HPDE and Track Events

[Rodpwnz]

Easy solutions for your ideal cooling list, upgrade to a Mach 1 :
1. A10 trans cooler (mishi kit or setrab custom) = Mach 1 A10 trans cooler
2. Not needed with Mach 1
3. Not needed with Mach 1
4. OIl cooler (Harrop kit or setrab custom) = Mach 1 oil cooler
5. Custom ducting = Mach 1 ducting
6. Not needed with Mach 1
7. Not needed with Mach 1
8. heat wrap exhaust near diff, and maybe upgrade diff oil = Mach 1 diff cooler

I would have wanted an M1 with the tremec but after this PP1 10r80 car, I don't think I'll be going back to ford. If I were spending $50K+, it would probably be a Porsche or another munich based powertrain.

All I really need to make this track going would be A10 thermal bypass mod with an external thermostat set to 160F activation. Then the harrop oil cooler and be done with it. The rest are just bonuses on top. If I could get the drivetrain to not be a clunky, grindy, jerky mess then I wouldn't be so hesitant to throw more money for cooling.

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[EFI]

If I could get the drivetrain to not be a clunky, grindy, jerky mess

Try resetting and/or disabling the adaptive learning of the transmission. Makes a world of difference.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Try resetting and/or disabling the adaptive learning of the transmission. Makes a world of difference.

Thanks for the tip! I'm taking the car to Ford one more time for diagnostic before I flash Wengerd tunes and have him disable adaptive learning.

I truly think it's a mechanical issue somewhere along the drivetrain if it's persistent after a new trans.

 

[EFI]

I truly think it's a mechanical issue somewhere along the drivetrain if it's persistent after a new trans.

I would say it's more likely that it's calibration related than a mechanical issue.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I would say it's more likely that it's calibration related than a mechanical issue.

Just got back from the dealer and had a tech ride along(More like sit along). We ended up sitting in the parking lot while I had the tech put the car in D then R and vice-versa. He said he can feel the clunking in the pedal and that it seems delayed after trans already engages. He believes it's somewhere along the rear driveline after trans, perhaps Half-shafts(Axles), Bearings/assembly, or loose axle nut.

Dealer said that they would charge me to do a formal inspection and diagnostic. I'd rather try it myself and if need be, take it to a performance shop instead.

I'm going to try to jack the car up this weekend and do some tests to rear wheel wiggle, any half shaft play/looseness, and maybe even try to torque down the axle nuts a bit.

 

[TundraOnKings]

I run/was running Castrol Euro 5w-40. My Pic of oil/parts was on page 2.

 

[TundraOnKings]

just got the mishi radiator installed (while installing powerwashed the mildly clogged ac condenser)

after putting everything back on, CHT was 212F on idle (wtf) when the hood was open.
Intake temp was 110F (its inside the bumper).
I took it for a 3-4K rpm test drive and it reached to 224F.

I came back home and spat on the car, and threw myself on the bed and cried and said
> I hate you mustang I hate you!!

30 mins later after eating enough ice cream, I did another test drive, BUUT this time CHT temp looked way better like 208-210F. Maybe because weather was cooled down to 90F.

FWIW, I noticed brand new coolant got dirty because of the coolant inside the engine. I am thinking to do couple flushes and will use 60% water 40% coolant after the flush.

after all that I will try keeping RPM around 4-5K, if it exceeds then I will try boxing the radiator. the air coming out of the radiator is super hot and its slamming the engine

If nothing else works I will use liquid nitrogen.

Lol, yeah, so this why I went 911, don’t dog them if you haven’t tracked them. I really just didn’t want to go down that road with the Mustang. It’s still sitting in my garage - contemplating. As I’ve mentioned many times before, Mach1 would be an easier start. Highly recommend mach1 for track.

Had a great track day a few weekends ago, absolute blast being on track with a full blown GT350 racecar. Sounded phenomenal! Full plexi, cool-suit cause no AC/interior, aluminum interior, carbon fiber doors/everywhere - hand built 5.2 pushing 550HP…weighed right about what my 911S weighs. He took down a 991.1 GT3RS, so I had to try and get him. Eventually I did.

 

[TundraOnKings]

IIRC, are you overseas with somewhat of a smaller track layout? Both the tracks I frequent are 1.5 MI and 2.0+ miles long, 11 corners flat for one, 14 corners banked on the other, respectively…the shorter track has 2 straights, IIRC the Mustang was 130MPH/140MPH on the shorter track, and then 110-120MPH, (but more frequent 100+mph spurts) on the longer track. If you aren’t hitting those high MPH consistently on track, cooling shouldn’t be an issue. But it was for me.
The longer more technical track was much more taxing on the Mustang (vs the 911S)…it really worked its ass off and I just could not keep it on track like I wanted to after all the external coolers (30/40 min sessions consistently like my Porsche track friend). At some point, I had to cut my losses. I had purchased a brand new $50K S550 car, dumped around $20K into it after coolers, brakes, chassis bracing, Wheels-tires… and it was still not staying on track like my buddies in Porsches that cost less.
Now, I will be selling it at a loss of probably close to $30K, and realize I just should’ve put that extra $30K into a 911.
And I’m not saying the S550 isn’t a great car, I still love it, which is why I haven’t sold it, but it just hasn’t fit the need for me and exactly what I needed it for (track car).
Then there’s the Porsche argument…why did you buy a $XXX.XX 911S for track, when you should’ve bought a $XXXX.XX 911 GT3RS!?!? I personally feel I’ve found the sweet spot. My current 992 911S car is capable of staying on track as long as I’d ever imagined, and can easily keep up with cars 2-3X the cost. Perfect. :-)

 

[TundraOnKings]

Yeah, that’s a small track. We’ll hit your max speed 4-7 times on our tracks, much more taxing on the cars cooling systems and brakes…I went through the stock rotors on the S550’s, blew through Baer, and finally landed on Steeda 2-pc rotors with R10’s and R12’s (1 season). The Mustang was so heavy it really ate through components quick. Highly recommend R10/R12 and Steeda’s for the S550.
On the 911S I’m on 5 heavy track days of Ferodo DS3.12’s pads and 7 track days on stock rotors. Pretty impressive, for stock! Giro’s go on next.
I tracked the Supra 3.0, and my track 911 buddy owns the 2023 M2 (as well as a 2022 M240I) they are most definitely cool cars, but still a different level than a new 992 911S and definitely not “much faster”….time attack, they are slower…and cheaper, yes.
Again, they can’t stay on track..and they don’t have an engine sitting over the rear axle...corner exit just does not equate. I just passed up an M3 allocation, as well as an M2 allocation. I was on the list for 1.5 years.
They just aren’t track cars bottom line. They are a good blend of track-capable, + daily if you can’t do both, but they are not perfect on either end.

And yes, I agree! That GT350 was pushing 100+ more HP than me, absolutely amazing!!!! He did pull slightly on the straights as you could see, but it was a full blown race car that cost 2 X over what my 911 costs. It showed up double-stacked under another GT350 in a race trailer. The driver came out in a full blown sweat. I joked and told him I haul my kids in the back of my 911 and also had the air conditioned seats on while on track LOL.
If you watch my passenger mirror after I pass him, he very quickly could not keep up. I was 3 seconds + after passing him first lap, and then kept distancing.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Yeah, you got a shit ton of laps out of your components! That’s great!
Steeda 2pc or Girodisc will save you $$ in the end I bet.
I’m not sure how much you’d notice a performance difference though, since you aren’t coming from a high MPH brake point, unfortunately. The Steeda’s and R12’s probably gained me 2-3 seconds on a 1:30 track because I could go so much deeper into the braking zones (2/3 of them). So much more confidence when you’re at 140+MPH, which equivalents in a few seconds. On a lower speed track I’m not sure they’d make sense.
And yep, start running wider tires and taxing the system, and the system will remind you lol.

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