IAT'S with Whipple

Discussion in 'Forced Induction - 5.0L V8 Engine' started by JCSIX13, Jun 25, 2019.

  1. JCSIX13

    JCSIX13 Well-Known Member

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    Hi

    I have a Whipple on my GT350. Just wondering what others are seeing for IAT's After the blower (IAT2)?

    Thanks

    Jack
     
  2. engineermike

    engineermike Well-Known Member

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    If I’m understanding the whippledata right, I’ve logged 99-100 deg iat2 while getting 77-79 deg iat1. This was during a 5 second wot blast.

    2018 gt, whipple stage 2, 3.875.
     
  3. db252

    db252 Equinsu Ocha

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    I typically run between 80-120 based on temperature outside and driving habit. Traffic, city and freeway driving influence those temps.
     
  4. Ruiner46

    Ruiner46 Well-Known Member

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    IAT1 or IAT2?

    It's been 85-90 ambient here lately and I'm seeing 115 IAT2 cruising around with peaks to 135-140 in traffic sitting still. Anyone run straight water or like a 70/30 water/coolant mix in the intercooler in summer time? Thinking about changing from my 50/50.

    2016 Whipple stage 2 with 3.625 pulley
     
  5. db252

    db252 Equinsu Ocha

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    That would have helped to know........IAT2 is what I was referring to. My IAT1 is usually about 4 degrees over ambient and my air box is fully closed to prevent engine heat from increasing those temps. I run 75/25 water/coolant all year but I live in CA and that’s easier to get away with. I have the larger HE as well and a more opened airflow through my grill as well as larger hood venting.
     
  6. Burkey

    Burkey Well-Known Member

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    2016 car, Gen 2 Whipple, LARGE HE, 3.625” pulley.
    Typically in normal driving I’ll see the IAT2 20*c above ambient (the relationship is pretty linear when you view it in Celsius)
    In US speak (Fahrenheit) that looks like:
    Ambient 59* IAT2 95*
    Ambient 95* IAT2 131*
    Ambient 120* IAT2 145-150*
     
  7. Roh92cp

    Roh92cp Well-Known Member

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    Some really good point made here, and for sure ambient controls the baseline for IAT2. Ambient air temp is the constant cooling force through the HE and air inlet and of course the engine heat and air compression from supercharger is the opposing force. Lowering IAT's is something I've been working on and tracking for years with my whipple setup. I've come up with some pretty interesting and affective methods some easy and some more complex to control/lower IAT1 and IAT2.

    Lowering IAT1 is very important to lower IAT2, that's why a true cold air kits have been so popular. Imagine sucking in 200 degree engine exposed air as opposed to 100 degree air with ambient being the same. The effects on IAT2 are huge because half of the cooling system is drawing in hot air, but the other half of the cooling system the HE/IC water running through the core is still giving the ambient and airspeed over the HE cooling. For this I have come up with the whipple closed Airbox system with front Ram air feed from Velocatech Big Mouth cone in front of the grill. With this setup my IAT1 at the inlet/MAF is now 2 degrees above ambient cruising and 4-5 above slow driving and stopped now takes like 15 minutes to get 20 degrees above ambient. Before IAT1 was 4-5 cruising so not much change there because air moving into the engine bay, but at low speeds and idle it's dramatic. I use to see 80-100 over ambient easy idling after 10 minutes, and low speeds stop and go easily where 20/30 above.

    I've also discovered some things about data for IAT2 which is inaccurate and have backed this up with discussions with Dustin Whipple and Jason Etter Dept of boost. Most Whipple setups don't have a way to read accurately the Whipple IAT2 sensor data in fact it's only used by the PCM and not setup to display on a gauge or read out. Anyone with an Ngauge or OBD2 scanner that find a PID for IAT2 and thinks this is real data is mistaken. The IAT2 PID read this way is inferred data from other sensors and not from the Whipple sensor. The trend on this data is actually very close to accurate at 80-100F but as the temps go above 90 the data lags behind greatly against a dedicated sensor and readout. At 110 its @ 15 degrees off ( showing lower) and the spread continues from there. I have logs of this to prove it as well.

    Breakout harness which is used for most aftermarket calibration LUND and PBD, VMP (and what I use now) use this setup is also not accurate in almost the same way as above inferred data.

    I have ZT-2 dedicated IAT2 sensor (very accurate) that is read out on the Ngauge. I've also tested that for accuracy against a PLX setup to make sure it was good data. I also have water temp sensors on the HE outlet and the IC outlet to track water temps in the IC cooling system (basically a rolling lab) and found some interesting data there. MY system has been upgraded to a 1" system including bungs and inlet out let into the HE and IC with huge EMP Stewart pump so I have a very stable system and IAT2 output. My IAT2 with my setup almost never change much from open throttle to closed and moving slow or fast. I'm always somewhere around 5-25 degrees (WOT or idle) above ambient so 70-95 F IAT2 on a 70 degree day.

    Things that have made a significant reduction in IAT2 have been.

    1. MFP phenolic spacer aprox. 25-30 degree reduction in IAT2. This product blew me away and was the last thing I did to my setup.MFP-Phenolic-Spacers-for-11-Coyote-Mustang-GT-and-F150

    2. My closed airbox front feed snorkel setup. Huge difference in low speed driving stop and go and idling. Not as much when throttle is open WOT.

    3. Bigger HE/IC and flow rate (large pump) lowers IAT2 somewhat, but moreover stabilizes the temps so they just don't move a lot after this. Sheer amount of fluid transfer overpowers the engine and supercharged air heat.

    4. Hood vents and open front grill. IMG_1812.JPG IMG_1818.JPG IMG_1931.JPG IMG_1468.JPG IMG_1761.JPG IMG_2079.JPG IMG_2061.JPG IMG_2934.JPG IMG_2932.JPG
     
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  8. OP
    OP
    JCSIX13

    JCSIX13 Well-Known Member

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    So what is the best bang for the buck of your mods?

    Thanks
    Jack
     
  9. Roh92cp

    Roh92cp Well-Known Member

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    No doubt and hands down the phenolic spacers, not hard to install.

    Will clear the hood with 8mm rise. The only thing is you don’t use the top bolt from supercharger to top of the idler pulley plate.
     
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  10. Roh92cp

    Roh92cp Well-Known Member

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    Also here is an example of how well a closed airbox system works to draw cool air form the front of the Grill. Even at idle it draws air and smoke in this case to show how it works.

     
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  11. F1scamp

    F1scamp Well-Known Member

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    299. for a pair of phenolic spacers. Good god.
     
  12. Roh92cp

    Roh92cp Well-Known Member

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    I agree they are overpriced, but they are really really well made and come with O rings and longer bolts for mounting. And lastly they work!
     
  13. Burkey

    Burkey Well-Known Member

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    You can blame shipping and taxes for that. They don’t retail for anywhere near that here in Australia where they’re made.
     
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  14. moffetts

    moffetts Well-Known Member

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    How many of you guys are running the snorkel that whipple sells? I think it was a huge oversight to ship the kits without it in the first place.
     
  15. Roh92cp

    Roh92cp Well-Known Member

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    I've been running this setup for 2 years and have 3 other friends running the same setup. This however isn't a Whipple add on, It's something I made and put together.
     
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