Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

[Ruiner46]

Sorry for the delay, I haven't been checking this.

Waited for a month, dealer took one look at it and "due to the mods" they would need me to commit to 5hrs of diag at $225/hr! Insane... so I'm calling around to everyone again and trying to find a solution.

More info:
Car is turbo swapped, assuming it has aftermarket tune, runs good but currently on very low boost due to leak (will fix later after I get the trans sorted). Probably was tuned for the MT82. I do not have rev matching, I think this was a March of 2018 build. I used the Modern Driveline swap kit with the Bowler all in one harness. All wiring is double checked, checked all fuses and grounds I touched. Confirmed with Bowler that I wired up correctly for 2018, so unless me and my buddy are color blind, its not a wiring issue. The speedo runs correct after messing with settings in the Bowler app, but cruise does not work.

Modern Driveline told me that I "may" need a fix via HPTuners, but I'd be surprised since it doesn't even start without arcing the starter. Bowler said "maybe" as well, and to try a GT500 base tune file. Will create a thread with HPTuners to see if anyone has that issue, and maybe spend the $200 or whatever on credits to load that on the car, but I feel like its a long shot.

Ford said it sounds like a BCM issue, but I don't have any clue how this all could have magically gone wrong when all I did was swap the trans. Tried resetting battery, charging battery, changing battery with my Vette, no changes. No changes with clutch/hood sensor swap either so something is very upset with canbus/BCM/wiring in the car. All these systems talk to each other unfortunately.

So essentially, no update. No way am I giving the car to Ford for nearly $1200 to diagnose.

Cruise control not working is a dead giveaway that the transmission gear ratios are not set correctly in the tune. The Bowler harness can correct the OSS gear ratio, but it can't change the allowed range of gear ratios in the tune that tell the ECU which gear you are in. For some reason, cruise control needs this information. If it detects a gear ratio out of range of its limits, it won't allow cruise to work. Also, the speedometer is not affected by anything in the Bowler harness, so you can't rely on that as a check that everything is working or wired correctly.

The only thing the Bowler harness is really good for is controlling the reverse lockout solenoid. Everything else can and should be corrected in the tune. If you ever want cruise to work, you will need tune changes period. The ECU needs the correct OSS ratio for torque calculation checks and probably other complicated things, but the speedo is from a wheel sensor. The only way to check the Bowler harness and gear ratios in the tune is by datalogging the output of the OSS and engine RPM and doing some math with transmission gear ratios to make sure the numbers work out.

If you have clutch switch problems, then that could cause the starter button not to work. Those other issues will not be fixed by a tune and need some electrical diagnosis to figure out. Is it possible a wiring harness got damaged? No backup cam/reverse lights sounds like the wiring to the reverse switch or Bowler harness. Many of the things you have trouble with all come from the same bundle of wires that runs to the trans and starter motor. You could pretty easily bypass the Bowler harness for the reverse switch connection and at least figure out if that makes your reverse cam work.

Modern Driveline and Bowler are great, but they don't know these cars and the complexity of the tunes they use. Switching to a GT500 base tune is a terrible suggestion so don't pay attention to that. Somewhere in this thread, I think I mentioned all of the tune changes I made to get my setup working perfectly. It really is pretty simple stuff compared to all the changes needed to add forced induction.

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[Csnighiapl]

Here's the trans, should be an 18 MT82-D4.

No magnet sensor here, it's 2018

 

[matjam]

Finally is the VSS Pulses per rev, located in the Speedo tab. Change from 34 to 12.

Thanks for spending the time over the years to keep posting in this thread Ruiner, you're a shining light for so many of us, lol.

I tried setting the ratio values you provided, I have a 2018 GT PP1 that I put the T56 in and plugged in the values you provided, but my cruise is still borked. So I suspect I'll actually need to do it properly, lol.

I also don't see a setting for changing the VSS Pulses per rev that is in your screenshot.

My bowler harness is set to 12 pulses per rev and everything else seems to work with it, but just can't get the cruise to work. I did have to disable the hang too.

The transmission I ordered had the following ratios: 2.97 2.10 1.46 1.00 .80 .62 which are a little different to those you used in your suggested changes. Should I use these values instead, and calculate a min/max from those? I still have the original calibration saved in HD Tuners.

Would appreciate any insight you could share.

 

[Ruiner46]

Thanks for spending the time over the years to keep posting in this thread Ruiner, you're a shining light for so many of us, lol.

I tried setting the ratio values you provided, I have a 2018 GT PP1 that I put the T56 in and plugged in the values you provided, but my cruise is still borked. So I suspect I'll actually need to do it properly, lol.

I also don't see a setting for changing the VSS Pulses per rev that is in your screenshot.

My bowler harness is set to 12 pulses per rev and everything else seems to work with it, but just can't get the cruise to work. I did have to disable the hang too.

The transmission I ordered had the following ratios: 2.97 2.10 1.46 1.00 .80 .62 which are a little different to those you used in your suggested changes. Should I use these values instead, and calculate a min/max from those? I still have the original calibration saved in HD Tuners.

Would appreciate any insight you could share.

Use the transmission ratios I posted in this picture for the 2.97 ratio transmission. The other numbers were for a 2.66 ratio transmission.

Set the min/max ranges with the highlighted cells, and put the nominal gear ratios from the white cells into the Trans Gear Ratios vs Gear ECM40000 table.

The setting for VSS pulses per rev is in the Speedometer tab... it's not under transmission. The bowler harness complicates things. You shouldn't change the pulses per rev in the tune if the Bowler harness is working properly. It should already be providing a conversion from 12 to 34. If you don't use the harness, then you have to change the pulses per rev in the tune.

 

[matjam]

Yup, did that. I think the thing I missed was I did not have HP Tuners in "Advanced mode". So the VSS P/Rev - Trans setting was not visible.

This is what it is now.

So, the bowler should be set to 12 and this should be set to 12 also?

The other thing that in my digging, apparently I might need to perform a crank relearn. Unrelated to cruise.

Will give it a go in the morning.

Thanks!

 

[Ruiner46]

So, the bowler should be set to 12 and this should be set to 12 also?

The other thing that in my digging, apparently I might need to perform a crank relearn. Unrelated to cruise.

Will give it a go in the morning.

Thanks!

Does that say 31S? I'm confused as to why there is a letter in that field. Mine says 34 for a stock tune and I changed it to 12. I don't really know how the Bowler configuration works as I've never used one. If the Bowler is getting 12 on its input and outputting 34 to the PCM, then you set it to 34. If the bowler harness is just passing through the 12 it gets from the transmission, then you set it to 12. I think it depends on how you setup the Bowler harness... whether it is doing a conversion or not.

Don't forget the Trans Gear Ratios vs Gear table.

You can data log the VSS and RPM to see what you are getting. You just need to know what gear you are in when looking at the log. For instance, in 3rd gear you should have RPM/VSS = 1.43. If that number is way off, then you know the pulses/rev or the bowler conversion is messed up.

 

[matjam]

Does that say 31S? I'm confused as to why there is a letter in that field. Mine says 34 for a stock tune and I changed it to 12. I don't really know how the Bowler configuration works as I've never used one. If the Bowler is getting 12 on its input and outputting 34 to the PCM, then you set it to 34. If the bowler harness is just passing through the 12 it gets from the transmission, then you set it to 12. I think it depends on how you setup the Bowler harness... whether it is doing a conversion or not.

Yeah, it does say 31S, so thats weird. I will correct it to 12.

Well at least its easy to change in the Bowler. You connect via bluetooth to it and can change it on the fly. So I'll set it in the transmission settings to 12 and 12 in the bowler and see how that goes.

Don't forget the Trans Gear Ratios vs Gear table.

Yup, did that too.

You can data log the VSS and RPM to see what you are getting. You just need to know what gear you are in when looking at the log. For instance, in 3rd gear you should have RPM/VSS = 1.43. If that number is way off, then you know the pulses/rev or the bowler conversion is messed up.

Awesome, thanks for that - I will give that a go if my modifications don't work.

 

[matjam]

I think I entered an S when I took the screenshot.

Can you tell me the name of the sensor I should be looking at? "VSS" is not found but there's about a hundred different "speed" sensors, some are obviously not the right one but the ones related to transmission don't have any data.

I am able to set up VCM Scanner to log/display the data so just need to figure out the right sensor.

I have a bad feeling something is hooked up wrong though. Or maybe its configuration.

 

[Ruiner46]

I think I entered an S when I took the screenshot.

Can you tell me the name of the sensor I should be looking at? "VSS" is not found but there's about a hundred different "speed" sensors, some are obviously not the right one but the ones related to transmission don't have any data.

I am able to set up VCM Scanner to log/display the data so just need to figure out the right sensor.

I have a bad feeling something is hooked up wrong though. Or maybe its configuration.

 

[Need4SpeedMotors]

I'm still on the fence on doing this T56 or Stage 3 D4 Calimer on my 2016 GT. With clutches they are pretty much the same price from what I've seen online. I've driven a stage 3 calimer, maybe I need to drive a T56 car to see what it feels like.

 

[Csnighiapl]

I finally finished tremec in Bullitt 2019 with D4 mt82 with magnetic sensor.

To make it, I need your tune read with hptuners, you will get new file from me, so you need extra 8 credits to licence. You will get wiring diagram for trans sensor to pcm existing cables modification and also one cable needs to be added to PCM and routed to BCM. I need also GWM module for programming if you have active exhaust. My email is info at HD-Customs.pl.
Everything works as factory, reverse, camera, parking aid.

If you don't care reverse camera or parking aid, I can permanently disable limp mode due lack of sensor. I'm working in meantime on canbus solution on top of disable limp mode and still having it working. With limp mode disabled you can easy wire reverse light to make it work.

Cheers

 

[happysem]

I gave up working on my car. Took it to Tricky Performance in OKC. They went through the whole wiring setup on the car and eventually got everything to work as factory should. I didn't talk to them for long but I suspect the wiring diag given to me from Modern Driveline was wrong or for a different year car (as many of the instructions were clearly for a previous gen).

Unfortunately, all the problems came right back - no start, 1 headlight out, hood open, wipers broke, ebrake light on, airbag, wrench light, etc. So its back at Tricky now waiting.

You absolutely need a tune to change ratios, disable rev hang, and probably other stuff. The trans/clutch combo drives massively better than the MT82 garbage, but the computer does all sorts of goofy shit with the throttle and makes it harder to be smooth. Wish I had a cable throttle body.

Will update if it ever gets finished. It'll likely be posted for sale as I'm over this car lol. If you want a Turbo/T56 18 premium with all the goodies send me some money or trade me your unmolested creampuff 10spd.

 

[illtal]

I gave up working on my car. Took it to Tricky Performance in OKC. They went through the whole wiring setup on the car and eventually got everything to work as factory should. I didn't talk to them for long but I suspect the wiring diag given to me from Modern Driveline was wrong or for a different year car (as many of the instructions were clearly for a previous gen).

Unfortunately, all the problems came right back - no start, 1 headlight out, hood open, wipers broke, ebrake light on, airbag, wrench light, etc. So its back at Tricky now waiting.

You absolutely need a tune to change ratios, disable rev hang, and probably other stuff. The trans/clutch combo drives massively better than the MT82 garbage, but the computer does all sorts of goofy shit with the throttle and makes it harder to be smooth. Wish I had a cable throttle body.

Will update if it ever gets finished. It'll likely be posted for sale as I'm over this car lol. If you want a Turbo/T56 18 premium with all the goodies send me some money or trade me your unmolested creampuff 10spd.

Tons of 18's have been done with no problems, Heard a Few things about Tricky, hope you get it straighten out. I know a guy that's doing my swap: I'd bet he'll have your car going in less than a couple of days.

 

[LunarS550]

Wiring my bowler harness now, where did you guys run your red power wire?

My buddy, who is a ford tech, and I don’t really understand why we can’t just use the ECM from the old connector other than the instructions clearly saying not to.

 

[Angrey]

Wiring my bowler harness now, where did you guys run your red power wire?

My buddy, who is a ford tech, and I don’t really understand why we can’t just use the ECM from the old connector other than the instructions clearly saying not to.

I'm sure they have good reason/experience in that it probably doesn't work as intended. Ford does lots of overly complicated stuff in their power control strategies so it might work fine in some situations but not function in others. I wired in dedicated accessory on power source.

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