keep things cooler with out sacrificing air flow or messing up aerodynamics. Anything you are willing to do to remove weight. Then its all about getting a wheel and tire/ suspension to put it to the ground, especially on the violent shifts of the A10.

After burning up three sets of clutches in my diff, I went to a wavetrac. It's great, and I wish I went to it sooner.
The next part to break after that mod was my circleD TC clutch, and I just haven't wanted to deal with it, so cars been down for a bit.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

MMR and meizire(?) have electric water pumps. ~10hp and some weight off the nose of the car. MMR, Steeda, and someone else has lightweight water pump pulleys, not really worth much, but every bit counts. Jpc has an under drive alternator pulley. Aerospace belt driven crankcase evac system- claims 20-40 hp, but risk running the pins dry. There’s a bit out there, but unless your max effort, it’s really not worth the small gains for such high price.

Yeah, you're right about the water pump pulley being a max effort only mod. I really wanted to pull the trigger on the MMR water pump pulley, but it's only 0.75 lbs lighter than the factory pulley. I realize it's spinning and the rotational intertia is reduced and thus frees up a tiny bit of hp in the engine. However, even if it's equivalent to removing 4x of non rotating sprung weight because of it's high rotational speed, the hp gains are still likely only equivalent to removing ~3 lbs from the car, give or take. 3 lbs is miniscule. Less than 1 tenth of 1 percent. That's less than the pizzas I picked up today and brought home to the family. I can't imagine it adds more than about 1/2 hp to the engine. If it was 3 hp, sure, I'd spend the $80. But 1/2 hp? No thanks.

lI'll not waste my money on that and just consider the electric water pump down the line, years from now when I've maxed out everything else (LTHs, heads/cams/tune, etc.).

 

[gameovergt]

Yeah, you're right about the water pump pulley being a max effort only mod. I really wanted to pull the trigger on the MMR water pump pulley, but it's only 0.75 lbs lighter than the factory pulley. I realize it's spinning and the rotational intertia is reduced and thus frees up a tiny bit of hp in the engine. However, even if it's equivalent to removing 4x of non rotating sprung weight because of it's high rotational speed, the hp gains are still likely only equivalent to removing ~3 lbs from the car, give or take. 3 lbs is miniscule. Less than 1 hundredth of 1 percent. That's less than the pizzas I picked up today and brought home to the family. I can't imagine it adds more than about 1/2 hp to the engine. If it was 3 hp, sure, I'd spend the $80. But 1/2 hp? No thanks.

lI'll not waste my money on that and just consider the electric water pump down the line, years from now when I've maxed out everything else (LTHs, heads/cams/tune, etc.).

I just got 1 haaha. less than $100 so maybe worth it. Guess looks alone worth the cost.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

I just got 1 haaha. less than $100 so maybe worth it. Guess looks alone worth the cost.

Ha, nice. I just couldn't bring myself to spend $80 on that. If it was $45 I probably would have pulled the trigger.

 

[gameovergt]

Ha, nice. I just couldn't bring myself to spend $80 on that. If it was $45 I probably would have pulled the trigger.

got the ARP bolts also lol

 

[Andrew@Lethal]

I'm curious if there are any less common or obscure bolt-ons that are available for the Gen 3 Coyote that can be done to increase hp. I'm not referring to the common ones such as: tune, aftermarket air intake, ported TB, intake manifold (ported, CJ, etc.), headers, and catback.

I haven't dug deep enough into the less common ones yet on the Mustang as I've just recently started considering bolt ons for my 2018 GT. I'm curious what else is out there and available.

Back in my LT1 F body Trans Am days, I did a lot of these less common or obscure bolt-ons in addition to the ones I list above that most of my buddies weren't doing that when combined together, made for a more powerful LT1 compared to others that stuck with the more common bolt on approach only. I did all the common bolt ons and an aftermarket Comp cams 305 (w/ aftermarket valve springs/lifters/hardened push rods, etc.). I was beating full bolt on LS1s with my setup.

I also did the following: Electric water pump, high ratio roller rocker arms, TB coolant bypass, radiator manual/auto fan control switch, 160 deg F temperature thermostat, underdrive pulley (slows the accessory drives, reducing accessory drag) and maybe others I can't think of off the top of my head right now. I loved having the electric water pump and manual fan switch (low/high/auto). Between passes at the drag strip, while others were icing their intake manifolds, I'd simply turn my engine off, but turn the water pump on and the radiator fans on high. I could drop the coolant temp. a large amount in just a few minutes. The Electric WP also added a bit of power since the pulley losses were gone (the stock water pump ran off the camshaft).

Those mods you listed are the most popular because they don't break the bank and make good power in return. A big thing to decrease your times is to upgrade the suspension and run a nice performance tire. Meth injection is also an uncommon mod. Keeping the temps down is also vital such as running electric fans, larger radiators, and ice tanks. Upgrading the thermostat is also an underrated mod. Shoot me a message if you have any more questions.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

got the ARP bolts also lol

Just following up on this post: Did you install the MMR pulley? Notice any difference in throttle response or top end pull? I realize it may be hard to feel a few hp or less when there's 460+ hp on tap so I'm not expecting much. I emailed MMR because I've been stuck on this piece for a while mainly due to removing the rotational weight, and they said it adds around 5 hp to the Coyote. That seems pretty optimistic, but I told myself if he said 2-3 hp I'd order it (thinking they would say ~1 hp), so I did. It also removes 0.8 lbs of very fast spinning rotational mass off the front of the engine which is weight over the front axles. It should be here in a few days.

Speaking of weight, I've also been focusing on removing unnecessary weight, in general, as suggested here.

 

[Jordan @ Lethal]

Honestly, Several people are right on the money. These engines are already extremely well equipped from factory, making squeezing out hp from things like an electric water pump otherwise negligible. Your bread and butter on these cars is breathing, and especially for the 18+ cars e85. I've got several friends with long tubes/intakes and e85 putting over 500 at the wheels. It's stupid how the gen 3 coyotes (which doesn't need larger injectors for e85) gain such crazy hp. Call us up at lethal, pick our brains.

custom-tunes-2

 

[gameovergt]

Just following up on this post: Did you install the MMR pulley? Notice any difference in throttle response or top end pull? I realize it may be hard to feel a few hp or less when there's 460+ hp on tap so I'm not expecting much. I emailed MMR because I've been stuck on this piece for a while mainly due to removing the rotational weight, and they said it adds around 5 hp to the Coyote. That seems pretty optimistic, but I told myself if he said 2-3 hp I'd order it (thinking they would say ~1 hp), so I did. It also removes 0.8 lbs of very fast spinning rotational mass off the front of the engine which is weight over the front axles. It should be here in a few days.

Speaking of weight, I've also been focusing on removing unnecessary weight, in general, as suggested here.

Nothing noticeable but it looks good. Lol

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