L1663, GT500 CFTP, the story

[kilobravo]

I was surprised to find this thread but search came through.

Sooo....

In preparation for paint correction #2 and applying a ceramic coating, I started to mask off my girl yesterday. Pulled the hood vent which will make things much easier but she looks pretty strange without it.

Then, I saw that I would have to remove the wing to get a polisher under it and the whole process was pretty funny. Had pillows on the deck lid, wife at the far end, pulled the last two bolts and off she came. We laughed at the absence of weight! I bet the thing doesn't even tip the scales at two pounds.

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As expected however, the deck lid was ugly.

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Tom (@Tomster): I know you had the body shop clean up the holes on yours but I am wondering what the group think is on using a rust inhibitor product? I'm debating whether I should Dremel around the area first then prime and paint or whether to just cover it with an inhibitor and keep it dry? Ideas anyone?

TIA

View attachment 554363

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[Tomster]

I was surprised to find this thread but search came through.

Sooo....

In preparation for paint correction #2 and applying a ceramic coating, I started to mask off my girl yesterday. Pulled the hood vent which will make things much easier but she looks pretty strange without it.

Then, I saw that I would have to remove the wing to get a polisher under it and the whole process was pretty funny. Had pillows on the deck lid, wife at the far end, pulled the last two bolts and off she came. We laughed at the absence of weight! I bet the thing doesn't even tip the scales at two pounds.

​

As expected however, the deck lid was ugly.

​

Tom (@Tomster): I know you had the body shop clean up the holes on yours but I am wondering what the group think is on using a rust inhibitor product? I'm debating whether I should Dremel around the area first then prime and paint or whether to just cover it with an inhibitor and keep it dry? Ideas anyone?

TIA

View attachment 554363

If it was me doing it, I would use an etching primer on exposed steel. If it was all rusty, then I would touch it lightly with sandpaper or dremel and then prime and paint.

I wouldn't go nuts on the paint correction..... Ford paint and clear is pretty thin.

 

[kilobravo]

Thanks, Tom..first I ever heard of an "etching primer." Is this a Homeless Depot kinda run or to the automotive paint store? I like your plan.

As for the clear, I have a very accurate paint depth gauge and all I can say from my personal experience so far is, the paint thickness on the Mustang and the SD are very comparable to the Cadillac next door. Anyway, I don't ever remove more than about 5 microns during a polishing session and there are plenty of those left on Sarah. Good tip though. Since she's already well-polished and virtualy scratch and mark-free, I'll be using an Ultra-Fine pad and M205 with multiple Rupes units. That's about as minimally aggressive as you can get.

 

[kilobravo]

Edit: Do you remember where you picked up that gasket material, Tom or didja have it in the parts locker?

 

[Tomster]

Edit: Do you remember where you picked up that gasket material, Tom or didja have it in the parts locker?

Its professional auto body primer. Etchimg primer is mostly used for aluminum and stainless, but i find it is a very durable primer for most metals. Go to your auto body supply. Im sure you can get a rattle can.

If you want some of the gasket material, I can send you some.

 

[kilobravo]

Dope, dude, I'll check my SW Auto Paint store on Monday and Hell amigo, if you have enough gasket material for my two brackets, I'll take you up on the offer and THANK YOU.

I just finished hitting one side of the deck lid where the brakets attach with a fine pad and M105, it cleaned up considerably and what I thought was rust under paint is just where Ford deformed the holes. It's clean, zero rust so I will just do as you suggested, get some etching primer, give them a coat or two and then some Rapid touch-up should duit. I haven't looked at the condition of the O rings but hopefully, they're in good shape and I'll put some of my magic pool chidt lube on them to keep them pliable.

Oh yeah...I thought I'd mention that Penske defintely lays down some paint! Everywhere there are stripes there is no kidding, over twice the thickness of paint found on the rest of the car. Typically, I see factory paint measure out anywhere from 125-150 microns and Ford is right in there with GM. Sarah's stripes however have over 250 and they blended it towards the sides as the depth slowly decreases but never goes below 200.

So, no worries about polishing the striped areas as there is undoubtedly a whole lot more clear there. Even so, I treat all the clear as if it's ultra thin. :-)

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