Spring Install

[BCeagle08]

Just got done installing the front springs on my car. Ran out of sunlight so I'm finishing the rear tomorrow. I had previously done spring installs on my 2000 mustang and my 2008 mustang, so I was pretty familiar with changing a McPherson Strut spring, but the springs on the 2015 were a little more difficult than my past mustangs.

1) The bolts that connect the strut to the spindle. Fuck. Those. Bolts. I busted out a full size sledge hammer after trying a rubber mallet, then a wooden mallet, then a metal framing hammer, then a mini sledge. It took 20-30 good whacks to get them out. Make sure you put the nut on the end of the bolt so you don't mushroom the bolt and make sure you hit dead on the nut so you don't deform the nut.

2) Spring compressor. You need to compress the stock springs a SHIT TON to get the caster plate off. Not a problem, but be aware of it. I only had the spring compressors you get from auto zone and advance auto parts - the type that are two completely independent bolts.

For whatever reason, the splash guard at the bottom of the strut is bigger than the ones I've seen on other mustangs. It gets in the way of the bolt as you tighten the the spring compressor and the bolt passes through the claw. You have to be very creative with the spring compressor location and you might need to put one "upside down" (i.e. the tightening nut side right up against the splash guard) and use an open end wrench to tighten it since an air gun won't be able to fit in there.

I was installing BMR springs and with one less coil than the stock springs it took a lot of trial and error to find a spring compressor location that didn't interfere with the strut. Be patient and don't get frustrated!

3) The retaining nut at the top of the strut is a pain in the ass. It has a nut inside the retaining nut that you are supposed to use to stop the shaft from spinning, but the retaining nut is buried so deep inside the caster and camber plate that you can't get a box wrench in there. Does anyone know how you are supposed to loosen and tighten the retaining nut without using a socket? If you use a socket, you can't hold the shaft using the inner nut so the shaft just spins and spins and spins. I had to use strap wrench to hold the shaft while I used a socket on the retaining nut.

That's my take on the front spring job. Anyone have any input as to how to make those trouble spots easier?

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[dubster99]

I had success with the splined bolts by putting a jack under the spindle, and making sure the holes on each side were even.

 

[bew]

I'm actually doing my spring install now too. On the fronts now, both strut assemblies out of the car and I'm to the point now where I'm trying to use those weak ass AutoZone spring compressors to get the job done. I'm having the same problem with finding the proper orientation without hitting the splash guards. Out of patience, I'm saving this for tomorrow..

I've already finished the rear - they weren't as bad.. I did have an issue lowering each side w/o the sway bar hitting my exhaust (Corsa X-Treme), and therefore I couldn't push the arm down enough to pull the spring out. I ended up unbolting the exhaust and lowering it down to give me a few more inches. I didn't have to touch the sway bar.

Good luck with the rest of your install! If I come up with anything creative when reassembling the strut I'll report back here...

 

[2Cool]

I had success with the splined bolts by beating on them like they were my psycho-ex-from-hell until they finally gave in and left me alone like she never ever did...

Well, it worked for me, heh.

 

[MyLilPony]

I did my springs and only used the spring compressor to remove the stock springs. It was worthless trying to put the new ones on. Soooooo used and old trick I had used in the pastI however do not recommend this method, but it works....

Put top hat in the car and secure it loosely with one nut. Place the new spring on the shock and bolt the loose spring and shock back on the car. Align the spring and place a jack under the front spindle. Make sure the spring in aligned correctly as you compress it using the jack. You will need to lean on the shock a little as you align the shaft so you can get the nut on it.

After getting pissed off at the rented spring compressor this is the route I went for both fronts. Worked like a charm. I really wish someone would put out sub $1200 coilovers. I hate using basic springs.

 

[908ssp]

If you take a spare 21mm socket and drill out the drive end with a 9/16" drill you can hold the socket with pliers or better yet weld a handle to it and use a 1/4" drive socket to reach the hex on the top of the the strut shaft to loosen and tighten the top hex nut.

 

[Choking_Victim]

"A" frame/clamshell spring compressor make life easier...

http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

 

[gtmiller1001]

I did my springs and only used the spring compressor to remove the stock springs. It was worthless trying to put the new ones on. Soooooo used and old trick I had used in the pastI however do not recommend this method, but it works....

Put top hat in the car and secure it loosely with one nut. Place the new spring on the shock and bolt the loose spring and shock back on the car. Align the spring and place a jack under the front spindle. Make sure the spring in aligned correctly as you compress it using the jack. You will need to lean on the shock a little as you align the shaft so you can get the nut on it.

After getting pissed off at the rented spring compressor this is the route I went for both fronts. Worked like a charm. I really wish someone would put out sub $1200 coilovers. I hate using basic springs.

I've been using this method for the last handful of spring swaps, both to remove the OEM spring and install the new one. If you are competent, pay attention to what you are doing and take your time I feel it is actually safer than using the Autozone compressors. Obviously the clamshell compressor or a wall compressor are the best methods.

As far as the top nut, with a jack under the spindle compressing the spring it should break loose with an air gun or just quick turns on a socket wrench. Since it's a lock nut I just take a pair of needle nose vice grips and grab hold of the nut and use a small socket to actually turn the shaft of the strut clockwise, which loosens the nut. Since you've already broken the nut loose it doesn't take much, you're essentially just having to work against the last part of the threads since it's a lock nut and won't spin freely. You can re-install the same way...just get it snug with the vice grips/socket on the strut shaft and then using a torque ratchet wrench usually the nut will turn independently of the strut...because it's already fairly snug.

 

[fordguys550]

wow this is all very interesting. I did springs on my 05gt, I don't remember that being so bad. I may have to try the method with the jack. sounds a whole lot easier

 

[gtmiller1001]

wow this is all very interesting. I did springs on my 05gt, I don't remember that being so bad. I may have to try the method with the jack. sounds a whole lot easier

Helping a local guy with his this weekend, definitely using this method again! I should add that once I've gotten the strut assembled in position and the top nut threaded onto the strut shaft a safe amount I removed the strut assembly and just verify that the top spring isolater and upper strut bearing plate are seated against one another correctly....having it out of the car makes it easier to get a good look at that portion. Kind of the measure twice cut once idea.

 

[fordguys550]

ahh! great idea! thanks again for the tips. I hate spring compressors. this sounds pretty easy given you are carful with what your doing.

 

[Tribefan]

Question: What should the nut on the top of the strut get torqued to? I can't seem to find the spec for this.

 

[Niz55]

Just got done installing the front springs on my car. Ran out of sunlight so I'm finishing the rear tomorrow. I had previously done spring installs on my 2000 mustang and my 2008 mustang, so I was pretty familiar with changing a McPherson Strut spring, but the springs on the 2015 were a little more difficult than my past mustangs.

1) The bolts that connect the strut to the spindle. Fuck. Those. Bolts. I busted out a full size sledge hammer after trying a rubber mallet, then a wooden mallet, then a metal framing hammer, then a mini sledge. It took 20-30 good whacks to get them out. Make sure you put the nut on the end of the bolt so you don't mushroom the bolt and make sure you hit dead on the nut so you don't deform the nut.

2) Spring compressor. You need to compress the stock springs a SHIT TON to get the caster plate off. Not a problem, but be aware of it. I only had the spring compressors you get from auto zone and advance auto parts - the type that are two completely independent bolts.

For whatever reason, the splash guard at the bottom of the strut is bigger than the ones I've seen on other mustangs. It gets in the way of the bolt as you tighten the the spring compressor and the bolt passes through the claw. You have to be very creative with the spring compressor location and you might need to put one "upside down" (i.e. the tightening nut side right up against the splash guard) and use an open end wrench to tighten it since an air gun won't be able to fit in there.

I was installing BMR springs and with one less coil than the stock springs it took a lot of trial and error to find a spring compressor location that didn't interfere with the strut. Be patient and don't get frustrated!

3) The retaining nut at the top of the strut is a pain in the ass. It has a nut inside the retaining nut that you are supposed to use to stop the shaft from spinning, but the retaining nut is buried so deep inside the caster and camber plate that you can't get a box wrench in there. Does anyone know how you are supposed to loosen and tighten the retaining nut without using a socket? If you use a socket, you can't hold the shaft using the inner nut so the shaft just spins and spins and spins. I had to use strap wrench to hold the shaft while I used a socket on the retaining nut.

That's my take on the front spring job. Anyone have any input as to how to make those trouble spots easier?

Make sure the steering wheel is turned so the bolt are facing towards you. Only takes about 2-3 hits with 3lbs sledge hamme to get mine out.

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