Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

[Ruiner46]

I'd bet you have more throw than you need, looks like 3/8"-1/2" of travel. Dual disc clutches tend to require less travel than stock, so with the OE release bearing and OE clutch MC you should have plenty.

I don't recall exactly what the OE throw distance is, but I went with a Tilton HRB because after taking a bunch of measurements I determined the OE unit would make the clutch fingers come REALLY close to touching the outer disc hub. It only takes around 1/4" of throw to disengage my clutch.

Wow, only 1/4"? Which clutch are you using? It seems crazy that Mcleod recommended a 1/2" spacer for J17GT when they only need a 1/4" of travel.

When you say the OE bearing in your measurements, are you referring to the OE S550 or the OE GT500 that is used for this particular swap? I would think that if Mcleod says the GT500 guys can use an OE bearing, then they must have designed the clutch for a little more travel. The GT500 bearing is shorter than the S550 bearing for the MT82.

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[aleccolin]

Wow, only 1/4"? Which clutch are you using? It seems crazy that Mcleod recommended a 1/2" spacer for J17GT when they only need a 1/4" of travel.

When you say the OE bearing in your measurements, are you referring to the OE S550 or the OE GT500 that is used for this particular swap? I would think that if Mcleod says the GT500 guys can use an OE bearing, then they must have designed the clutch for a little more travel. The GT500 bearing is shorter than the S550 bearing for the MT82.

The OE style throwout shown is a constant contact, spring assisted style, so you need it to be in contact with the fingers and most of the way compressed as-installed to ensure it can extend through its full range of motion (limited by the volume of the MC) without over-extending and pushing the piston out. The spacer used with an OE style release bearing is to make sure it's most of the way (but not all the way) compressed in the installed position. When you set it up you need to compress the throwout by hand, measure its height, then take measurements of the installed clutch/bellhousing and trans to ensure the whole stackup with the spacer is right. The amount of travel needed to disengage varies with each particular clutch. Smaller diameter clutches usually require less travel and dual-disc clutches tend to be smaller diameter than OE, but not always. I believe the GT500 HRB is shorter to accommodate the factory dual-disc clutch in the GT500, but it has the same piston diameter, so assuming the same MC the throw would be the same.

An aftermarket style (Tilton, etc) that's designed to be set initially with a specific air gap between the bearing face and the clutch fingers, with the HRB fully compressed) is not spring assisted and in my case has less travel due to the bore of the HRB being larger than OE, while using the OE clutch master cylinder. I checked the amount of throw required to actuate the Tilton ST-246 clutch I'm using by setting it up on a manual press with an indicator and it wasn't much, about 1/8" for the discs to be movable by hand, a little more for it to be fully disengaged. If I had used the OE S550 single disc release bearing it would extend more and risk damaging that particular clutch. It might not have, but it would have been too close for my comfort.

Because it doesn't take much throw to disengage my clutch, I'm looking at installing a Ram hydraulic clutch pedal height adjuster which takes up some of the clutch fluid volume into moving a spring loaded piston, then the rest of the clutch MC piston movement goes into throwing the HRB, effectively lowering the pedal engagement.

 

[J17GT]

Revisiting this question about shimming the slave. I used a endoscope/borescope and took this video of my slave. Any idea how this looks compared to yours with the shim? I'm curious if I have enough travel.

Sorry, just seeing this now! It looks like you have a good amount of travel with the slave. Seems fine to me. As mentioned, it really doesn’t take much movement. As long as you’re not over-extending the slave (doesn’t look like you are), you’re good.

I FINALLY got my car back together last night (work and life kept getting in the way) with the .450” shim that McLoed made for me. McLeod said my ‘A’ minus ‘B’ measurement should be in the range of .100-.250”. I was right at .168” with the shim and the clutch engagement feels perfect now. Engagement is right on halfway up on the pedal. Significant improvement and I’m confident I’m no longer over-extending the slave. Time to go beat on this thing like it owes me money!

 

[09jsw]

I did connectors instead of solder. If it ever needs to be taken apart I don’t have to cut wires

 

[Red_Liner740]

Came here looking for some wiring info for the output shaft speed sensor after doing a TR6060 swap on my friends S550.
We pieced it together the hard way.
Couple of things ive noticed being debated across last 37 pages
1. S550 uses ABS tone rings for the speedo. We had the sensor disconnected and the speedo worked just fine. just an FYI
2. GT500 and MT82 slaves have totally different throw range. This is why the 1/2" spacer someone showed. We ordered a GT500 slave thinking it was needed but the stock mt-82 slave worked better with measurements. Had we wanted to keep the GT500 slave we'd have had to add that massive spacer.
3. We reused his RST Mcleod clutch with less than 3k miles on it and just installed new 26 spline clutch plates.
They totally threw off the shimming from Mcleoud. I had to add 68 thou spacers on the pressure plate side to get the fingers to sit in proper position. Verified proper disconnect using McLeod method and .440 thou movement on fingers.
This was actually a major piss off. Mcleoud used to sell just the clutch plates but discontinued and refused to tell me how to shim it properly and kept telling me to send it in for them to do it. We're in Canada and shipping in and out of here costs an arm and a leg. I managed to extract the info from them during lasts PRI show.
With the MGW shifter, and me rebuilding the TR6060 with billet keys, CF synchros it shifts like a high end bolt action. Makes my stock shifter mt82 feel like roving a fucking Yugo gearbox.
4. Reverser lockout. So the factory system is setup like this. Theres a solenoid that extends a pin behind the actual lockout pin. There a small spring that pushes that lockout pin towards the transmission and allows the solenoid pin to go behind it. BUT, the lockout pin itself is spring loaded.
I guess in case the solenoid fails it just allows you to muscle the shifter into reverse. So you can just leave it all alone if you are ready to push it into reverse.
My friend decided to do that instead of dealing with wiring it into reverse lights etc etc.

 

[Angrey]

Came here looking for some wiring info for the output shaft speed sensor after doing a TR6060 swap on my friends S550.
We pieced it together the hard way.
Couple of things ive noticed being debated across last 37 pages
1. S550 uses ABS tone rings for the speedo. We had the sensor disconnected and the speedo worked just fine. just an FYI
2. GT500 and MT82 slaves have totally different throw range. This is why the 1/2" spacer someone showed. We ordered a GT500 slave thinking it was needed but the stock mt-82 slave worked better with measurements. Had we wanted to keep the GT500 slave we'd have had to add that massive spacer.
3. We reused his RST Mcleod clutch with less than 3k miles on it and just installed new 26 spline clutch plates.
They totally threw off the shimming from Mcleoud. I had to add 68 thou spacers on the pressure plate side to get the fingers to sit in proper position. Verified proper disconnect using McLeod method and .440 thou movement on fingers.
This was actually a major piss off. Mcleoud used to sell just the clutch plates but discontinued and refused to tell me how to shim it properly and kept telling me to send it in for them to do it. We're in Canada and shipping in and out of here costs an arm and a leg. I managed to extract the info from them during lasts PRI show.
With the MGW shifter, and me rebuilding the TR6060 with billet keys, CF synchros it shifts like a high end bolt action. Makes my stock shifter mt82 feel like roving a fucking Yugo gearbox.
4. Reverser lockout. So the factory system is setup like this. Theres a solenoid that extends a pin behind the actual lockout pin. There a small spring that pushes that lockout pin towards the transmission and allows the solenoid pin to go behind it. BUT, the lockout pin itself is spring loaded.
I guess in case the solenoid fails it just allows you to muscle the shifter into reverse. So you can just leave it all alone if you are ready to push it into reverse.
My friend decided to do that instead of dealing with wiring it into reverse lights etc etc.

I'd be careful not running the VSS. We drove my car during break in without the trans wired up and it did indeed "work" however, it was giving us grief during the dyno tuning. Car didn't want to go into power enrichment and so something was wigging it out with one of the torque tables and not being able to verify trans speed. It'll "work" but once we got the trans wired up (with reverse camera etc) seemed to go away. Is not going into power enrichment a big deal? Yeah, kinda, otherwise the car kept trying to climb rpms using stoich instead of the commanded fuel lambda.

 

[Red_Liner740]

Oh the plan was always to wire up the output shaft speed. Never entered my mind to leave it off like that permanently. That was just for the test drive to make sure the clutch clearances were good before hooking everything else up.

I'd be careful not running the VSS. We drove my car during break in without the trans wired up and it did indeed "work" however, it was giving us grief during the dyno tuning. Car didn't want to go into power enrichment and so something was wigging it out with one of the torque tables and not being able to verify trans speed. It'll "work" but once we got the trans wired up (with reverse camera etc) seemed to go away. Is not going into power enrichment a big deal? Yeah, kinda, otherwise the car kept trying to climb rpms using stoich instead of the commanded fuel lambda.

 

[Angrey]

Oh the plan was always to wire up the output shaft speed. Never entered my mind to leave it off like that permanently. That was just for the test drive to make sure the clutch clearances were good before hooking everything else up.

Agreed, I was largely the same way. Just didn't want anyone to get the impression they could run the trans across all situations while they wait on a harness, etc. The speedometer and odometer will work, but the VSS is required for other engine management stuff, namely some torque tables. I don't know why Ford didn't just infer gear by rpm and speed, but for whatever reason, it needs a sensor on the trans to confirm.

 

[J17GT]

2. GT500 and MT82 slaves have totally different throw range. This is why the 1/2" spacer someone showed. We ordered a GT500 slave thinking it was needed but the stock mt-82 slave worked better with measurements. Had we wanted to keep the GT500 slave we'd have had to add that massive spacer.

If you are using a clutch that was meant for a mt82 (but upgraded to 26 spline), then yes you use the stock longer slave for a mt82. If you are using a GT500 clutch setup, then you use the shorter GT500 slave. The clutch I’m running in my car is a GT500 sprung hub RXT which requires the shorter GT500 slave. But for sone reason, my setup also required the use of a shim to get the measurements in the correct range.

 

[Plimmer]

I used this to convert the tremec 2 wire VSS signal to the 3 wire for the OEM harness. Works perfect after you change the VSS pulses per rev config.
https://sirhclabs.com/product/cortex-ebc-speed-sensor-adapter/

 

[Ruiner46]

I used this to convert the tremec 2 wire VSS signal to the 3 wire for the OEM harness. Works perfect after you change the VSS pulses per rev config.
https://sirhclabs.com/product/cortex-ebc-speed-sensor-adapter/

That adapter is unnecessary. If you are going to change the VSS pulses per rev in the tune, you don't need any adapter. You can just wire the signal and ground to the tremec 2 wire sensor. Then cap the power wire and don't use it.

 

[xr4x4ti]

What driveshafts are people using with their Tremec Conversions? Duel U-joints, CV joint on Diff and U-joint/slip yoke at the transmission?

Any vibration issues?

Thanks in advance,
Tim

 

[aleccolin]

One piece carbon fiber QA1 from Modern Driveline. Zero vibration issues. Spendy, but I'm happy I went that route.

 

[superoo]

Can anyone tell me if you still retain the rev-matching functionality when replacing the MT82 with the Tremec Magnum X on a 2019 Mustang GT?

 

[Wratchet]

Can you give me any details around wiring the back up camera? I have a tr6060 in mine with the bowler and backup camera and cruise control are currently not functional. Reverse lights were out but that is fixed. Got to get under there and see what is going on. Thinking either wiring or vss programming isn't right.

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