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Is this the right way to change my wheels?

Cory S

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Why is the spec ridiculous? Torque isn't some arbitrary value, it's an approximate way of measuring stretch, which is what actually defines how tight something is. If the engineers called for 150 ft/lbs, you use 150 ft/lbs, lol. You don't get to decide what you think is acceptable. And I don't mean that in an offensive way, I just don't get the logic of deciding you know better than the people who engineered the setup.
Because most numbers have a degree of trying to stop stupidity these days. To reduce lawsuits etc. From what I’ve seen with 150lb-ft lug nut torque on these cars, it galls the threads and distorts the lug nuts pretty easily. Tighter isn’t always better. My truck is 5200lbs, caries a 31” tire and uses a 9/16” stud. Torque spec is 130lb-ft. I have also seen more problems with stripped threads, seized lug nuts, destroyed lug nuts etc when going to 150.
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ice445

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Because most numbers have a degree of trying to stop stupidity these days. To reduce lawsuits etc. From what I’ve seen with 150lb-ft lug nut torque on these cars, it galls the threads and distorts the lug nuts pretty easily. Tighter isn’t always better. My truck is 5200lbs, caries a 31” tire and uses a 9/16” stud. Torque spec is 130lb-ft. I have also seen more problems with stripped threads, seized lug nuts, destroyed lug nuts etc when going to 150.
The Camaro uses the same spec, IIRC it has nothing to do with weight, and everything to do with lateral grip and cornering loads. The studs can handle it, but the chinesium lugs cannot after a long period of time. Doesn't mean the spec is wrong though, at least in my opinion. I walk into the spec with a smooth motion with my torque wrench and yet to have a single issue
 

WD Pro

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21mm will speed up the problem with the stock nuts loosening their stainless caps (as will an impact gun).

21mm feels 'loose' and 13/16" feels 'right' (I have both new sockets and nuts to compare) :like:

WD :like:
 

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I love it when people who don't know anything about engineering like to make up specs all by themselves. Just like so many things in the world now, just because you have an opinion, doesn't mean it's worth anything.

150 ft-lb is within the standard range to achieve proper bolt stretch for an M14x1.5. If your wheels or lug nuts have issues being tightened to that level, get better parts.
 

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150 ft-lb sounded excessive to me, since my Focus called for 100. But sure enough, this is the spec for the Mustang.

I'm very conservative with wheel nut torque, since the studs got damaged on the Focus by a ham-fisted technician. Not wanting to replace another hub anytime soon.

Torque.JPG
 

luc

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I torque mine to 120-125lb-ft. They don't budge. 150 is completely ridiculous.
.... say the guy that seems to know better than mechanical engineers..
Ever looked up a torque values charts for fasteners, 14mm in this case?
 

rxryanm

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Definitely get some jack stands. You will need them to rotate the tires anyway so get some now. I never work on a raised car and trust the jack. Always use a jack stand.

some will disagree, but I don’t take silly risks.
FWIW if you're taking a single wheel off and back on before removing any other wheel, I think you can easily get by with just a jack. Last time I took a wheel off of mine, my car was in the air at the wheels by an inch.

I 100% use jack stands if it's going higher than that or if I'm actually going under.
 

CJJon

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FWIW if you're taking a single wheel off and back on before removing any other wheel, I think you can easily get by with just a jack. Last time I took a wheel off of mine, my car was in the air at the wheels by an inch.

I 100% use jack stands if it's going higher than that or if I'm actually going under.
It actually takes seconds to slide a jack stand under the car. Risking it is just dumb. The tire may be an inch above the ground, but once the tire comes off that really doesn't matter.

Maybe for you old timers that have jacked up a car a thousand times you might risk it. For people just starting out always use a jack stand. Don't be that guy.
 

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You torque the wheels to 150 not 100
And use the cross pattern it insures the wheel is seated too hub.


It actually takes seconds to slide a jack stand under the car. Risking it is just dumb. The tire may be an inch above the ground, but once the tire comes off that really doesn't matter.

Maybe for you old timers that have jacked up a car a thousand times you might risk it. For people just starting out always use a jack stand. Don't be that guy.
That is why there are old timers cause we use jack stands. "For people just starting" That cannot think thru a simple task such as this, is amazing....
 
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ctandc72

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You can…. But the Ford stock lugs are total pieces of shit…. They are aluminum caps over what appears to be pot metal. The caps get distorted and if the user is not aware, torquing to what may be 150, may not be if the caps are twisting

There is a thread on here somewhere about a Class Action suit regarding the factory lugs.

Glad you posted this. I changed lugs when I added SVE wheels to my car, but my wife's '17 EB Prem Ragtop still has factory wheels and lugs. Last time I rotated her tires I noticed the lugs were starting to distort a bit..........I need to order some better replacements.

Or maybe order some new wheels / lugs for my car and install mine on hers......hmmm
 

ctandc72

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Hi! So I ordered some PP wheels to put on my 20 GT. Is this process right?

1. Park car in garage and put parking brake on
2. Break the lugs
3. Put on the pinch weld adapter on the pinch weld (the cutout in the plastic thing on the side)
4. Jack up the car
5. Unscrew the lugs the rest of the way
6. Remove the wheel
7. Mount new wheel and finger tighten in a cross pattern
8. Lower car
9. Tighten to 100 foot pounds with my torque wrench (21 mm)
10. Lower car and move onto next wheel

I was going to just put the old wheel under the car in case it comes crashing down. Do I need Jack stands since I’m not going under the car?
Buy some jacking rails. Best investment you'll ever make on your S550 - even if you just use it to rotate tires and for oil changes. With the Steeda jacking rails on my '19 and my wife's '17 - I can jack up the front / middle of the jacking rail on one side with my floor jack and both wheels on that side will come up enough to rotate tires. It literally takes me longer to get my tools and check air pressure than it does to jack up and rotate tires on our Mustangs.
 

CJJon

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Yeah, I was shocked when I removed a lug to attach the locking lug nut. It was falling apart!

I immediately ordered a set of Gorillas
 

Cory S

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.... say the guy that seems to know better than mechanical engineers..
Ever looked up a torque values charts for fasteners, 14mm in this case?
Never said I know better. I know what’s safe and works as intended for my applications.
 

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If you are using the standard nuts, you need 13/16”, not the 21mm you quoted :like:

WD :like:

There is the answer plain and simple ..... ^

That suit will be a paper airplane. Before any pay off happens, not a chance.
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