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Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

Ruiner46

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Run it on the original CARB Whipple tune for the emissions test if you're concerned. I have run my Magnum swap on the original whipple tune while troubleshooting a few things. Your speedo will be off, cruise control will not work and it will rev hang between shifts. The rev hang is a bit annoying, but it's totally drivable. No check engine light and the emissions monitors will all go green.
Beautiful, exactly what I wanted to hear.
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aleccolin

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Is the solution to the rev hang as simple as disabling something in the tune, or is it more involved than that? I have a custom dyno tune, need to get my tuner to email me a tune with the revised gear ratios, but I need to get rid of the damn rev hang also.
 

J17GT

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Is the solution to the rev hang as simple as disabling something in the tune, or is it more involved than that? I have a custom dyno tune, need to get my tuner to email me a tune with the revised gear ratios, but I need to get rid of the damn rev hang also.
Yes, I believe so. The stock tune has that upshift ‘rev match’ where it drops the RPMs to the right spot for smoother up shifts. I imagine it gets all confused due to the different gear ratios. There is a way to turn that off, I’m just not sure what it’s called in the tune.
 

aleccolin

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So I decided to delete the reverse lockout solenoid and use an RDE lockout detent instead. Since The car uses wheel speed for speedometer signal, can't I now just wire the reverse light switch back to the OE harness and eliminate the Bowler "all-in-one" bullshit all together?
 

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Ruiner46

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So I decided to delete the reverse lockout solenoid and use an RDE lockout detent instead. Since The car uses wheel speed for speedometer signal, can't I now just wire the reverse light switch back to the OE harness and eliminate the Bowler "all-in-one" bullshit all together?
Yes, I don't use the Bowler harness. Reverse light wires right in and for the VSS you can tie into the OEM harness, but just don't use the power wire. Signal and ground only, and then change the VSS counts/rev in the tune.
 

aleccolin

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Yes, I don't use the Bowler harness. Reverse light wires right in and for the VSS you can tie into the OEM harness, but just don't use the power wire. Signal and ground only, and then change the VSS counts/rev in the tune.
Okay so I had my tuner change the gear ratios and remove the gear shift hang, I didn't realize I could have them change the VSS also. What do they need to change it to?

Edit: I think I found it. Looks like the output on the T56 is 12 pulses/revolution and the MT82 is 36, so either I keep the Bowler harness just for that, or change it in the tune to 12.
 
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aleccolin

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My tune from Lund removed the initiated rev when pressing on the clutch and the rev hang as well.
Is the "initiated rev when pressing on the clutch" a feature that can be turned off, like the "gear shift hang"?
 

happysem

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First fully working conversion 2019 up, this installed in Bullitt, complete solution available soon when I complete parts and documentation.

No errors on dash, all system fully functional except rev match, that can be done with Xineering.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?st...iFSvr9h9CmofFJW741ABgavBhl&id=100063497469934
Dude please update when you can. I have a 2018 car and having MASSIVE issues getting this trans swap to work. About like that "supertorque" guy with his 19 Bullitt. About to pull this thing out, reinstall a MT82 and sell the car.

To anyone finding this, I have a Modern Driveline T56 MAGNUM XL swap conversion kit, tried to buy once cry once and get all the good upgrades I could. $8k into a swap I have a car that can only start by jumping the starter with a separate switch, some drive modes not working, no back up cam/reverse parking assist dings, clutch switch fail, hood switch fail (which causes wipers/squirters to not work!), airbag light, wrench light, BRAKE light all on.. Service advance track, traction control lights up occasionally. Tried replacing battery, sensors, playing with FORSCAN, etc. Ford dealer near me says that they had other issues with newer cars and this swap getting them to start/work as well. I have driven it a few hundred miles with the T56 to try to break it in and it feels massively better than the garbage MT82, but the "premium" functions of the car don't work currently.

Car drove 100% perfect with original MT82 never had a problem with any of the above mentioned stuff. About to call MDL back and tell them they need to figure this out. Pretty pissed. Seems like some people have problems and others don't. Not sure why. Will update with my own thread once I finally resolve or go back to stock.
 

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Ruiner46

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The other guy had trouble due to the rev matching feature and the sensor in the trans that tells what gear it's in. Do the 2018's have this feature?

Did you have tune changes for the new gear ratios and the OSS count/rev? How is the transmission wired? Are you using a conversion harness? Saw your clutch switch and starter button issues in another thread. That and the airbag light seem completely unrelated to me unless someone wired something very wrong during the install.
 

Csnighiapl

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18 car shouldn't have any problem, since trans is not d4 with magnetic sensor. But maybe you have 18 produced, but that's 19 model. If you had rev match, you have 19..
Please send me photo of OEM trans, I can help you. I have solution also for starting car from button, will test that tomorrow, since I got that issue also
 

xr4x4ti

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Dude please update when you can. I have a 2018 car and having MASSIVE issues getting this trans swap to work. About like that "supertorque" guy with his 19 Bullitt. About to pull this thing out, reinstall a MT82 and sell the car.

To anyone finding this, I have a Modern Driveline T56 MAGNUM XL swap conversion kit, tried to buy once cry once and get all the good upgrades I could. $8k into a swap I have a car that can only start by jumping the starter with a separate switch, some drive modes not working, no back up cam/reverse parking assist dings, clutch switch fail, hood switch fail (which causes wipers/squirters to not work!), airbag light, wrench light, BRAKE light all on.. Service advance track, traction control lights up occasionally. Tried replacing battery, sensors, playing with FORSCAN, etc. Ford dealer near me says that they had other issues with newer cars and this swap getting them to start/work as well. I have driven it a few hundred miles with the T56 to try to break it in and it feels massively better than the garbage MT82, but the "premium" functions of the car don't work currently.

Car drove 100% perfect with original MT82 never had a problem with any of the above mentioned stuff. About to call MDL back and tell them they need to figure this out. Pretty pissed. Seems like some people have problems and others don't. Not sure why. Will update with my own thread once I finally resolve or go back to stock.

Have you got a tune that at least corrects the gears ratios in the ECM to match the T56?
 

happysem

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Sorry for the delay, I haven't been checking this.

Waited for a month, dealer took one look at it and "due to the mods" they would need me to commit to 5hrs of diag at $225/hr! Insane... so I'm calling around to everyone again and trying to find a solution.

More info:
Car is turbo swapped, assuming it has aftermarket tune, runs good but currently on very low boost due to leak (will fix later after I get the trans sorted). Probably was tuned for the MT82. I do not have rev matching, I think this was a March of 2018 build. I used the Modern Driveline swap kit with the Bowler all in one harness. All wiring is double checked, checked all fuses and grounds I touched. Confirmed with Bowler that I wired up correctly for 2018, so unless me and my buddy are color blind, its not a wiring issue. The speedo runs correct after messing with settings in the Bowler app, but cruise does not work.

Modern Driveline told me that I "may" need a fix via HPTuners, but I'd be surprised since it doesn't even start without arcing the starter. Bowler said "maybe" as well, and to try a GT500 base tune file. Will create a thread with HPTuners to see if anyone has that issue, and maybe spend the $200 or whatever on credits to load that on the car, but I feel like its a long shot.

Ford said it sounds like a BCM issue, but I don't have any clue how this all could have magically gone wrong when all I did was swap the trans. Tried resetting battery, charging battery, changing battery with my Vette, no changes. No changes with clutch/hood sensor swap either so something is very upset with canbus/BCM/wiring in the car. All these systems talk to each other unfortunately.

So essentially, no update. No way am I giving the car to Ford for nearly $1200 to diagnose.
 

happysem

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18 car shouldn't have any problem, since trans is not d4 with magnetic sensor. But maybe you have 18 produced, but that's 19 model. If you had rev match, you have 19..
Please send me photo of OEM trans, I can help you. I have solution also for starting car from button, will test that tomorrow, since I got that issue also
Here's the trans, should be an 18 MT82-D4.

20231031_161729.jpg
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