Jmeo's 2020 Shelby American GT500 SE Wide Body Build (+ "Phase 2")

Evolvd

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Just got home and this was the best I could do without help. Not sure if you will need to see the whole side of the car to get the drift of what I was saying but here we go.

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The painter didn’t do a great job masking off all the edges. That’s the first thing my eyes caught.
 
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Jmeo

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The painter didn’t do a great job masking off all the edges. That’s the first thing my eyes caught.
The whole thing was painted and the black detail was painted back by hand. Studying the photo I see what you are referring to but to the eye it's not noticeable. They look incredible in person.

That said the issue I think I am having is now that the side (the part that returns to the car) is white instead of fake metal which is much different than the OE and looks cartoonish.....
 

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As you have asked for opinions I will try to be constructive and not negative (too much of that on here lately) :like:

The painter didn’t do a great job masking off all the edges. That’s the first thing my eyes caught.
I would agree with the above :frown: (I wanted to like that comment, but kind of felt bad for doing so).

Paint fill would be a very difficult thing to do well on that badge.

Paint fill typically looks much better / neater if it can be flatted back and leveled to give sharp defined edges, which would be near impossible with the white paint and the design of that badge - which leads me onto my main observation ...

I think the biggest problem is that due to the multiple layers of paint and lacquer, the badges have lost their original 'sharpness' and 'definition' which I think contributes to the cartoon look that you describe :frown:

The use of three colours / shades on the original badges has also been lost, I think the three colours adds to the 'quality' look of the originals.

If it were me, I would keep the originals on the car and use the painted badges to decorate some of the coolest filing cabinets / office door name placards etc around the office :sunglasses:

WD :like:
 

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Not sure if you will need to see the whole side of the car to get the drift of what I was saying but here we go.
Unfortunately, those were enough Jaime and I'm afraid I have to agree with you, I like the non-painted OEM version. I was almost positive the white would look killer but when I saw the photos, I saw what you were describing. It no longer looks metal, my brain tells me "painted plastic."

Sorry about that my friend but that's my two cents.
 

OF5.0

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Jaime, white has a tendency to soften edges and angles. In this case, in particular, the connection between the upper and lower fangs needs to be black. I think that just painting the outside edge perpendicular to the fender black would fix this and be a quick job.
 
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Jmeo

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Yup, I agree with everything you all said, which is why I came here to see if it was just me. They don't look right, no matter the expert level of the painter. The white really does blur the crisp lines.

Eyes alone don't let you reverse pinch to zoom in and see things you wouldn't otherwise see, thats why they look great in person. Regardless of the quality of work, the loss of definition from all white edges turns me off.

Oh well, it was worth a try. The Bemaro film on the snakes hasn't been an issue as much as the rear panel, so that good.

Peace out fellas, thanks for the input.
 

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The emblems could be 3D printed in multiple colors (here bk & wh) from ABS and than smoothed with the use of acetone fumes (you'll see a print texture otherwise).
The emblem is needed as a 3D model (maybe 3D scan it) and you need someone with the appropriate SLA multi color printer and the necessary experience.
Sealing the parts with clear coat should give them quite a high quality appearance.
Maybe worth a try, but not inexpensive.
 

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My apologies for my curt response, I wasn’t intending to be insulting. Trust your instincts and do what makes ya happy, our opinion be damned 😉
 

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Should have came that way from Ford. Such a beautiful kit.
 
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Jmeo

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The emblems could be 3D printed in multiple colors (here bk & wh) from ABS and than smoothed with the use of acetone fumes (you'll see a print texture otherwise).
The emblem is needed as a 3D model (maybe 3D scan it) and you need someone with the appropriate SLA multi color printer and the necessary experience.
Sealing the parts with clear coat should give them quite a high quality appearance.
Maybe worth a try, but not inexpensive.
Way above my skill level, but I would love to see such a thing happen.
 
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Jmeo

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My apologies for my curt response, I wasn’t intending to be insulting. Trust your instincts and do what makes ya happy, our opinion be damned 😉
No skin off my teeth Brian. You did not insult me in any way, I didn't paint it. That said, they really do look MUCH better to the naked (non focusing) eye.

I wasn't looking for approval, I was looking to see if others saw what I saw, as to check if it was just me that wasn't liking the outcome. The concept of my idea sounded like a home run but it was a foul ball at best.
 

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Way above my skill level, but I would love to see such a thing happen.
There should be businesses, that could do this for you? At least over here there are.
 
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Jmeo

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And moving on……

What’s nice is with the GT500 front pipes and the Shelby (by Borla) cat back this Switchfire connects without any adaptors and is easily the largest diameter mid muff/reso/delete pipe I’ve seen.

before you ask, I only heard cold start up and idle so far but it sounds glorious.

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Jmeo

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So you switched it from the Shelby by Borla to a straight Borla Atak?
No, I just swapped out the mid muffler that came in the kit for a Switchfire mid pipe. I am not sure how the Shelby (by Borla) mufflers compare to the Borla Atak mufflers. They do look similar as far as my research has shown, but they could be different internally. In my opinion The cold start up and idle do not seem to be much louder than stock as far as decible, but it seems to have more bass.

Looking forward to test driving it on Wednesday, weather depending.
 
 
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