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Installing New Speakers in B&O System

StangTime

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10 band parametric eq is ok. If you choose wisely on where you set the bands the result will be very good. That doesn‘t mean that the Helix isn‘t the better device.
Exactly. I prefer a 10 band parametric over a 31 band graphic eq anyday. For me, it's more flexible.
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StangTime

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unfortunately they don‘t ship to Germany. I wrote an email and asked about that, but never got an answer back.
Well that sucks. You should try and ask them again. Most companies are willing to ship anywhere if you are willing to pay the costs.
 

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I get it if someone wants to make sure they keep their trunk space valuable but JL is the only jokers who make this box that fits in that space that I know of. They are very smart to charge a shit ton for it so nobody buys it to throw away their sub par woofer. If I could buy the box only that would be great. There are so many better products out there subwoofer wise but no one else is willing to take the time to make a product specifically for the mustang. I would just skip the enclosure from JL and just make your own killer system. Just my thoughts.
If you followed my link, it's a link to a custom box in that area that is not JL but an audio company out of FL. So not sure what this post is all about.

There is a much cheaper solution to a custom box. Another member posted it as well in here.
 

The Demon

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If you followed my link, it's a link to a custom box in that area that is not JL but an audio company out of FL. So not sure what this post is all about.

There is a much cheaper solution to a custom box. Another member posted it as well in here.
Your post was after mine but I appreciate the info anyways.
 

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StangTime

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m3incorp

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He already has the rear speakers installed :) I am also one of those that prefer rear speakers. I know many others don't and that is ok also. Also, there are many installs that prefer to keep the tiny center dash speaker for their own reasons. There are many different approaches, as you have pointed out in your 3 different set-ups. What did you end up with?

I'd recommend to skip the 3.5 center dash and also the rear speakers. Also if possible, run the system fully active (6 channels and sub) with 6 channel amp+ mono amp for sub since you already have the TWK88. Active vs passive makes a significant difference on how you can dial in the system. I'm no audiophile expert, but trust me - I went through 3 different setups on my car, so I know. The only minor downside with TWK88 IMO is 10 band EQ instead of 31, this was the reason my installer recommend Helix DSP.3 over it.
 

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10 band parametric eq is ok. If you choose wisely on where you set the bands the result will be very good. That doesn‘t mean that the Helix isn‘t the better device.
Agreed. I got a new Helix for the same price as Twk88 so it was worth it.
He already has the rear speakers installed :) I am also one of those that prefer rear speakers. I know many others don't and that is ok also. Also, there are many installs that prefer to keep the tiny center dash speaker for their own reasons. There are many different approaches, as you have pointed out in your 3 different set-ups. What did you end up with?
Ohh too late then :)

Setup 1: My budget was $1500 so wanted to stick to that
I started out with RF DSR1 and a 6 channel 75W amp running Focal 165AS3 3-way front passive and for the rear speakers I went with Focal RCX165 co-ax (same as OP). I didn't do the center channel because it was 1 more channel that needed a more expensive amp. Besides, on stock 12-speaker Shaker Pro I disconnected the center speaker which made it sound better.

Setup 2: I ditched the RF DSR1 - honestly it was crap. The amp wasn't powerful enough so upgraded to Audio Control LC 6.1200 125W 6 channel amp, and along with that got the Helix DSP .3. The system was still passive and I wasn't able to dial in the front 3-way speakers properly with the provided crossovers

Setup 3: At this point, I wanted to try active. However I realized my DSP only had 8 channels of output. Going active meant I had to get a new DSP again and 9/10 channel DSPs were much more expensive. After talking to lot of people on here and other forums, most recommended getting rid of rear speakers. I also felt that the Focal RCX165 speakers didn't sound that great anyway. So I ran the front 3-way speakers active, removed the rear and got a mono-amp for the subwoofer in the trunk. This is my current setup, honestly it's way better running them active. I don't even miss or feel that the rear speakers are missing. If you have rear seat passengers often, you might need them but otherwise they just make it that more expensive for minimal gains. Just my personal opinion IMO

At this point, I'm a little over 3k into my system. I still don't like the Focals as much so eventually I'm planning on swapping the tweeters or get a new 3-way set.
 

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Oh, I know the pain with trying to get these systems to sound good. The Morel Temp Ultra 602s actually sound much better as rear speakers than the Focals but seem to be out of stock. Supposedly the Focal PC 165 FE makes great rear speakers but that is a hard pill to swallow at $450 bucks and possibly not like.

I bought the Focal Flax PS 165 F3E to take care of all 3 speakers in the doors. I haven't installed them yet but heard them in an $8K system set up in a guy's S550 while it was still in the install bay. No way I would spend $8K on the sound system. It did sound great though.

You are right the price adds up really fast to make these cars sound great. It is amazing how different the speakers sound in the Focal model line-up.

Agreed. I got a new Helix for the same price as Twk88 so it was worth it.


Ohh too late then :)

Setup 1: My budget was $1500 so wanted to stick to that
I started out with RF DSR1 and a 6 channel 75W amp running Focal 165AS3 3-way front passive and for the rear speakers I went with Focal RCX165 co-ax (same as OP). I didn't do the center channel because it was 1 more channel that needed a more expensive amp. Besides, on stock 12-speaker Shaker Pro I disconnected the center speaker which made it sound better.

Setup 2: I ditched the RF DSR1 - honestly it was crap. The amp wasn't powerful enough so upgraded to Audio Control LC 6.1200 125W 6 channel amp, and along with that got the Helix DSP .3. The system was still passive and I wasn't able to dial in the front 3-way speakers properly with the provided crossovers

Setup 3: At this point, I wanted to try active. However I realized my DSP only had 8 channels of output. Going active meant I had to get a new DSP again and 9/10 channel DSPs were much more expensive. After talking to lot of people on here and other forums, most recommended getting rid of rear speakers. I also felt that the Focal RCX165 speakers didn't sound that great anyway. So I ran the front 3-way speakers active, removed the rear and got a mono-amp for the subwoofer in the trunk. This is my current setup, honestly it's way better running them active. I don't even miss or feel that the rear speakers are missing. If you have rear seat passengers often, you might need them but otherwise they just make it that more expensive for minimal gains. Just my personal opinion IMO

At this point, I'm a little over 3k into my system. I still don't like the Focals as much so eventually I'm planning on swapping the tweeters or get a new 3-way set.
 

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Oh, I know the pain with trying to get these systems to sound good. The Morel Temp Ultra 602s actually sound much better as rear speakers than the Focals but seem to be out of stock. Supposedly the Focal PC 165 FE makes great rear speakers but that is a hard pill to swallow at $450 bucks and possibly not like.

I bought the Focal Flax PS 165 F3E to take care of all 3 speakers in the doors. I haven't installed them yet but heard them in an $8K system set up in a guy's S550 while it was still in the install bay. No way I would spend $8K on the sound system. It did sound great though.

You are right the price adds up really fast to make these cars sound great. It is amazing how different the speakers sound in the Focal model line-up.
Yeah the price adds up real quick and I've learnt my lesson the hard way :) Honestly, if I knew I'd end up spending this much, I'd never had messed with the audio system. On top of this, I've wasted another 900 on the 12-speaker option when ordering my car thinking it'd be decent but boy I was wrong. I really wouldn't recommend any S550 newbie to tinker with the audio on this car unless you're an audiophile, the trouble isn't worth it. And if you want to, you're better off skipping the 12-speaker option, save that money and spend on aftermarket. The DSP is crucial and it's better to budget at least 2k for install, a good Amp and speakers from the start - otherwise the costs really add up if you try experimenting
 
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Matthewstorm

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I'd recommend to skip the 3.5 center dash and also the rear speakers. Also if possible, run the system fully active (6 channels and sub) with 6 channel amp+ mono amp for sub since you already have the TWK88. Active vs passive makes a significant difference on how you can dial in the system. I'm no audiophile expert, but trust me - I went through 3 different setups on my car, so I know. The only minor downside with TWK88 IMO is 10 band EQ instead of 31, this was the reason my installer recommend Helix DSP.3 over it.
Already installed dash and rear speakers and Sub. Actually made a huge difference. The Dayton is awesome.
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