idle problems

[ElAviator72]

I NEVER top off. As soon as it clicks I don't attempt to fill it up anymore, in any of my cars ever lol. Sometimes I even stop before it clicks.

Unfortunately, since you bought the car used (or with a ton of test driving mileage), you have no idea how everyone before you treated it. There's a possibility that the activated carbon (charcoal) in your cannister has been flooded by someone who was an idiot and topped off the tank when they shouldn't have...

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[3oostdmstng]

That's the right answer.



Which proves that anything can be taken too far.

EDIT: All joking aside, you might find something of interest in this article:

https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92420/the-dreaded-engine-surge

lol! thanks very much for the link! I will most definitely take a look at it.

I picked up my car from the dealer just a few minutes ago.

This is what they have done: "Performed electr engine diag, self test PCM P1450 (what code is that?). Pintest DTC and perform PID data monitor and record PID values for fuel evap system. Test CANP, CANV, and FTP sensors. Inspect and replace canister purge valve due to stuck open purge valve. Retest to verify repair".

So, they changed that part, FOC to me due to extended warranty.

Upon driving back from the dealer, a 30 min drive, the rpm dropped 2-3 times while going 40-45mph...

I don't know if this fixed anything. Will be fueling up soon and take a look.

If not, I will have to order the sensor and see if that helps.

 

[3oostdmstng]

Unfortunately, since you bought the car used (or with a ton of test driving mileage), you have no idea how everyone before you treated it. There's a possibility that the activated carbon (charcoal) in your cannister has been flooded by someone who was an idiot and topped off the tank when they shouldn't have...

Yes, that is always what pops in my head lol what idiot drove my car before me.

I picked up my car from the dealer and this is on the receipt/record:

"Performed electr engine diag, self test PCM P1450 (what code is that?). Pintest DTC and perform PID data monitor and record PID values for fuel evap system. Test CANP, CANV, and FTP sensors. Inspect and replace canister purge valve due to stuck open purge valve. Retest to verify repair".

Upon driving back from the dealer, a 30 min drive, the rpm dropped 2-3 times while going 40-45mph...

I don't know if this fixed anything. Will be fueling up soon and take a look.

If not, I will have to order the sensor and see if that helps.

 

[ElAviator72]

If not, I will have to order the sensor and see if that helps.

I'd also try an injector cleaning with tank additive...something you have to do every once in a while anyways. Cheap inusrance

 

[Turbong]

I'd also try an injector cleaning with tank additive...something you have to do every once in a while anyways. Cheap inusrance

Doesn't the manual state not to use additives in the fuel tank? Which one do you use?

 

[ronemca]

I'm no expert, but I feel compelled to share an opinion:

Since you have extended warranty, and -- significantly-- a dealer just performed a no-cost repair to fix a customer complaint...why not go back to them and offer that the issue remains? before buying/changing any parts yourself. You never know - they might discover that the such-and-such component is faulty and replace it at no cost to you.

 

[3oostdmstng]

I'd also try an injector cleaning with tank additive...something you have to do every once in a while anyways. Cheap inusrance

I was gonna ask the same thing as turbong. I think there is even a thread here about it not sure the title...
I WISH we could just do that for easy cleaning and solving this type of issues...but I think we are not supposed to? something about the way they are made the cleaning would not go directly into?

 

[3oostdmstng]

I'm no expert, but I feel compelled to share an opinion:

Since you have extended warranty, and -- significantly-- a dealer just performed a no-cost repair to fix a customer complaint...why not go back to them and offer that the issue remains? before buying/changing any parts yourself. You never know - they might discover that the such-and-such component is faulty and replace it at no cost to you.

When I took it in on Monday, I told the service advisor of the department that I had done some research and brought up the sensor and purge valve ONLY as some things people with this issue have been talking about as a possible solution..

I will most definitely be keeping an eye on this during the weekend. If issue persists, which I get a feeling it will, I will have to call them back again. You do bring up a good point, however, the thing with the extended warranty, rep says ITS THE BEST (100k miles), is that the component needs to be part of that list of parts covered.

If issue persists, I will contact them regarding that part and see what they say about changing it.

 

[3oostdmstng]

Different car but relevant to what they just did to my car...I needed to know what that P1450 was.

 

[ElAviator72]

I was gonna ask the same thing as turbong. I think there is even a thread here about it not sure the title...
I WISH we could just do that for easy cleaning and solving this type of issues...but I think we are not supposed to? something about the way they are made the cleaning would not go directly into?

The injectors in our cars need periodic cleaning (just like any Fuel Injected vehicle). Unfortunately, though, we don't get the full benefits of that due to direct injection (e.g. cleaning the intake and intake valves), so you can mentally throw away any cool pictures from the bottle and advertising of dirty valves before, clean valves after

 

[ElAviator72]

Doesn't the manual state not to use additives in the fuel tank? Which one do you use?

Never seen that line in the manual...I use Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus. So far, Ford hasn't voided my warranty...

 

[TorqueMan]

Doesn't the manual state not to use additives in the fuel tank? Which one do you use?

I would imagine Ford would recommend this:

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Premium Fuel Injector Cleaner&category=Brake and Performance Products

Most every mechanic I know would recommend this:

http://www.fuelinjectorcleanerhq.co...n-concentrate-plus-fuel-system-cleaner-20-oz/

 

[3oostdmstng]

I would imagine Ford would recommend this:

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Premium Fuel Injector Cleaner&category=Brake and Performance Products

Most every mechanic I know would recommend this:

http://www.fuelinjectorcleanerhq.co...n-concentrate-plus-fuel-system-cleaner-20-oz/

thanks for the suggestions!

Quick little update: I fueled up and the car did not act like it wanted to stall. Did keep an eye at the gauge Air/fuel ratio and it dipped occasionally (fluctuated between 15-12). Now, is this NORMAL behavior right after fueling? Once you start driving, say 5 mins after fueling, it calms down...

I drove around a few miles and will be fueling up again soon to see if it happens again.

Also, do you think switching to a cap fuel filler would help?

 

[TorqueMan]

Also, do you think switching to a cap fuel filler would help?

I wouldn't make any modifications to any systems until you know for sure what's causing the problem. Everytime you change something without knowing what the problem is you introduce the possibility of making the problem worse, or creating an entirely new problem. Further, since your car is still under warranty you don't want to give Ford any reasons to deny coverage. Pretty much any modification you make to the car can be used as grounds to deny warranty coverage, so be careful.

The fuel cap is a pretty simple device. It's just a poppet valve that seals the filler port. If you push on it you'll feel a spring pushing it closed. If it's sticking open then I would let the dealer know and have a technician replace it, otherwise I'd leave it.

 

[ronemca]

I wouldn't make any modifications...

Sage wisdom from the wise old man on the mountain. (This fresh young man agrees)

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