Koni is here!

[Todd15Fastback]

How's the ride comfort with those settings?

Very good. I drove it 1600 miles from GA to TN to VA to PA back to VA then back to GA. I had zero complaints.

The ride is firm but not jarring at all.

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[Sithel]

With the BMR perfomance springs I had all 4 at 1.25 turns from full soft, and I felt it was a little bouncy. Now I am 1.75 turns from full soft and it firmed it up enough to where I'm happy with the ride. Firmer yet still comfortable.

 

[Joshg120]

I tried out full stiffness on the koni's this weekend, the ride on full stiff (2.5 turns) is quite aggressive you can feel how stiff it is just backing the car out of the driveway. The car handles amazing on full stiffness settings, the car can put down power through turns amazingly, but I feel like you really only feel the benefits when you are hammering the car through turns, its a great setting but I think it really only has a place for aggressive track/autocross/mountain driving.

I ended up setting them .5 turns off of full soft and I must say for DD this is an ideal setting for my purposes. The car is quite compliant with the softer settings and still has great handling characteristics. I have been running them around 1.25 for the past 3 weeks and it is was just a little too stiff given I commute on some rough patches and through parking garages, etc. I will put some more miles on at this setting and then I may try out the 1.75 turn for a week but for now this is what I'm going to be running with

 

[zuki_dan]

I competed in autocross both days this weekend and I cranked the fronts up 2 turns from soft and backs up to 1.5 turns from soft. I could tell immediately how much stiffer the car was and handled awesome on the courses both days. I even drove home and back with them at the same settings and they weren't bad but you could tell they were stiff. BTW I have my BMR sways set at full stiff for the autocross. When I finished yesterday I put them back to a tick off zero turns and I find this to be a great DD setting for my car and still much more sporty than the factory shocks.

 

[Moddiction]

^Are you coming from a PP shocks or base GT shocks?

 

[zuki_dan]

^Are you coming from a PP shocks or base GT shocks?

[MENTION=19254]Moddiction[/MENTION]I am coming from the base/non-PP shocks with BMR performance springs. When I installed the front struts I also added Steeda camber plates.

There is a drastic difference between the non-PP shocks to the Koni's in terms of handling in my opinion. The Koni's control the weight of the car much better.

 

[Hinds90]

Any complaints from the guys who have these with sportlines?

 

[markmurfie]

none at all. Im glad I bought mine before steeda came out with their shocks. trying to make the choice would be tough. You probably cant go wrong with either, but the konis where probably my best decision i've made when it comes to modifying my car. rims and tires are coming very very soon.

 

[GTtreefiddy]

I fucked up pretty badly. Was losing light and rushed through the strut install and tried to force on the OEM nut on the Koni strut. Koni nut will not go on the strut now - I think both the nut and strut threads are messed up.

Ended up finishing that corner with the remaining Koni but now have a brand-new cross-threaded strut and nut. You think I can salvage it with a tap and die set or was this an expensive lesson?

 

[scott_0]

I fucked up pretty badly. Was losing light and rushed through the strut install and tried to force on the OEM nut on the Koni strut. Koni nut will not go on the strut now - I think both the nut and strut threads are messed up.

Ended up finishing that corner with the remaining Koni but now have a brand-new cross-threaded strut and nut. You think I can salvage it with a tap and die set or was this an expensive lesson?

you talking about where the strut goes through the mount? did you use an impact on it Im guessing? should be an easy fix as the threads are so large, either a tap and die set for the strut or a small file to clean up the threads. the nut can be easily replaced

 

[GTtreefiddy]

Thanks - it doesnt look too bad. Maybe the top two rows of threads are bad but everything else is perfectly intact.

I'm just going to order a new one and not bother. I'll post the other for sale at a deep discount for someone more motivated to fix the thread. Stupid mistake but it's helping me cope knowing that burning $170 is still cheaper than paying a shop to install it.

 

[wildcatgoal]

If I had done this, I'd run over to King Auto nearby me and Gene would fix it in 10 min. That is to say, any respectable mom&pop auto repair shop and $50 will fix that.

 

[GTtreefiddy]

Anyone know the nut size? I found the pitch: 1.5

The threads on the stock look good after filing in some of the channels but the nut has some crud on one side and that's where it's erring hung up now. Want to try and brand new nut.

Update:
found a tap that fit the nut and cleaned up the threads. The bolt on the strut was too big for the dies we had so my buddy used a few small files and was able clean up the threads enough to get the nut to screw on. It's not the smoothest at the top once it gets past the top it screws on smoothly.

 

[plc268]

Hey, I'm trying to assemble the pieces before I put them on the car. Currently I'm trying to take care of the rear shocks. I'm using the bump stops that come with the eibach pro kit, and for the life of me, I just can't get them to go on. I even drilled the bump stop a little bit to enlarge the hole (probably have to bigger, but don't have a bigger bit right now). I'm putting enough pressure on the bump stop that it's compressing the shock.

Anyone else had issues on getting the bump stops from the eibach kit on?

 

[crashdb]

I haven't installed these, but judging by the fact that you have to drill out the top mount, the shaft on the shock is bigger, so either grease up the bump stop and try harder, or enlarge the hole.

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