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Digital_Synapse

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OOoopsy. Forgot to post this earlier.

Just to show those who are questioning it.

Definitely not questioning whether or not the things CAN turn 2.5 turns, I'm questioning if the additional 0.5 turns actually does anything since 2.5 x 360 is >720 degrees, the maximum amount of workable adjustment as described by the manufacturer.
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BMR Tech

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Whatever range the adjustment moves, IS part of the full adjustment range.

0 to 100%.

So if it goes 2.657896 turns and stops, you are at 100% of the adjustment range when you hit that stop.
 

Digital_Synapse

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So I just got off the phone with a representative at Koni North America. There apparently seems to be some tolerances in the shock and strut production. He said the majority of the adjustment should be between zero and two full turns. But it is possible for the adjustment to continue turning and that is to be taken into account. So whatever force is generated at full soft with the rebound dampening effect, it will be double the force when you reach full firm. So there are variances from each individual piece, your left one maybe 2 1/2 turns and the right one maybe 2 1/4 turns from full soft to full firm. Wherever the adjustment stops turning at the low-end is your zero, and wherever it stops turning at the high-end is your 100%. Because if you have any turns after two full turns, that is still doing adjustment. It is moving the spring inside the valving, it's not just spinning freely. :clap2::cheers:
 

BMR Tech

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In other words. Ignore the yellow sheet.

Use the adjustment you have available.

;)
 

BMR Tech

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So I just got off the phone with a representative at Koni North America. There apparently seems to be some tolerances in the shock and strut production. He said the majority of the adjustment should be between zero and two full turns. But it is possible for the adjustment to continue turning and that is to be taken into account. So whatever force is generated at full soft with the rebound dampening effect, it will be double the force when you reach full firm. So there are variances from each individual piece, your left one maybe 2 1/2 turns and the right one maybe 2 1/4 turns from full soft to full firm. Wherever the adjustment stops turning at the low-end is your zero, and wherever it stops turning at the high-end is your 100%. Because if you have any turns after two full turns, that is still doing adjustment. It is moving the spring inside the valving, it's not just spinning freely. :clap2::cheers:
This is correct.

:thumbsup:
 

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Todd15Fastback

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In other words. Ignore the yellow sheet.

Use the adjustment you have available.

;)
Everyone that I have seen with these have right at 2.5 turns of adjustment.
 

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I just needed to hear it from the horses mouth. For mine and everyone here's benefit and safety. :)
I agree on getting things confirmed. Thanks for taking the time to give Koni a call. I could of asked them at Carlisle as I briefly chatted with them but this topic never came up:thumbsup:
 

ForTehNguyen

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alignment for the BMR SP089/SP082 + Konis. Front camber just barely out of spec, I'll wing it. Everything else is in spec. Since Im running square, i can rotate them out.

 

MaverickGT

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So I just got off the phone with a representative at Koni North America. There apparently seems to be some tolerances in the shock and strut production. He said the majority of the adjustment should be between zero and two full turns. But it is possible for the adjustment to continue turning and that is to be taken into account. So whatever force is generated at full soft with the rebound dampening effect, it will be double the force when you reach full firm. So there are variances from each individual piece, your left one maybe 2 1/2 turns and the right one maybe 2 1/4 turns from full soft to full firm. Wherever the adjustment stops turning at the low-end is your zero, and wherever it stops turning at the high-end is your 100%. Because if you have any turns after two full turns, that is still doing adjustment. It is moving the spring inside the valving, it's not just spinning freely. :clap2::cheers:
Good info. Haven't tried to go 2.5 turns. I always set it back to full soft - 0 turns and adjust from there. That way I know 1 full turn is the half way point. On my prior Mustang I only tried 2 full turns once. Didn't know I could go more.
 

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Sithel

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alignment for the BMR SP089/SP082 + Konis. Front camber just barely out of spec, I'll wing it. Everything else is in spec. Since Im running square, i can rotate them out.
I got my alignment done yesterday with the koni's and the BMR SP080 front/rear springs and after looking at yours, I would have thought my camber would have been better in the rear. I still might take it back and have it rechecked but it does seem odd after seeing yours. I also had front camber bolts and rear tie rod end, which I know don't help a lot but some. I also made it clear to him via picture of the rear camber adjustment. Although the car is riding perfectly, the rear camber has me a little concerned being I can't rotate. Hmmm

Here's how mine came out:

Front
Left Camber: -1.6 ~ Caster: 7.2 ~ Toe: .10
Right Camber: -1.6 ~ Caster: 7.3 ~ Toe: .09
Total Toe .19

Rear
Left Camber: -2.1 ~ Toe: .11
Right Camber: -1.9 ~ Toe: .09
Thrust Angle .01
 

ForTehNguyen

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since your 080 and my 082 drop the same in the rear you should be able to get it in spec like me. It took the alignment guy a little longer to do the rears since its a slotted adjustment, have to use pry bars, not as easy as an eccentric bolt
 

Moddiction

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What stiffness settings are you guys setting these at for the street?
 

Todd15Fastback

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What stiffness settings are you guys setting these at for the street?
I am at 1.25 turns at each corner, so 50% if you will. This is paired with Steeda ultralite linear springs, too.

Thinking about adding another quarter turn at each corner to see how much difference it makes.
 

Moddiction

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How's the ride comfort with those settings?
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