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iDrive USA Throttle Controller Install

MyLilPony

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While I make just about 900whp Lund has done great work on WOT as well as daily driving, I have been looking at throttle controllers to help boost pedal feel. I found @iDrive_USA on Instagram and picked up one for my Mustang and my new JL Jeep.

This morning I took about 5 minutes to get it installed and it did exactly what I wanted it to! Took that mushy feel out of my throttle pedal completely!

www.idrive-usa.com

Here is how to install:
1.jpg


Tools Needed:
- Provided zip ties
- Snips to clip the zip ties
- Plastic Panel removal tool
2.jpg



Step 1:

Unplug the gas pedal plug and plug in the adapter and cable provided by iDrive. One the gas plug is inserted into the provided cable plug the connector into the factory location.



3.jpg
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Step 2:

I decided to locate the control on the right side of the steering wheel. I used the body panel removal tool to pull the little panel with the air sensor down and run the wires through there. That is also the location I ran my wires for my boost controller and ngauge through.

5.jpg


Step 3:

I bundled up the wires and zip tied the wire under the dash in one location and zip tied and tucked the extra wire into the gap behind the panel. The provided double sided tape hold the controller in place perfectly. I can also make adjustments on the fly!! That it, you are done!

E = Economy (think adjustable snow mode)
U = More sensitivity, 9 is almost instant!

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Chipks

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Do you still have this on your car and if so, is it still working well for you? Still recommend it?

I had a Roush P2 blower installed and my pedal lags bad. I'm looking at this one as well as others.
 
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MyLilPony

MyLilPony

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I sold my car in November of 19 but I know it is still on there. I also have one on my Wrangler JL and i love it especially getting the 37's to move. It feels more alive even though there is no HP gain.
 

CrashOverride

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Just a heads up that your tuner can do the exact same thing as this in your tune. There are several maps of throttle request vs commanded tables, which is really the better way to do it. These just ramp up the throttle request, quite literally taking resolution out of the pedal. If you have a lot of power, you actually may want to switch to a linear 1:1 request to commanded ratio simply to avoid traction issues at lower throttle angles. I find most cars are not heavily biased with far too much tip-in and are basically WOT at half pedal travel. It certainly makes the economy rental cars "feel" fast when I rent them, but the fun fades out at 1/3 pedal travel when there is nothing left.
 

Elp_jc

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On a related note, does anybody have a graph of the factory throttle map curve with each setting? I'd like very much to see those curves. Thank you.
 

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CrashOverride

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Here you go. Note the headings change, e.g. stock is 10...20...30 and performance is not that way. I also fit in the first 3 tables of driver demand per gear. Not quite as easy as the others, and I wouldn't mess with it, but it's there for you anyway.

This is from a stock 2015 GT I found

 

Elp_jc

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The lower graphs were cut off, and my car has sport AND track (plus drag), but normal mode seems to be perfectly linear, which I prefer. I assume the sport/track mode on 2015s is the sport mode on my car, meaning WOT is reached at 85% pedal travel. Track is probably more aggressive than that, and drag even more. Hopefully somebody has those graphs for 2018+ cars, but thank you for posting that :). It helps.
 

CrashOverride

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Here is a 2018 Automatic I found. There are probably a dozen throttle maps (Including "Mud" and "Reverse") but they are not necessarily used. Likewise the tables don't go higher than 6500, even though the engine can. Might be a limitation of HP Tuners or might just be the stock tables apply 6500 settings to anything beyond it. Yep, normal is 1:1, and I am the same way. If you compress the curve, you actually get less resolution if you think about it.

Driver Demand 2018.PNG
 

gixxersixxerman

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I need to send Lund a email, main reason I run Track mode is the throttle response or feel. I don’t really care for the track magride setting on my local streets but the throttle response is perfect for me. I did run a Apexi throttle controller on my old car and really loved it. Most know it does Jack shit for power, but changing the throttle response exactly how you like it makes the vehicle so much more fun to drive.
 

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fatbillybob

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Crash,

On post 8 above this is what HPT sees on a stock 2018 correct? I just starting to learn HPT like a grandpa trying to use a smart phone so I really suck. What values get manipulated for crisper throttle response? What does a manipulated table look like? I know I can change the table values globally and individually but right now I'm just dangerous to myself and others. My car is an A10 road race racecar only used in sport mode.
 

CrashOverride

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This is the tables I pulled from a 2018 off of the tune repository, so I can't guarantee it's stock, but I don't think many people that post up are reckless like that. I am in the same boat actually, I have only experimented with a few different things myself, but I like to see how things work. There is a lot to "crisper", so you have the actual throttle delay, which in my experience is usually related to driveline protection or torque management. If you turn that down/off, it can "speed up" the response time. It did for sure in my Dodge RAM. But, that just affects the "lag" that people describe with e-throttles. Personally, with my less-complex-ecu 2015, I think ford nailed the throttle lag issue.

But the "feel" of the pedal...The throttle delivered by the butterfly in the intake (Commanded TQ) as it related to the amount you're pushing the pedal (Driver demand) is primarily affected by 5 tables in the upper right. I wouldn't mess with the other more complex tables until you had a handle on how it works. I know very little about the tables with the exception, that indirectly the lower cells can be used to pseudo-affect the idle RPM. The engine management on these cars is light years ahead of the ones I've played with in the past. Tuners that actually care about drivability really do earn their money because of how many values are involved. Other tuners, just throw drivability out the window and turn off the intake manifold runner control, disable most of the drive modes and just tune for optimum power.

I am not a big fan of the book, And especially it is not going to be directly helpful for the DI 18+ engines, but if you want to see how the engine management works for earlier iterations of the coyote, Dan Lasoto has the "Coyote Cookbook" for a not terrible amount of money. Like I said, I don't think it is very good, but it is one of the few books specifically created for our engine.

I would suggest doing some very simple experiments. Simply backup your stock tune (Several times, in several locations) and then copy the tables from one mode to normal. Don't forget that not only do the values change, but the headings change as well (e.g. some maps are 10..20...30 and others are 3.9...8.9 and so forth). This is the equivalent of having your car always start out in a particular drive mode. Then once you tackle that, you can play with the other numbers.

For those that still want a stand-alone pedal enhancer, yesterday Gale Banks put out a great video on their version. Now I'm not for these devices, but if you want to hear about how they work, from an old guy that isn't going to BS you (And flat out calls out the competitors in the video) then I suggest checking it out. BTW, not sure if you knew but his shop is in Azusa :)

 

fatbillybob

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Thanks for the tips. Will look for the book to get more perspective.

I also have a 2500 ram diesel to tow the s550. Ram has serious lag. I'll step. On the gas tonight and maybe get off my driveway in the morning...
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