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Installing center gauges without dremel

luca1290

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Hello forum,

my GT is a 2022 EU version GT.
That means it has most, but not all of the Performance Package 1. I would like to install the center gauges that are missing.

I want to go full OEM, so except the gauges themselves and the dash trim, what I will need to replace to not have to dremel out the console?
Every guide I saw involves dremeling out a vent and some surrounding but I guess this is not how Ford does in the factory. There should be something that you can replace to make it OEM.

Does anybody know what?

Thanks,
Luca
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luca1290

luca1290

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I'll reply to my own thread: it's impossible to install the gauge pack without dremeling out bits and pieces because there are different part numbers for the dashes with and without the gauge pack.
The vents are also larger on the cars with the gauges.

I don't like the idea to have to saw pieces of the car away to make something fit, even if it's something that I do desire. But to each their own.
 

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I'll reply to my own thread: it's impossible to install the gauge pack without dremeling out bits and pieces because there are different part numbers for the dashes with and without the gauge pack.
The vents are also larger on the cars with the gauges.

I don't like the idea to have to saw pieces of the car away to make something fit, even if it's something that I do desire. But to each their own.
I feel the same way I do not like to cut stuff.
 

Nightmonkey

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What do you expect from these two meaningless gauges?
The relevant measured parameters for spirited driving with the Coyote 3 with manual transmission are the cylinder head temperature and the temperature of the rear axle differential.
For a vehicle with automatic transmission, the transmission temperature is also relevant.
These can be displayed in the speedometer (diff temp needs unlocking with ForScan).

The third vent has a greater benefit.
 
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luca1290

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What do you expect from these two meaningless gauges?
Nothing functional, but I like them.
I would have installed them only if the fully OEM way was feasible, and with reasonable effort.

The relevant measured parameters for spirited driving with the Coyote 3 with manual transmission are the cylinder head temperature and the temperature of the rear axle differential.
For a vehicle with automatic transmission, the transmission temperature is also relevant.
My exact MyGauges setup is: Rear axle diff temperature, oil pressure and transmission oil temperature.
I check CHT just to see that it's perfectly 90°C and that happens only after a reasonable time the engine oil has had time to fully warm up.
When the 10R80 is out of the blue zone (50°C) and CHT is stable at 90°C I begin to ask more. When the 10R80 is in the 90°C+ then we can begin talking about beating it.
If I had the oil pressure "mechanical" I would have replaced it for CHT, but not a big loss since I can access it with just a click.
 

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When the 10R80 is in the 90°C+ range you should think about adding additional cooling first. ;)
 

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oil pressure
I would replace that with the head temperature.
That is the relevant value, when engine goes into limp mode on the circuit.
 

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Hello forum,

my GT is a 2022 EU version GT.
That means it has most, but not all of the Performance Package 1. I would like to install the center gauges that are missing.

I want to go full OEM, so except the gauges themselves and the dash trim, what I will need to replace to not have to dremel out the console?
Every guide I saw involves dremeling out a vent and some surrounding but I guess this is not how Ford does in the factory. There should be something that you can replace to make it OEM.

Does anybody know what?

Thanks,
Luca
Do the EU cars have the required wire connection in the dash and ECU programming for the gauges?
 
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luca1290

luca1290

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When the 10R80 is in the 90°C+ range you should think about adding additional cooling first. ;)
There is absolutely no need.
The thermostat will open at about 87°C and the operating temperature of the transmission is between 96°C and 101°C. The temperature you posted is already below the minimum operating temperature.
 
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luca1290

luca1290

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Do the EU cars have the required wire connection in the dash and ECU programming for the gauges?
Sorry I can't help with this, didn't take the car apart to check this.
The ECU programming should not be a concern, the wiring is either no big deal, it's just power and CAN bus, you can tap into it by using an appropriate pigtail.
 

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Cathul

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There is absolutely no need.
The thermostat will open at about 87°C and the operating temperature of the transmission is between 96°C and 101°C. The temperature you posted is already below the minimum operating temperature.
The oil in the transmission will degrade a lot faster if > 90C.
That’s the same with every transmission on this planet.
 
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luca1290

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I would replace that with the head temperature.
That is the relevant value, when engine goes into limp mode on the circuit.
For general use I find more valuable to know the transmission temperature and rely on the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) indicator to be aware of any overeating issues.
Edit: I know the ECT is a calculated value, but this statement applies to "general everyday use".
 
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luca1290

luca1290

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The oil in the transmission will degrade a lot faster if > 90C.
That’s the same with every transmission on this planet.
There is a thermostat to avoid that the transmission will work under 96°C. On some 10R80 applications (F-150) there is also a transmission warmer to help with warm-up.
But I guess you know better, right?
 

Nightmonkey

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...rely on the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) indicator to be aware of any overeating issues
The heat dissipation from the head is insufficient in stock configuration, the rest of the cooling circuit is still in the green range when the head temperature sends you into limp mode.
The bottleneck in the thermal design is the head temperature at the rear cylinders, especially #8.

Possible solution, if you experience the issue: https://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=555
 

luc

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What do you expect from these two meaningless gauges?
The relevant measured parameters for spirited driving with the Coyote 3 with manual transmission are the cylinder head temperature and the temperature of the rear axle differential.
For a vehicle with automatic transmission, the transmission temperature is also relevant.
These can be displayed in the speedometer (diff temp needs unlocking with ForScan).

The third vent has a greater benefit.
????? What about oil pressure ?
Slightly more useful than a 3rd vent I would say
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